Mouth watering.
That looks like a tasty burger!
I was going to mount my LZ1 in a host today but something doesn’t look right. It looks off center going toward the 1 o’clock position. Does this look odd?
Bump. Looks odd to me, but I haven’t seen one in person. DBCstm?
EDIT: actually, CK’s photos show that his LED appears the same way. Take a look at this one: Photo Storage
Mine was on a smaller star, didn’t look like that at all…sorry.
Jubeldum is referring to what’s inside the dome.
That’s not a straight down view. With the dome I’d say a straight down view is necessary for comparison.
Just a quick question, so would the original LED in this thread be a good choice for curing Norland?
For what I understand, yes, very quick
I made an as straight down as possible picture of the led (I have a better solder iron now ;-) ) :
Great stuff, I have been slowing curing with a borrowed Arc AAA UV. I’ll build something up with this LED for a quick curer. I had a UV Haiku briefly but the $$$$’s it cost were not worth it for occasional trit/norland work.
Mine has to be a factory defect. Still waiting on Digilink to get back with me.
For some reason, that picture is reminding me of something that was on a certain Christmas Island website. 0:)
But on a serious note, that is centered way better than mine.
When I first saw your post I didn’t see what you were talking about. Now it stands out like a sore thumb!
I’d definitely be asking for this one to be replaced, these things are not cheap, why should it look like it is?
Imagine the beam pattern that cockeyed thing would put out. I don’t think a OP reflector could help it. LEDEngin quality control was asleep at the wheel the day that was made.
How did those new green colored 365nm LEDs work out for you? Are they working as good as the LZ1? Inquiring minds want to know if. 
Simon is now carrying a green 365nm LED on his Aliexpress Store . They look like they are the same LED.
I haven’t been to happy with them but that’s mostly do to the fact that I spend 2x what they’re worth trying to get the white one’s (the white one’s pictured and described but then the green one’s showed up. Twice.) Other than that they do perform well for what they are and actually have LESS visible output than LZ1’s!.
They’re probably similar to the royalighting one’s. Overall, had they been what I purchased, I would be happy with them. I have one in an A6 with a 105C and I put another into a single cell fenix (with a boost driver from 1x123).
Note the the absurdly high vF, around 4.5v (the one in the A6 with the 7135 driver had 5 chip’s but only does ~1 but I can squeeze out 1.25A from a 4.35v cell hot off the charger), I cant afford to feed it CR123’s anymore. That’s why it did so well in the boost driver fenix, I sent that light to my buddy Calvin, who is a mechanic, as a ALS for leak detection.
In other words, spend the extra money on a LZ1 and save money, time and heartache?
Nice thread,
This IO UV noctigon led also looks quite good...
Since this is thread for that led did any of you guys made some new build out of it?
Driven at 1,5A should give 600mw radiation and under quality optics(lets say 50mm ones) that number could get lets say 50-100X boost and that would be 30-60W depending on optics which would be extremely well result because similar lights cost around 700$.
A bit of good old nanjg 105c, and LG18650D1 looks like right measure for this IO emitter.