Hunting flashlights in a budget with certain specifications ?

You could of purchased the Convoy C8+ using the Osram CULPM1, Ramping driver. This gave me 1002 meters but I reduce rating by 50 meters in case it’s reading too high. I also get 1300 lumens using a Samsung 30Q. This would of saved you money

Hey Rat…

After I finish the two beta hosts and test them some in the field, I’ll have a better idea of the final “product” :smiley: I would be happy to put you on the list after proving (I hope) the concept.

But as you can see here… Funtastic already has it (and it’s looking solid so far!!!), so you may contact him if you want something faster. I think he’s getting into the FET switching also, but that is also something I can do after one has the host. *note: Convoy is going through a thread change on many existing light models and so we have to be careful with tail switches matching the host too.

I’m going for using off-the-shelf scope mount rings (using shims for fit) for mounting these lights and so I’d need to know if a buyer wants the light with or without rigs (and the height of the rings). I’m guessing many will want to DYI on mounting. While mounting to an AR15 is easier, the traditional rifle needs the light mounted to the scope itself; either using mounts that attach to the scope body (BETWEEN the scope rings holding the scope) OR using the specialty scope rings (with the rail tops built into the top caps- stacking the light above the scope itself- which I prefer). I really like TWO mount points and one easily runs out of room for the mounts that attach between the scope rings holding the scope- few scopes have enough room.

I don’t even have the hosts in yet and so it wouldn’t be prudent to quote anything yet :wink: But it’s basically the host, spare tail switch, FET circuit, pressure switch and my time to build/test. I have a few “pro staffers” who will also “test” these betas for me (so I won’t get them back). But given they like them I’m hoping for orders this March or so and then I hope to have everything specified and the idea “locked down” (* with more hosts ordered by then).

I plan to get it firmed up by mid-Feb and build more in March. Kansas just changed it’s laws to allow lights for Coyote hunting and so I’m planning to sell a few locally for this spring to hunters too. But by then… I’ll know more and can maybe sell some out of the US.

I also have a beta Convoy S21b using this emitter (also without thermal limiting) that may or may not MELT and that too will be tested here hopefully next month!

I don’t ship out of New Zealand. I’d find it difficult to sort out warranties when postage to and from Aus cost a wee bit. I don’t make a lot on each product so it could be a risk.

Many warranty claims are for silly things, the last guy swore it was a faulty torch upon receiving, turns out he didn’t realize the tail cap had to be screwed on all the way lol. Another was just dirty threads causing a poor connection, gave instructions on how to clean but the customer just wanted me to do it. I then have to cover the return shipping cost back to the customer.

I received my sample from NiteSun, but not sure I like the beam focusing into a small square. The Osram CULPM1 has a range of over 1300m in the HT12 though. I think some spill is more useful

Hey Funtastic…

The nitesun is an unknown brand to me… but that HT12 looks “interesting”.

I am sorry I assumed NZ to Australia would be an “easy” thing to do… just trying to help out! But as a dealer I understand your need to keep things manageable… and I’m sure that means margins need to be thin to compete while trying to meet the market you serve.

That said… I also plan to serve the US Midwest market here in the USA. But if given time… I’d like to help out any BLF’er with the understanding that in some cases I can only deliver what is “doable” while also trying to keep pricing competetive but customer satisfaction also GOOD. And I KNOW that is often a hard trick :smiley:

So Rat… I am HAPPY to give ANY info to you you might use OR to later sell a light I’ve tested and can be assured you will BE HAPPY with! I feel that is exactly Funtastic’s concern here too.

This is a cutting edge light in some ways and I think both Funtastic (and myself) would just like to NOT get in a position where you were not happy. That said… I am willing to keep the channel open here as I work on what I hope will be a light I’m proud to sell.

Perhaps Funtastic might wish to abstain for now, but I have to respect his wishes. AND… I’ll remind everyone here this is HIS idea he has been ALL to kind to share with me. So for now let’s stay in touch and when I have something I’ll share it with Funtastic (and you, Rat) for sure… and I’d hope we can help Rat (and other BLF’ers) here as we go into 2021!

Cheers All!

ps. great review in this C8+ Funtanstic!!!

how much current are feeding that c8??

Using a fet driver and the Samsung 30Q I get 7.4A which is perfectly fine using that led.

I use dual springs too.

@zappaman - I use button top 30Q’s so the positive spring doesn’t dent the flat top. I’ve been thinking about using rubber hose to stop the battery smashing into the springs. You’d use a large enough diameter to sit over the spring or screw down over it

I have a own host with the same reflector of olight javelot but very much better heat sink, i feel i can got better narrow beam using that led than one hpl hi.

The fet drivers are home made or i can got in some stores in china in bulk?

Because I use berylium springs to have a perfect current transference holding the elasticity of a standar spring of steel. And theys let to pass the same current than to use a direct wire to the battery, because i tested with direct drive the xpl hi and never pass of 3.9-4.3 ah at the tail (yet using 26650 cells) ¿that feet drivers manage the current in other way to let pass more current at the leds, or is only a subject of unprotected and high discharge cells?.
I use board with 10x7135 and i am so far away of that currents, 3.5-4ah is the current on tail ( i understand the limits of current of 10x7135 driver), but with direct drive never got more than that too. ¿I am lossing something about that feet drivers? Javelot give 5ah in turbo mode, but use 2 cells driver, my model is single cell for a design decition. But that c8 pushing 7ah at one more smaller led than xpl hi, leave me perplex.

Ok, I can’t understand a big part of the text since English is not my main language…
But from what I understand here you just use Simon’s Convoy C8 host to build your custom flashlight.

What is good here it is that is cheap.
What is bad here it is a looooot of current and small runtime.
7.4A that is roughly a 20 min of usage from 30Q, so someone who need a bigger runtime he need to carry 5 cells with him.
If you want to run a light for 2-3 min for any reason it is not possible since that will be a very difficult for LED to handle since almost 8 amps in that small 45mm head.
Must build your own FET remote switch ( on the side that I did not understand about it ), otherwise no remote switch.
And finally it will not be eaven close to Maxtoch Sniper M24 that I mention in first post in therms of visibility at greater distances.

Only good thing that I see here it is price, nothing more from what I can understand and correct me if I’m in wrong.

So I found it HERE already with that setup.

It says 4800 mA and 1100 lumens, this is much more realistic that can have a longer runtime and cooler head, but it is not what I’m looking for…

Maybe a Trustfire T70 will be a good solution that is about 1500 lumens from what I search for… Manufacturers will never be clear to me, they made first mode ultra bright, brighter than it need to be, and second too low… from here example 2300 lumens then only 600… that 2300 is too bright and that 600 is low…

btw. Nitesun is not a unknown brand they are ‘’extension’’ or sister company with much more known Brinyte.

NO, i not use a c8 for the possible mod. I produced OEM a host down my own ideas about a flashlight for hunting should be.
Have a lot of fins exactly in the neck where is located the led. The flashlight can work in continous at 3.8ah without any posible damage ( the comercial similar models what i tested have the turbo mode like a accesory because thats flashlights cant hold the mode “turbo” for more than a couple of minutes without damages.

The only thing at favor for the most of theys, normally have cut/off on the driver by heat exess) My model only get a bit warm the body, no more than that and i sold until the moment 400 units since 3 years, more than the needed time to find problems with burned leds if the heat sink would be not enough.

I use xpl hi to asemble, but i am thinking in a upgrade to osram models with more current, to get more lux, or the same xpl-hi but with a new driver to get more current if are possible. Search on the web “linterna Halcon” and you got images of my model.

I am entusiast of this world of modding flashlights but ever apply commoun sense, i not have interest in mods only to take a pic with the camera, my mods need to work inclusive when users abuse of the flashlights, because i sold with 1 year of guarantee and if i design bad something, later in pay the price in spare parts and time doing the services.

About the t70 of trustfire, i took a sample ( i was customer in bulk of the brand by several years) but the driver was setted to 50 watts on turbo, and only 10 or 12 (i not remember well) in the next mode. The model cant to turn on if the batterys not were at full charge, and when i left the model in hands of a customer ( what according to his words he only would use the model to the shoot moment) to test if he liked the model, come at the 2 months with the driver burned.

I produce OEM with trustfire some models several years earlier, but this time i not had intention to explaning all the defects on the model to fix, because i had a working model “bullet proof” and according to my way to see the things, a weapon flashlight, need to be powerfull but compact, two cells models dont fit in that first premise.

But i am here viewing advices about that possibles feet drivers, and if need yes or yes batterys unprotected because i use only trustfire 3400 MAH and thats cells give around 25watts by cell not much more than that before the PCB limits the current, but i would like to achieve 5ah in the model.

I only sell these as gun mounted lights for lining up a shot, so they’re only in use approx 30 seconds at a time. Please also know that the ramping driver Convoy sell also allows you to set any lumen value to the first and second levels. If someone needs longer runtime, they can set a lower brightness level, same for every other flashlight out there that’s using high output.

Runtime test at 7.4A is 2 minutes 20 seconds until 50°C is reached. That was tested at 20°C room temp, outside would give a longer run.

These aren’t for searching animals, I use the Convoy L21A with Osram CULPM1 for longer runtime or even the Astrolux FT03 (SST40)

I’m building these for sale at extremely low prices which makes them very attractive in today’s market. The Maxtoch Sniper M24 has a wider beam but not much gain in range, it’s also MUCH more expensive.

It all comes down to what you’re buying it for.

My Convoy C8+ build with the CULPM1 measured 952m, that’s incredible for the size. Keep in mind that the Maxtoch size and weight are much greater, not everyone wants that extra weight on top of their scopes.

Including batteries

Convoy C8+ - 190g
Maxtoch Sniper M24 - 374g - I’ve talked with hunters who say that’s too heavy on many scopes with a higher caliber.

You mean 3.8 Amps, not Ah

Lexel has the FET PCBs made up in a nifty kit HERE

You need to use your existing tail cap and replace your clicky switch with this PCB. You also need (any size) two conductor wire (I usually just use the same THIN wire and rear cover that comes with most pressure switches) to build this final tail switch that “triggers” the FET. It’s just open/closed (off/on).

So on your host, your driver needs a 100% ON mode (or turbo from memory can work if your light has it AND you don’t change mode by accident). :smiley:

Convoy has a new ramping driver with the 100% on mode from some emitter/light combos (as well as Biscotti drivers which work too with MOST emitters). But you may need to assemble some parts (like the FET pressure switch) depending on the host. Simon is VERY good at finding (and sometimes making you) whatever config you want IF you KNOW what you want— but only on some lights.

I am currently modding S2, S21b, and C8 hosts for gun lights. The many possible driver-to-emitter/FET configs can get very complicated fast. Convoy (Simon) is the only maker who I was able to work with and I am VERY happy with Simon. I hope to run all these lights on guns by this March 2021.

Still Beta versions here, but I’m feeling good about these designs. I will happily share them here at BLF with anyone who asks (PM is best)… BUT I’d like to finish testing before offering a lot of details to anyone early on. So stay tuned :wink:

the problems come when you says 30 seconds and for any reason the hunter accidentally turn on the flashlight (inside a bag by example) or only by lack of commoun sense, or because his soon, take the light to play, or because not have any other flashlight at hand for one X situation , or because try to show the model to other to do comparisons, etc.

And at the end is your word vs the word of the “inocent” customer that says he ever rispected the 30 seconds of run….

i dont know exactly in what way the customer what received to “test” the k70 burned the driver in two months of sporadic useage according to his words, but he said i only turn on the flashlight for the shoot moments…i cant trust so much in that words, later of 13 years of seing humans acting like animals with delicate goods.
By that, i cant to push so much the limits trusting in the customers good judgement. May be in your country the hunters are more honests, here is hard to support the lies in ur face and smile paciently…

And 100% in accord, some hunters are very exigents with the maximum weight of a weapon mounted flashlight, all the time demands more range, with less size, like if the miracles are being possibles all the time, or the leds increase his power and efficience like the computers.

The most of theys need a tripod to shoot at 100 meters, but demands flashlights to see until 500m the preys (and when that happens, cry because the animals run when see the strong light).

And full credit goes to Funtastic above for the C8+ design I am using (* adding my FET pressure switch)!

And as he correctly states above: run times are short when using these for making the shot AFTER finding the animal using other means (I prefer a simple night vision monocular). Also… AFTER the shot is made, you want to use another light and/or headlamp to find the kill.

Last: There are VERY few hunting scenarios where you need more than 15 seconds of light really. But at 2 1/2 minutes of FULL output (at 50C) this C8+ has more than enough run time for SEVERAL hunts before charging :stuck_out_tongue:

AND… I AM one of those hunters.

My AR15 6.8SPC weights about 7 lbs total with a 10 round clip loaded with 6-7 shells— before the added weight of the light. That rifle ONLY has an effective range of about 250 yards (for feral hogs I hunt with it). So my light for THAT rifle is a modified C8F (Sofirn triple) with lots of spill/flood as I need to see WHERE several pigs are running and lead shots on pigs running 30mph! Total time on that hunt might go 30 seconds if lots of hogs stop to look back :wink: THAT light adds less than a lb. and mounts down to the side of the rifle. So the shooting sticks (fast adjusting bi-pod) I use on those hunts set right behind the light and don’t interfere with gun or my view through the scope OR red dot.

But for coyote hunting at 600 yards— this C8+ is the light for that hunt as it’s beam will widened up enough at LONGER distances to get an effectively WIDER view for acquiring and shooting a coyote in most cases. Total time on that hunt is usually 5-15 seconds. And at that distance, the coyote needs to be standing still for an ethical kill. But if a coyote “pops” out at 200 yards, the C8+ should have a wide enough beam to allow for a lead on a running shot in a clear field (where I hunt them here in Kansas, USA). Although I shoot from a sturdy base (usually prone or using short sticks), adding a big light would make it burdensome as I am usually not sitting in a blind sipping whiskey but out stalking using night vision where I have to “nest” down to prep for that long of a shot.

I’m saying you only need up to 30 seconds to shoot an animal. I also said 2 minutes 20 seconds before it reaches 50°C . Flashlights can usually handle 90-110°C before the heat damages the components.

I include my own user manual for my customers so they clearly know how long it should be used for at a time. You can unscrew the tail cap slightly to stop the light turning on in a bag or pocket.

If you don’t like the sound of this flashlight, then you’re most welcome to build your own that suits your use.

I think every single high powered flashlight takes common sense. No one should ever rely on a driver to step down at X temperature, always need to be careful.

If someone does kill the flashlight, then it’s very cheap to fix, I’m not worried in the slightest.

I have many other models that have temperature protection if customers prefer it but for the absolute max performance, a fet driver is needed. I could use a different driver for a higher price but I’m happy with these.

i dont was atacking your design, i only explaining the reasons because here in my country i cant sell flashlights with a manual of useage waiting they will rispect the manual… I used to sell a searchlight very popular on aliaba. was a model setted by the factory at 4 watts, the only heat sink were the cheap aluminum reflector.

Well… i do holes in the plastic shell for let the air to pass at the reflector, changed the leds for original of cree and seted the driver to 8-9 watts. I give manuals with each searchlight, i explained in person when customers bought the model directly in my store, i explained to all my resellers in the rest of the country and in my facebook page the useage could be 2 minutes on/1 minute off to avoid problems of extra heating.
I sold 2400 of that searchlights in total, in the first year i sold aprox 1000 units, well… i forced to change the led at ones 300-400 units in that first year, because dont mater what said the manual, me, the resellers ( in any cases the resellers were the first to doing wrong the things) or my advices in the fan page.

The customers was so happiest with a run time of 2.5 hours, and with the excuse of a long trip the begined to demand extra battery packs…
Because in that times no one flashlight were capable to achieve the range of a searchlight, and the cost were “enough cheap” they used the searchlight for hunt, but also for vigilance work, for home external ilumination in any cases, for asistance light when they slaugthered the pigs in the field, for childrens toy… and a large etc…

At the end of that 2400 units i changed the leds in a 6 year period at least at 1600 units. Not was funny…and less when theys talked (instead i was doing the change of the led) about all the things what they used to do with the searchlight.

I learned the lesson that time, today when i sent to produce a flashlight from zero, not only need to hold the recomended useage, need to hold any bad posible madness of the users.

Because when they spend around 100 dollars in one flashlight expect the model need to last 3 or 4 times than other for the half of the price.

Not is a normal reasoning, but is the situation what i live. I can sell flashlights at proof of all, and with guarante dont matter if they seek the rules in the manual, or not, or i can sit quiet, to see like they order flashlights from chinese or USA stores at the half of the third part of my price ( the cheap ones models of course).

By all that i was tryng to see the posibility of to up the current 1A and to use a new one model of led, ( and where got the drivers for such task) not much more, much more could be a problem in forward periods for me personal situation of market.

The normal situation would be the yours, yous says “dont turn on the light for more than 30 seconds” and customers seek the rules. Here is third world, if the people would seek the rules would be in better countrys :).

I’ll get back to your PM when I’ve got all my orders done.

I just wanted to make note to not bypass the driver spring and leave Convoy’s high current spring as is. I just received my clamp meter and get 7.9A at turn on with a Samsung 30Q. 7.9A is still well within the limit of 10A that Osram give on their datasheet for short bursts. Tom E over on another thread achieves peak output at 9A and Djozz also noted his achieved max at 9A, so no issues there. If you bypass the driver spring you may push it too hard.

I install dual springs on the tail end though to stop too much battery movement with recoil.





this has potential.
please update
when appropriate.