http://www.fasttech.com/products/1/10007006/1566300-ultrafire-mt-05s-1-cree-xm-l2-t6-2-group-3-2
the second one looks as if it has a more diffuse beam which more resembles a car headlight, i’m just thinking if i bought this how would i power it, i won’t buy an ultrafire battery pack so i would have to make a waterproof carrier that holds a 2s 18650
Also notice the 8000-8500k xm-l2, is this a typo?
I was think to buy additional light for my motorcycle…
2nd one has TIR optic and beam similar to automotive headlight beam.
Is that black cover is plastic or aluminum ?
I think second one is not a tir, It seems to use a wide lens like thisBRrRPIDi4Q~~60_57.JPG)
Im using one of those lenses in a c8 for my bike. the beam is wide, so i use it when im on the road, ro avoid blinding upcoming traffic
these lights you linked are nice and cheap bort. I made battery packs myself just with a carrier, and using one of the ends of this cable to connect it to the light
I like the fact that the main LED has three CONSTANT modes! Big questions now. PWM frequency? Mode seperation? (typical 10, 50 100%? Ewww!)
PWM is specially annoying in a bike, i don’t care for a handheld light, but in the bike i hate it.
For the modes, id love to have only hi and low just like a car, i don’t like to cycle through 3 or 4 modes (or even 3+strobe in one of my lights) modes when riding
Given its small size, if this really is driven @2.8A, its probably going to overheat very quickly.
I wouldn’t worry about over heating it… as you ride, the wind will cool it off 
Actually, I would worry. As a very experienced night-time bike rider who has tested dozens of flashlights on my handlebars, this will run very hot if driven to spec. It simply lacks the necessary amount of surface area to exchange heat @2.8A driven.
did you see the holes on the side? it is not just for looks, it can efficiently disperse the heat much faster than a closed ones, especially when you’re moving on the bike
as you moves the wind cool the pill, so the heat exchange is very excellent 
it increases the surface with the holes, because you’ll have dissipation from the outer and inner surface of the body
Go for it then. Its far to small, regardless of how many holes of tiny little cooling plates they hide behind it. If it were twice the size (double the surface area) and assuming a good thermal path design from the emitter to the housing, it would still run hot at 2.8A. It might do well in medium mode if not driven to hard, but dont expect it to dissipate enough heat @2.8A. It will probably die, just like most of the majicshine junk and their dozens of clones. Yes, I did see the silly little gimmicky countersunk (nearly hidden) “cooling surfaces” on the side. Again, its far to small to do anything useful. Reminds me of a dollar store dead stock special to sell something that looks cool but completely nonfunctional. They are mostly concealed, unducted, have miniscule fin length so will provide no additional surface area… useless. We havent even brought up the issue of the tiny reflector and the inefficiencies that will come with that. Im sure someone on MTBR will review one soon enough to satisfy your curiosity.
IMO, any decent heavily constructed C8 with a spare change of batteries in a tail bag would be a far better investment. At an ambient temp of 60 degree F @ a constant 18 mph, even a C8 driven above 2.6A to the emitter WILL OVERHEAT in 20 minutes. For instance, a constant 2.8A to the emitter will burn your hand and cook the battery in a Convoy C8 under the same conditions. I ride 3-4 times per week in the evenings and have been doing this a long time. Also been through dozens of builds & mods for bike lights.
Why not just buy a descent budget light with a larger reflector to begin with?
my 2 C8 driven at 2.8 and 3 amps (tail cap) get warm, but not burning hot when i ride with them. I only must remember to change mode when i stop
It sounds like your C8’s arent delivering above 2.6A to the emitter during the entire duration. Unfortunately in this game, there’s just no way to cheat the laws of thermodynamics and statistical mechanics.
i’ve been told in other threads that it is, that well over 2A to the emitters don’t make people’s lights very warm, only mine (of the same model) with little to no air movement 
i can believe that moving air will cool them a lot better then no air movement
…hmm, an all aluminum one piece machined holder for example made for convoy S2…now that’s an idea…
well, i must say that the temp when i ride by night uses to be lower than 15ºC, more between 5 and 10C (40-50F), and i will not get burnt if im in movement, i i stop it gets pretty hot
Unsubscribed… have fun y’all! :bigsmile: