Those cheap 100W COB leds costs only a few dollars and can deliver around 8000 lumens
The main thing is a true 33V 3A driver costs about 20$ so they put a 33V 600mA in there that costs only a few dollars to make the light work and sell cheap to people dont know its a fake driver
A proper passive heatsink for 100W will cost also like >10$ or an active with fan 5$
LOL
The 50W drivers I found are barely bigger than the chips themselves… :person_facepalming:
I purchased a DC/DC boost converter rated 30V/150W and which can be powered by 12V source, I hope it can delivery at least 100W (but I paid 7$ for it… )
I think relying on a 12V source is easier for designing than on these unusual 30V power sources, which I can’t even find in real shops here in Italy (max 24V).
The “pop can” lights usually called Skyray King but also branded Securitying and others. There are similar more expensive and better made lights by Nitecore etc. I see Xlightfire also do versions with the cells in a long tube rather than a pop can.
They are interesting and sometimes useful. I’ve got a 3 LED version. It lights up the whole back yard if I need to. I think it lasts about 40 minutes on 4 good 18650s, but I only use it for a couple of minutes a time. It gets warm. I haven’t tried leaving it on for more than a few minutes.
There are loads of reviews on these on Youtube, some of them by people who seem to know what they are talking about. Also people have done mods and there are Youtube videos of those. There are also reviews and threads on here.
I thought this one was interesting comparing the 3X version with the 10X version.
The 10X version looks much more floody, but I don’t get the impression it puts out much more light. Diminishing returns with each added LED, I’d say. If the LEDs in the 10X version were run as hard as those in the 3X version, it would be over three times the heat, which I doubt the design would be good for, and the run time would be down to a few minutes. You’d also have to be careful about the batteries you used.
The brightest single cell / single emitter light I own is the Imalent DN70. That thing packs a serious punch and holds its own quite well against a TN36 with multi emitters and 4 x 18650’s.
if almost 4000 lumens in a pocket sized light isn’t enough I dont know what is!
One in one hand, one in the other…the DN70 puts out a bucket load of light for such a small light. I dont care if they claim 1000 lumens or 10’000 lumens by EYE it is very bright and lights up the entire garden and any other area I’ve tested it in.
Sure I could buy a light just so it’s numbers are better than everything else but this is one of my usable lights that actually is very usable apart from its rubbish power switch!
As I understand it the original Sky Ray King has a driver limiting to 7.5A, so 2.5A per LED for three LEDs and so a credible claim of over 2,000 lumens, assuming they are not using substandard/fake LEds.
They use the same controller for greater numbers of LEDs, so the 7.5A is spread over more LEDs and you get nothing like a straight line increase in output per LED. To do that you’d have to increase the current and have problems with heat dissipation which the design wasn’t intended to cope with, and problems with batteries and contacts.
Then you have factories wanting to turn out products which will appeal, and more LEDs is better as a sales feature. Also, the more LEds, the greater the temptation to use cheap substitutes.
Then you have branding operations and sellers who don’t know anything about what they sell and don’t care. They are none too scrupulous anyway, and they are happy to sell 30,000 lumen flashlights and 5,000 mAh 18650 batteries (with an actual capacity of about 500 mAh) to go in them.
isnt that a 1000 or so lumen emitter topped out ?
so 10,000 lumens would be pushing it
why did they stop at 1/4 million lumens?
they should of just rounded it off to an even million while they were telling an out right lie !
The first batch of DN70 put out about 3000-3200 lumen for about 2 min 10 sec before step down. The second batch had about 3800 lumen and stepped down at 1 min 50 sec I believe. So that model light is accurate. Their DT70 is rated at 16,000, but actually did 14,000 or so. So Imalent is pretty close to their ratings. I’m can’t recommend the brand, though.
No, you’ve got that wrong. The limitation is not in the battery, it is in the cooling.
For example, the Imalent DN70 mentioned above will put out 3800 lumen for about 1 and a half minutes, or a bit more. This is due to temperature build up. It pulls about 10 to 11 amps from the battery and the xhp70 puts out about 40 watts. The heat builds up fast in the small head of the flashlight. If it did not have thermal protection to reduce the output it would over heat, burn up the electronics inside and maybe scald your hand.
Obviously they would face lawsuits and such. So they build in protection circuits. The lights small size can only maintain 1000 lumen or less for indefinite amounts of time. But 1000 lumen lights dont sell, big lumen lights do, so they crank it up big time for short periods. You just need to be aware there are limitations.
For some people a small light that can be used on turbo for short durations is just fine. You use it at lower power for much longer times.
If you need long duration use at full power, you need a bigger light like an Convoy L6 that will do 3800 lumen for over an hour, until the battery runs down.
The Manker M34 does 8,000 lumen, but only for 30 seconds. It’s a tiny pocket light, though.
So the bottom line is to read reviews and tests so you know what your buying.
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