These days, might as well go 18350. Just a tad larger but greater mAh. But for standard (non-rechargeable) cells, can’t beat 16340 CR123A for shelf life.
actually, the ones with long shelf life are not 16340 (rechargeable) but CR123A - (not rechargeable but ’’lithium primaries”), available at any drug store or walmart
they will last 15 years sometimes, shelf life i mean
usually they are rated at least 10
3.3v max instead of 4.2 though
xtar lights could handle either
if, on installing a new cell, if it detected over 4V , it would assume rechargeable, and cut off when volts got down to 3.0
if it detected 3.2V, it would assume not rechargeable, and let the cell go down to 0V.
As the Jetbeams RRTs (in the different variations they had), I guess so. Probably not so “fancy” as the ramping FWs we have now, but surely nice lights
I’m still on the will to mod my Nitecore D10 in a similar way as CK did to his :innocent:
Im new to these piston drives and have been reading a lot of old threads about them
the McGizmo piston drive lights just had 2 modes iirc
he had some sort of relationship with Sysmax (parent of NiteEye, Jetbeam, Sunwayman, and Nitecore) that gave them access to the PD design, with Don’s blessings, afaik
then Nitecore produced some AA and CR123 lights with Piston Drives and Ramping Drivers:
the D10 and EX10
next Nitecore came out with an SP model, coinciding with version 11 firmware. These are Piston Drive, but only 3 mode lights, non ramping
then came the one I posted, version 11.2, which brought back the Ramping UI from version 10, with a couple other additions to the UI from off, giving shortcuts to Strobe and SOS. These blinky shortcuts only work from off. The same shortcuts have different functions from ON… The UI is a bit complex, if we discuss the multiclick features… but the basic, click on, hold to ramp, click off, is pretty easy to grasp, if not to implement. The switch can be finnicky, depends partly on the length of the battery being used… which Im still learning about
So far Ive figured out that if I want to use a cell longer than 34mm, such as typical protected 16340, it helps to loosen the head 1/3 of a turn (1/4 turn less than the amount needed for physical lockout), in order to make the button action easier and more reliable when multiclicking.
Is this one a battery killer too? I remember some of these had a very high parasitic drain, killing batteries in a day or two? Only thing that kept me from buying one.
Revision 11.2 fixed the parasitic drain. This R5 model has an XP-G, which means easy N219b moddable… likely to be a direct reflow to stock mcpcb… (have not opened mine yet).
The 11.2 model is what people in the know were swapping into the earlier hosts… it has the most of the best features…
I encourage you to pick one up and share your parasitic drain test results… I have not learned to do that yet… and may not own the right meter… or I would check.
They are being liquidated by Andrew and Amanda on Ebay for $35
they are brand new and come in a special box
otoh, yes, Im burning through a couple 16340 batteries a day playing with this thing… lol
Its a little pocket rocket, with a shortcut to maximum…
no LVP btw… and it is sensitive to battery length… Im finding it helps to loosen the head a little, to get the switch to feel less resistant when using protected 16340… I think it would benefit from a 0.5mm shim, I hope you make some. A trit slot in the piston would be great too… hint hint…
meanwhile a bit of glow tape does not interfere with tailstanding:
Previously I had a red L4P tail switch under a red boot on this V11R. I asked Neven for the lowest brightness. It was practical in that it wasn’t so bright in the middle of the night but since I don’t really use this as a bedside torch I swapped the tail switch for an orange tail switch from BG. It’s heaps bright. I still can’t see myself using this light much but it looks cool Like a glowing ember…
First pic is no light. I took several pics to try and get the right colour that I see.
I think this following pic is the closest match to what I see