I built a light using a special 95 CRI emitter called FL7018R

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
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I used DDH-M0B, XiangNan 6v5a boost driver and a very special emitter to build a light. It’s the 2nd DIY light I built for myself.
The emitter is called “FL7018R”, which is a 95 CRI 6v7070 emitter with relatively high efficiency and very rosy tint (the best Ive ever seen).
The emitters are from dark_dreamer. He did some simple tests of its efficiency:
1a 724lm

5a 3090lm

9a 4870lm

15a 6650lm

Here are some infos about the emitter.

C5066FFD26C49512C99AEAF8A9268FE8_副本
C5066FFD26C49512C99AEAF8A9268FE8_副本1356×512 141 KB

Due to the limit for new users I can only post one image here. If anyone gets interested, I can upload some beam shots and CRI comparisons

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We’re very glad to have you here, SlaveRatYj!

01 Scarlett Johansson
01 Scarlett Johansson2000×1181 193 KB

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Looks oddly similar to the FFL707A. Do you know the difference?

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Higher efficiency but a little bit lower CRI

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This is a very impressive emitter. Based on the color report you posted, the CRI (including R9 and R12) is not lower than any of the other R9080 emitters, up to sample variance. So it’s essentially just a higher efficacy/efficiency version of the FFL707A, assuming equal forward voltage across all currents.

Part of the rosy tint comes from the tall blue spike, which is actually detrimental to color rendering. A spectrum with a shorter blue spike and a shallower cyan dip is preferable.

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Is there an explanation in layman’s terms for why an increase in blue color would cause the beam to look rosy?

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Pink = Red + Blue, therefore adding either red or blue makes the beam drift toward pink. Adding blue makes a more noticeable shift toward pink because royal blue is more visible than deep red.

Alternatively, examine the CIE 1931 color space, and note that royal blue is to the bottom-left corner. It is clear that for any point on the BBL, mixing with royal blue (represented as a weighted average between that point and royal blue point) pulls it under.

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