I think this is really bad. I think it means that the 14500 burns out the driver and you can’t use AA 1.5V anymore. I had this happen in a UF AA XM-L light.
Edit- my d25a xp-g2 still works with 1.2 V and has moon on low with 1.2 V
These L10C are IN STOCK and shipping! 
Orange is a very nice color and I was a skeptic about N219 too until I got one. A N219 L10 is my primary carry now
I wonder if I should hand these out at my next company sprint. Orange is the corporate color. I’m not personally a fan, but it’d go well with the official theme. I’d probably even get one for myself if it had the logo engraved on it.
Also, the grey and black ones I ordered are supposed to arrive in about 2-3 hours. Looking forward to it.
group buy! No harm in asking.
$15 Shipping to Europe is too high. Put it in a envelope and send it by usps firstclass mail. This should not be more than $7.50 including the effort.
Hey Jake, can you adjust the international shipping costs for us overseas buyers? You can send the light without box in a small padded envelope. I’m sure it will survive the journey if the light itself is tough. 
+1
I agree shipping could be better value, maybe, for example if I were to get an L10 off eBay from SBflashlights shipping to Europe would be around $10.
My package arrived. Here are some very quick first impressions / observations:
- The L10C is surprisingly long. Longest 1xAA light I have actually, just a hair longer than the T10T. It’s only a few millimeters shorter than my smallest 1x18650 light.
- The LED is a Nichia 219B and is a cooler tint than the 219A. I prefer the 219B’s 5000K-ish tint to the 219A’s 4500K-ish tint, so this is a good thing. Both have great CRI.
- The button seems to be a reverse-clicky. This is a good thing, because it means the user can switch modes while on with just a light tap.
- It doesn’t work as a twisty. Clicky-only, so no silent operation.
- The L10C head works on the L10, but the L10 head does not work on the L10C. The foam padding on the L10C is much much thinner.
- Both the head and the tail can be unscrewed, but the tail has only the clip and the button cover. The switch itself is in the main body. Since the clip and logo are on separate pieces, their relative alignment is pretty random. I haven’t tested water-tightness yet.
- The tail has a spring, so it won’t crush batteries any more.
- Output modes/levels and beam pattern seem identical to the L10, which is good since the L10 got those parts just right.
I was on the impression that it was a 219A. Guess that’s why being able to swap the heads would be a good thing but I wonder if there is a way to make the twisty head work with the clicky? Might be anodising on the threads making connection?
I’m a bit disappointed overall but will still get one … mainly for the output levels. I don’t mind the length as it suits the width of my hand better, like the Xeno E03 which is 97mm but much thicker. I have the 219A Xeno and had wished it had the output levels of the L10, so here it is, albeit a 219B. Having the switch in the body could mean a different (shorter) tail in a future revision … possibly
Group but for sure
How does it not work as a twisty, it doesnt turn off?
Does it come in the cool plastic box?
I put up a more detailed review of the L10C-219:
The foam pad on the older head makes it unable to turn on when attached to the newer body. The tail spring doesn’t have enough tension to compress the thicker foam pad, so the positive end of the battery never makes contact.
If the L10C’s button is “on”, loosening the head doesn’t turn the light off until it breaks contact entirely. The threads aren’t anodized and the foam pad at the head is thin enough that it only provides reverse polarity protection (doesn’t prevent the positive end from touching the driver).
If I loosen the head enough to turn the L10C off, the O-ring is exposed… and then if I simply tilt the light up and down, it’ll turn off and on due to gravity pressing the battery against the driver.
Yes, it still comes in the same little plastic box. No wasted packaging here.
you guys do realize that it says 219 B right in the OP description right?
Oh right, so stick a small disc magnet (or something conductive) into the hole inside the foam and it should work then?
Maybe. I haven’t tried. It might make the head stick out quite a bit, but I’m not sure. You could probably also remove the foam, but that might not be easily reversible.
Good lol, I use my three boxes to hold small drill bits, small end mills and small taps, single best feature, why more lights don’t come like that I’ll never understand.
Anything on a group buy deal?,… and cheaper shipping to Europe UK?.
Thank you BLF.
Yeah, this light seems like the better thing after sliced bread (or on par), why no love for a group buy thing to save something? Many would buy several I believe.
If I understand correctly, these are produced in relatively small batches as a custom item for SBFlashlights, then sold individually to customers. It might be hard to do an effective group buy unless we got a lot of people interested, enough to be larger than the normal batch size.
However, someone in China could perhaps buy a bunch and then sell them to people outside the US for lower prices due to the subsidized shipping there. I don’t know.