If calculated cost of parts, measurement tools and time, actually not that cheap, until data is release for public. So thanks again.
If not tested how do we know?
I think we must have some kind of fund from contribution of members at their will for test purpose.
Let sb or someone else hold it.
This would NEVER work.
If you like someone’s testing / work PP them yourself, a community fund will never work, ever. Also instead of money you could buy the LED and send it to DJozz or someone for testing, not all of it has to be out of his pocket…
A community fund just will not work, to many upset people thinking their work is the “best” and that they deserve the fund’s more than someone else, its just not even feasible.
edit: How I know is the datasheet, it’s not even close to the LZ1.
CK dont say that cuz it does work and LPF has had MANY MANY MANY ‘murder funds’ no we dodnt go kill someone but instead killed diodes in the name of testing. We killed or tried to kill a $300 diode once. Obviously no one gets anything out of it other than test results but weve done it alot on LPF
I don’t mean community fund for contributors, but fund to buy parts. I think it’s different.
I was about to post about LPF murder funds! Always worked out well back in the day. When a 8x bluray was expensive enough to need a fund. Now you can get a 16x for 1/3 the cost of our murdered 8x. Hope IgorT is well, where ever he might be these days.
Oh yea, and get off my lawn!
Hmm, a fund, wow! I could declare two power supplies, my high end luxmeter, two low-end luxmeters, $50 worth of copper, three DMM's, a monochromator, financial compensation for my girlfriend for lack of attention, and more. And I would be cheap, think what HKJ should receive for compensation of his purchases and equipment 
.
No, I would not want a fund for testing, it would feel far too much like testing is an obligation instead of a hobby.
That’ll cost more than everything you have! You see how much nails and hair goes for nowdays. Lucky found a cheap massage place, all I see is money missing out my wallet while I was working on lights!
The point of a fund is NOT, LET ME REPEAT, NOT for testing supplys or equipment but ONLY for the parts being tested. In lasers cases the diode only, in the case here itd be the LED only and maybe a noctigon or similar. If you dont have the suppliies or equipment to test stuff then no one will fund you. The point of a fund is to find out information on the desired product not a go fund me page.
djozz’s girlfriend wants us to get a “kickstarter” going, on the honeydo list. 
Kickstarter has banned honeydo funds. Indygogo however, will accept anything and everything! 
When a scam gets kicked off kickstarter they just hop over to Indygogo.
Anyways, what are the reward levels for funding Djozz’s girlfriend’s honeydo list?
FWIW I thought welight made it clear that this LED was worth testing by implying that the datasheet did not tell the whole story, see my bold below:
That said, if the prices are that high I don’t really know how interesting it is to us folks with our BLF hat on, like djozz said…
I mentioned it in the context of a 3535 package, albeit not a plug in for XP footprint, cost well up to you guys. My perspective is a little different, if I have to dick around for more than a hour to get a $10 led to do the job of a $40 led, Im already in the hole, but when time isn't money....$10 leds will make sense, the kicker is if you never get the performance you want from the $10 led, all the free time in the world isnt going to leave you with that LED post coital grin
I’ve been looking at the LZ1 mounted on a 20mm star to put in a host like the Convoy M2 and I’m glad that I read your post before I bought it. After looking at the picture again, I was able to see what you were saying that it wasn’t DTP. Better off buying it bare.
So how did you mount the LED Engin to the Sinkpad? Was it as easy as pre-tinning, gluing chip down to the thermal pad with Arctic Silver and solder the cathodes and anodes? I doubt that you had to use a hotplate or hot air station from the looking at the picture above .
I’m new to flashlights as a hobby but modifying and soldering things aren’t new to me. I used to mod CB radios and MARS/CAP Ham radios way back when. When I had better eyesight, I soldered a 32 pin chip into a Xbox for a friend. I was nervous as a bomb disposal technician when I did that mod LOL.
Glue? No I solderer it like normal. Just had to cut some traces on the xml color sinkpad to kill contunity to the thermal pad.
See post 86 in this thread.
(That’s a direct link if you have your page view settings on 30 posts per page).
Note do you already have an xml color sinkpad? They’re not avaliable for sale…
When I said glue I meant Arctic Silver on the thermal pad and thermal slug. As for the the star board, I haven’t bought one yet. Will the regular non color XML board work because vestureofblood has some of those for sale. Ordering from the company direct probably requires buying a certain lot size and I wouldn’t want to do that. Would a Noctigon XM20 work as well as the Sinkpad? Those are easy to come by and I wouldn’t be planning on over-driving the crap out of it. I’d rather drive it at one amp in a meaty host and have it be a constant duty cycle instead of over-driving the crap out of it and having to back down because it’s getting hot.
I haven’t really messed around much with surface mount components because I worked on old school stuff where you didn’t have to worry about lifting a trace on a board and the things you wanted to cool down were mounted on heat sinks. Playing with flashlights is going to be a new hobby for me but this old dog is willing to learn some new tricks.
A regular XM pattern MCPCB won’t work cause the center thermal pad of the LZ1 is larger than an XM thermal pad and contacts the XM + & - pad’s in the center. Not a problem with the xml color pad cause the + and - pads are divided into 4 tony sections isolated from eachother.
Ask VOB he my have one or two more xml color sinkPAD’s left, tho if you only drive it at one amp you don’t really even need it (tho DTP never hurts).
FYI at 1.4A there is no need to run a reduced duty cycle when on a DTP board, that’s what DTP boards are for.
I still don’t see any value in DTP for this application. We’re talking about 1.4A, less than 6W total power. Djozz and Match have both done testing which didn’t show much value in that region for other emitters, this one will be no different. Here are a couple of djozz’s tests which show what I’m talking about:
If we were sneaking much beyond 1.4 Amps it might start to be “a thing”, even at 2A or 3A djozz shows a difference. I just don’t see where the testing shows that DTP does squat for a 1.4A LED.
So just use the LedEngin MCPCB.
I think you are right, wight, 1.4A should not require special heatsinking. But why is this emitter so *#@ expensive?... I would like to do the colourXM-L-Sinkpad trick, wire this emitter to the power supply and lightmeter, and see how much current it really can handle before the output maxes out. Could be easily 2/3 amps, why not?
I’d say a murder fund is needed once emitters get to this kind of price. I think a possible shift to the output spectrum when outside of the 300mA-700mA drive current range was mentioned earlier. You’d be setup to test for that too.
I heard murder fund! :party: