If driving it at 1 Amp mounted in the meaty Convoy M2 Host will work, it relieves me of the stress of trying mess around with surface mount stuff.
Digikey has the best price for me. $36.12 + $5 USPS Priority shipping. Mouser wants $75 for shipping. 
I think you may be doing something wrong at both sites! I guess it could be related to our locations, but I donāt really think so. Mouser has $4.99 shipping (USPS āEconomyā - aka UPS Mail Innovations in most cases I think) and Digikey has $3.22 shipping (USPS First Class).
In my experience (to central Ohio) mouserās cheapest option (for a single emitter) for me is $7.99 and its the service where UPS/FedEx transports it to the local PO and USPS delivers it) Digikey is $3.22 USPS first-class (but they donāt ship till next day even if you clear the same-day cut off by hours).
Digikey orders get here in 3 days (2 day shipping), mouser orders take 6 days, I always use DK except for the rare occasions I only find the item at mouser (Amber XP-E2ās and the LZ1ās on 11 MCPCBās ).
Ah, so Mouser is not the same across con-US. Good to know.
I prefer paying a little more for priority mail vs first class. You can track priority mail and itās insured up to a certain price. Hereās a screen shot.
I still donāt see what youāre doing.
When I punch an order in for that emitter to ā9751 Townline Rd, Cheboygan, MI 49721ā it shows up just like the pricing to ship to me in VA. Economy is $4.99, just like usual. Priority Mail is $6.99. At a glance the entire shipping price list looks identical to what I see to VA. Are you sure youāre signed into the correct site? Youāve got a little USA flag in the upper right corner?
EDIT: Also, how do you get the shipping price to show up inside your cart? For me itās always got an āEstimateā hyperlink where yours shows a price.
I see now what you are talking about. When I would go to www.mouser.com it was taking me to the Israel website. I figured that they had moved there. When I clicked on the flag, it took me to a page where I could select USA.
Sounds good. Now the real question is how C_k is coming up with $8 to Ohio? Heh.
Well I went ahead and signed into mouser again, added one of the same LZ1ās to an order and hit estimate shipping and this time it gave me the same two options pictured above so I pulled out my last invoice from when I ordered my single LZ1 on 11mm board on oct 31āst and the total on it is $44.11 ($36.12 + 7.99) and I definitely (absolutely no doubt) choose the cheapest shipping option it gave me at that point cause it was a single part for a personal build so I wasnt paying anything extra for faster shipping.
Still tho, even at the ānewā price I bet itās that same FedEx/USPS joint service, Iāll stick with Digikey but thanks to mouser for taking paypal now (tho I have a PP credit card so technically anywhere takes my paypal)
I got this pair of 365nm UV emitters off ebay today, they were supposed to be the white base oneās like from IO (which I also have 2 of on the way) but theyāre these green base oneās.
I threw together an A6 host I had to test it, it really seems like its 365 with very little visible output. It seems to have a higher vF and was only doing .67A direct drive from an NCRB at 4.2V so I zener modded a 105C with 5 7135ās and am running it from 2x CR123, itās now pulling the 1.75A the 5*7135ās should be and it seems (by eye) exactly even with a LEDENGIN emitter I have here running at 1.3A which is really exciting.
Im really happy with this build, it went together very nicely. I actually think I like it more than my LZ1 L2C (tho being budget friendly helps a lot). This light is going to a mechanic buddy for xmas who needs a UV light for leak detection, not sure if Iāll use the A6 host but it ended up so nice I might just leave it as is.
Mmm. Good info, thanks. That high Vf is tricky. Can you please measure your current Vf @ 1.75A drive?
with the 2 CR123ās slightly depleted running at 1.687A its pulling 4.22v. This was my last set of CR123ās (my little sis burned threw the rest on her Adirondacks camping trip last month). When I get more Iāll take another measurement with full cells (both of these are still >3v but I ran the light about 30 minutes total so they are somewhat wore down).
That doesnt seem too bad, I think this is just a crappy emitter, I bet its vF vs I graph is a pretty strange shape tho but Iām not really setup to test anything like that.
I was planning on showing mine off once I build one to my mechanic friends. A while back when I was over there, they turned off all the lights in the shop and was using a small florescent black light to find a leak. I figure they wouldnāt have to turn the lights out with this.
Also I canāt wait until my penlights come. Iāll show them what they are missing. The ones they got from the Snap-On truck are a overpriced joke.
Since the color SinkPADs arenāt available, having a DTP solution has been bugging me. Since the LZ1 thermal slug extends into the cathode and anode pads, your solution was to cut the traces of the center two pads of the cathode and anode of the color SinkPAD.
Then I stumbled upon this thread where djozz made a XML Color board from a 16mm round XML SinkPAD. He cut through the traces with a scalpel, checked for continuity and filled the cuts in with Arctic Alumina to keep the solder out of where it shouldnāt go.
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/26139
Then I had a brainfart after seeing how the traces of the 16mm round look and came up with a idea on mounting a LZ1 on a 16mm round SinkPad. Iād prefer to use a the 20mm star so I could use a host like a Convoy M1 or M2 but I canāt find any high res shots of the 20mm SinkPAD to see how the traces look on that model.
What do you think? Will my brainfart work or did I just end up having diarrhea of the brain?
Sounds like a lot of extra work which is totally unnecessary. See here to learn why - 6x 20mm XML-ledboard comparison
According to my test of the XM-L colour there is a 15% gain at 2A current when a DTP copper board is used. For some it is not really worth the trouble (you are not quite going to see that difference), for others it is: once you're done that extra 15% is 'for free' after all. And I reckon it will improve the lifetime of the led as well (for who-ever is interested in that, it is not quite a common BLF concern :evil: )
djozz, does that math add up? If the emitter has a recommended max of 1A, and you drive it at 2A on copper for a 15% gain, how can the life of the emitter actually be longer?
And remember, 15% of a fairly low number is not much of a gain. A triple XP-L that makes 3000 lumens shows a nice gain when talking 15%, a UV emitter with 30-50 lumens? Well, obviously the gains are significantly less noticeable.
Much easier to burn your retinaās though, so I guess thereās benefitsā¦
As far as āfreeā goes, time spent modifying the star to get a 15% gain is not considered by most to be free. Depends on if youāre playing or paying. 
Adjust the scenario a little bit and assume that the LED will be driven at 2A in both situations (DTP or no DTP). The relative life of the emitter will probably be longer with DTP vs no DTP.
On the rest, I donāt know but I assume that 15% is just as difficult to notice at 3000 lumens as 300 lumens. :~
Iām not downplaying the value of an extra 15% though. If gains like that are stacked they can become lucrative.
Dale, the 15% gain is for both boards at 2A.
What I did not test is what happens if more than one die at a time is switched on. Heat dissipation may get more critical then and more profit may be expected from a DTP-board.
I'm not sure if the perception of an actual 15% output difference would be different at high or low lumens. Interesting question :-)