iKTCH Range Hood LED Downlight Upgrade?

Hello all,

I just spent the weekend installing an island range hood for my better half. After many trials and tribulations, it’s finally in place and working. Except for one problem. Despite being advertised as providing “bright lighting,” the light output is laughable. It’s almost unusable for cooking. I’m real deep into the sunk-cost fallicy in both labor and cost so I’d love to find a solution.

The four LED modules are listed as 12v 3w in the manual. Inside they contain a 1mm thick by 48mm round aluminum board with 8x 5730 LEDs. It’s labeled with part number SR-5730-4S2P. On the back side is a 20x40x3mm solid aluminum heatsink and some thermal compound.

One thing to note, the arrangement of the 8 of the leds are grouped in the very center of the 48mm board to fit inside the 26mm cone opening of the housing, so many of the 6w and 9w boards I found won’t work due to the LEDs being placed all over the board.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Hit amazon and search for “12v halogen led replacement”.

A 50W equivalent MR16 (MRanything, really) would probably fit, and runs off 12V.

Just how much you’d want to fold, spindle, and mutilate, is up to you.

If you like the look of the light, you’d either have to find a similar connector, or snip’n’solder to the existing wires.

This is exactly what I did, but I had to install a driver too, no hassle though. What I did was solder one of those small 2 pin connectors (off a PC cable which connects fans to mb) on the end, then plug the mr16 replacements into those, worked fine. Those cob ones don’t last long though I think I replaced mine several times but they are so cheap it fine after a year or two.
This link should go to a vast array of them, some that may simply replace it with no messing around like I did.

Thanks! I ended up ordering:


Now I just have to figure out how to mount them in a way that doesn’t look too janky. It remains to be seen if I’ll need to use a rotary tool on the bulb to remove the parts and make them fit in the existing housing or if I can figure a way to use the bulbs intact.

Thanks. AliExpress was my first thought. I spent a few hours looking through just the LED boards with no luck. Your search terms showed many drop in replacements but unfortunately they were all less than 3w. It seems like the higher wattage parts all use mains voltage.

Before you fit them, double check it’s outputting 12v. Mine weren’t, then again they were halogen.
The cable is 600v rated - maybe overkill for 12v so worth checking it’s not mains voltage. If it isn’t them you’ll need some 12v drivers too.

It’s actually 10.5v at the maximum setting and 9.9v at the minimum setting. Could this indicate there’s something wrong with the control board, since it’s not outputting the full 12v or is this normal for constant current drivers?

That’s certainly odd.

Just from the writing on the LED board it looks like 8 5730 emitters in 4S2P configuration with a 1Ω ballast resistor.

So at 10V that’s only 2.5V per chip. That’s barely even turning on. No wonder it’s so dim.

What about just directly connecting the bulb to the connector, see how bright it gets?

When I read the number for 5730 chips I was surprised there wasn’t enough light. That would explain it.

Have you considered using a circular chip-on-board array instead of discrete LEDs? They come in various dimensions. There are versions using 12V DC and some driven directly by 110V AC. Many of the ceiling lights (can lights) now use COBs as a light source.

Confirmed. Mystery solved. Looks like the control board needs an RMA.

I just hooked up one of the LED boards to my lab bench supply. At 12.0v it pulls 2.5w and is probably 3-4x as bright as when installed in the hood. When I drop the bench supply down to the 10.5v hood is supplying, it only pulls 0.21w!

Thank you all.


RMA for the control board is in progress.

In the meantime I decided to hook up the bulbs I ordered on Amazon and boy are they bright. I’m as confused as ever now though because when at least one is connected, the voltage drops to 5v and there’s an audible high pitched whine. The frequency of the sound changes with the brightness setting. At max brightness it’s 8062 Hz and at minimum it’s 13688 Hz. Probably worth noting that the control board ramps the brightness up to full when turned on and ramps down zero when turned off.

I’m not getting a warm fuzzy about leaving it hooked up like this. What do you guys think? Could it be that there’s no series resistor? I noticed the new bulbs don’t care about polarity, not sure if that’s a factor.

Here’s a screenshot of the sound waveform/waterfall:

Hm? What drops (presumably from 12V or whatever) to 5V? Output from the driver board?

If you’re talking about hooking up the bulbs to any supply, yeah, they don’t care about voltage, as they’re meant to emulate regular hotwire bulbs. Can be 12VDC from a battery or regulated supply, or 12VAC direct from a transformer. Both systems are used for those bulbs.

High-pitched whine can be from an internal driver that can do dimming, etc.

Yes, this is all refering to being connected to the output of the factory range hood sockets. So if I have only original modules hooked up, the voltage across it and on all sockets is 10.5v. When I connect the Amazon bulb to any socket, all sockets drop to 5v, including the one with the original LED module.