Intl-outdoor's 3535-size 365nm UV-led on 16mm Noctigon (Royalighting RY-3535P)

I wonder if we got different products, then. I’ve only tried one and two cells, but it’s much much brighter on two cells. My DMM confirms it, too. Even the amperage goes up with two cells. Overall power used increased by a factor of about 4 or 5, IIRC, and it shows.

Mine does look the same as what I’ve seen posted elsewhere, two dies right next to each other under one dome, but it seems people’s results vary. In any case, I may just have to get one of these nicer LEDs and make myself a new little UV light. It’s too bad the upgraded 602C host was only made for a short time.

Awesome review. Thank you for doing this for us.

You should consider the Nichia NCSU276A

Under promises and over delivers if you want a good 3535 UV part

Spec’s look good, to bad it uses a XB pad layout, not XP like these other’s. Wonder how expensive they’ll be to the US. Luxeon makes a good UV emitter to but they’re just as much money as the LZ1 is for less output and lower driver current at the same higher vF.

yes you would need to use a 119B board

Would using Kapton tape, e.g.:

work with these emitters and an XP-G board?

Yes you just need to keep the anode and Cathode pads of the XP centre thermal pad to avoid shorts

I'd love to have a look at that Nichia one, but it is 40 dollars shipped (, and that is too much at the moment for one led, some testing fun and then a modded light in a wavelength that I have already 'covered' twice.

Perhaps later sometime :-)

EDIT: Also, I am cheap ;-) , and so is this forum, tests of cheap parts are more interesting than tests of expensive parts, especially if that reveals that you can make for cheap a flashlight with the performance of something more expensive. In case of the (affordable) tested led of the OP has the advantage of fitting on a DTP copper board so that it can be run at 400mW output. I made for 17+9=26 dollars a (estimated) 300mW OTF uv-flashlight with it with a performance of one that would cost you many times more (a quick internet scan learns that usually they are over 200 dollars). That is what BLF is about :-)

The issue is with heatsinking, because there is no center thermal pad those style LED’s are designed to heatsink threw the front, to overdrive them, or even run them at max current you need to have them heatsinked correctly, the best way it threw the reflector touching the base board (the base of the COB LED, not the MCPCB), thats what they’re intended to use.

I’m with you, why take a chance its not a good performer, or deal with the lackluster heatsinking, or even mess with it at all when the LEDENGIN LZ1 (thats currently the top performer) is cheaper to get, easier to use and a better design

If calculated cost of parts, measurement tools and time, actually not that cheap, until data is release for public. So thanks again.

If not tested how do we know?

I think we must have some kind of fund from contribution of members at their will for test purpose.
Let sb or someone else hold it.

This would NEVER work.

If you like someone’s testing / work PP them yourself, a community fund will never work, ever. Also instead of money you could buy the LED and send it to DJozz or someone for testing, not all of it has to be out of his pocket…

A community fund just will not work, to many upset people thinking their work is the “best” and that they deserve the fund’s more than someone else, its just not even feasible.

edit: How I know is the datasheet, it’s not even close to the LZ1.

CK dont say that cuz it does work and LPF has had MANY MANY MANY ‘murder funds’ no we dodnt go kill someone but instead killed diodes in the name of testing. We killed or tried to kill a $300 diode once. Obviously no one gets anything out of it other than test results but weve done it alot on LPF

I don’t mean community fund for contributors, but fund to buy parts. I think it’s different.

I was about to post about LPF murder funds! Always worked out well back in the day. When a 8x bluray was expensive enough to need a fund. Now you can get a 16x for 1/3 the cost of our murdered 8x. Hope IgorT is well, where ever he might be these days.

Oh yea, and get off my lawn!

Hmm, a fund, wow! I could declare two power supplies, my high end luxmeter, two low-end luxmeters, $50 worth of copper, three DMM's, a monochromator, financial compensation for my girlfriend for lack of attention, and more. And I would be cheap, think what HKJ should receive for compensation of his purchases and equipment .

No, I would not want a fund for testing, it would feel far too much like testing is an obligation instead of a hobby.

That’ll cost more than everything you have! You see how much nails and hair goes for nowdays. Lucky found a cheap massage place, all I see is money missing out my wallet while I was working on lights!

The point of a fund is NOT, LET ME REPEAT, NOT for testing supplys or equipment but ONLY for the parts being tested. In lasers cases the diode only, in the case here itd be the LED only and maybe a noctigon or similar. If you dont have the suppliies or equipment to test stuff then no one will fund you. The point of a fund is to find out information on the desired product not a go fund me page.

djozz’s girlfriend wants us to get a “kickstarter” going, on the honeydo list. :smiley:

Kickstarter has banned honeydo funds. Indygogo however, will accept anything and everything! When a scam gets kicked off kickstarter they just hop over to Indygogo.

Anyways, what are the reward levels for funding Djozz’s girlfriend’s honeydo list?

FWIW I thought welight made it clear that this LED was worth testing by implying that the datasheet did not tell the whole story, see my bold below:

That said, if the prices are that high I don’t really know how interesting it is to us folks with our BLF hat on, like djozz said…