I was more thinking if it still gives 3a on single cell, it would be ok for my convoy l2 (26650) if I felt like running it shorty, most of the time I’d run it in two cell mode which is how its built now, yoy just usually seem to get a drop in current on these 1 or 2 cell drivers.
My LD29 2.8A outputs 2.8A until 3.60V cell input, I would assume something similar for that driver.
hikelite, is your ld-29 from intloutdoor, lck-led or fasttech? one place I wish to use this is in a defiant 3c, so it can use either 3c, 1 x 18650/26650 or 2 x 18650/26650 depending on spacer, I’ll be using a high cri xm-l2 in that one.
It's from IOS, bought a long time ago, about when they first showed up.
ah, well, hopefully this one will prove to be a decent sibling, I do like the ld series drivers.
I used the LD-29 from Fasttech in my DST. Works just fine on original fuel, as well as one or two Li-Ion cells.
I will note that it is not at full drive current for long on one Li-Ion cell or on the 3C cells, but still bright and it’s nice to have the fuel options.
After installing a chipped out Qlite that acted all weird, I installed the LD2C in my T10. It didnt work right either until I discovered a faulty tail switch. A new switch and it seems to work perfectly as far as mode switching goes. I just got this DMM and am just learning to use it, so let me know if any of these tailcap readings seem fishy.
Panasonic NCR18650A unprotected
Hi - 2.54A
Med - .810A
Low - .119A
Sanyo UR18650ZT protected
Hi - 2.06A
Med - .860A
Low - .170A
e-fest IMR 18650
Hi - 2.64A
Med - .800A
Low - .170A
e-fest IMR 2 X 18350
Hi - 1.75A
Med - .450A
Low - .170
Q: is there a rule when measuring current with 2 X cells?
Ouchy, those currents seem reasonable based on the cells used. Very similar to what I get from an LD29.
When is it that you need to double the reading when using 2 x cells? I know I read it somewhere. The 2 X 18350 IMR readings seem low to me.
You are measuring tailcap current. Multiply the tailcap current by the number of cells used to get a rough estimate of emitter current. In this case 1.75 x 2 = 3.5A.
I’d guess it’s closer to 3A and the additional power is wasted in resistance through the cells, wires, springs, etc.
Okay. Glad to know that. So it looks like the 2 X 18350 take the cake for an unknown runtime on Hi, whereas the Panasonic’s are probably best in the long run.
Ouchy you should see the current increase on two cells when they are at 4V for example and at 3.9V with any cells. SO the IMR will have a higher voltage on load, the driver will increase the current draw. I hope this makes sense.
The nicest thing about this driver is that there are no blinkies or strobes on any mode grouping. The mode group switching works very nicely. After ten seconds on high there will be a flash, click off, and then back on and you are in the next group. I haven’t experienced any odd behavior with this driver using either one cell or two.
- high
- high-low
- high-med-low
What could be nicer!
What could be nicer? How about a specific tap sequence rather than a timer-based window for the group change. Couldn't tell you the number of times I've been using a light with a driver that does it this way and needed to turn it off right when it's in that window to accept a group change, and had to choose between turning it off anyway and leaving it on so it's in a known mode next time I need it. No fun!
You shouldn't ever be able to accidentally switch it to the next group. Ever.
Yes cause most of the drivers are set to switch at 3 seconds, when maybe you are still undecided or the eyes aren't adjusted, none the less I had no problem with those at 3 seconds. At 10 seconds you shouldn't be an issue.
If you can come up with some even semi-plausible explanation for how you can be reasonably sure that some unexpected event where you absolutely must switch the light off will never occur when it's in that 10 second window instead of a 3 second window, I'm all ears.
I can't. Anyway as I wasy I never had a problem with those at 3 sec, even if those are too add all kind of blinkies. Still if you are on Medium or Low mode you can't accidentally change to another group.
A time-based window is always, sooner or later, going to catch you out. There are much better ways to do it. 'Not as bad as it could be' is not nearly the same thing as 'good'.
I have a driver by vestureofblood where to change groups, you have to half-press eight times in less than 2 seconds to change to the next group. I have never accidentally ended up in a different group when I didn't absolutely intend to.
I have a Streamlight TLR-1s (Weaver mount gun light) that has a semi-hidden strobe, you have to double tap, from 'off', in something crazy like under 1/10th second to get the strobe. To disable strobe entirely, you have to do a sequence of 12 taps in an incredibly short amount of time. I have never accidentally gotten strobe when I didn't want it, and I have never accidentally disabled the strobe mode.
I have a few of the 2-group 105Cs with the single blink in low mode to signal the group switch window, I end up changing groups when I didn't want to all the time. I tend to not use the lights with those drivers very often.
I also have one of those V10+ 5-group drivers that also does a single blink, that one too regularly ends up switching to the next group when I didn't mean to.
There are good ways to enable the group change, and bad ways. Anything using purely a timer-based signal after switch on is the bad way.
I was waiting for the fallout on mode group selection……
for me, it will be more than acceptable and for the type of light I intend to use it in, I don’t see on-off situations happening, this is destined for a 3c/1 or 2 18650/1 or 2 26650 light and a 1 or 2 18650/26650 thrower, not something you use for finding a keyhole.
I do see comfy chairs point though and I do want some of vesture of bloods adventure sport drivers for that reason.
As I said I had not problems with the time based. I also have a crazy click to disable enable strobe by Eagletac and it's indeed so safe that you can't do it unless you got the time to do it, so it never caught on to me. I do not think the pure timer-based it's bad or so bad, especially this on on the LD2C driver, but maybe you are / have been a police officer and have strict priorities. Still I am not saying that a certain sequence of taps is not good.