Use the correct IC 7135
Finally,
I can see what is “dim to red”
Assembly process records, a lot of small details………
Video：Speak Chinese
Wow! Such intricate work! 
Great work! Lots of great fabrication!!! 
Nice :+1:
Nice work all of you guys
I’m impressed
I hope someday to make my flashlight as i want.
I’ve read this thread again and again and i have some questions but first thing first what host to use for my requirements?
- First of all IPX8
2.18650B first preference or CR123 - RGBW and UV
- Adjustable output
- Strobo,sos,beacon,police etc
- Easy to use and to make as my first flashlight.
tterev i think 3,4,5,6 is easy with MELD-X 
For 18650 hosts I can recommend the Lumintop SDmini, Solarstorm SC02, Fenix TK16, and the Olight S20
I’ve designed MELD-x to facilitate builds like these as much as possible, but be forewarned, nothing about a RGBWUV build is easy! These are tough installations, I will help as much as I can but I wouldn’t recommend tackling it as a first build.
I agree with the SC02, i have see your project.
What PCBs i would need for this project.
I found some LED’s it’s OK?
RED: XQERED-H2-0000-000000301 630nm
GREEN: XQEGRN-H2-0000-000000B01 535nm
BLUE:XQEBLU-H0-0000-000000Z01 485nm
UV: LHUV-0400-0500 400nm
WHITE: I don’t know about LED and MCPCB some recomendation’s?
I have some soldering skills and equipment if that is the problem.
I appreciate your help.
Depends on what your host and beam pattern requirements are. In general I would recommend XP-L
tterev the 400 nm UV LED is recommended but have you ever try to install 365nm?
I haven’t done 365nm but I have put 380nm parts in a few builds. The only potential issue is that the shorter wavelengths have a greater chance of causing the optics to fluoresce and also may be blocked more by the optics.
After reading about this driver i have to build a light with it. I have a few MC-E Leds left over from my last build so i want to use one MC-E for the job. If i get it right i only have to stack a second 7135 on each channel to get to the 700mA for the MC-E. That should be no problem. But now i have to find a nice (chep) host (dual switch prefered) and single 18650 would be nice. If someone has a tip or maybee a old host to sell let me know (the SKILHUNT H02x or H03x is not a dualswitch light but it would be my favorite light if i can get a used host cheap and if i can fit in the MC-E).
How much would it cost to send the driver without the 7135 + shipping to Germany?
The nitecore ec21 is a nice dual switch host. Fenix makes one as well I think.
International shipping is generally about $5 for untracked (first class envelope) or $26 for tracked and insured (priority international)
Thanks i will send you a PM (with further information) when i know whitch Host i will use. Not sure for now. But i will 100% take one of your drivers!
Now i checked out a few UV LEDs for curing glue (385nm is needed). Did anybody know something about these 3 LED´s? Or maybe is using them and can say if they are good. Or if there is a better one that did not cost 3-4 times the money please let me know
I am close to order but still have a question.
I will probably use this host: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/Dual-Cree-XM-l-U2-Led-Torch-2-x-Cree-XM-L-U2-2-U2-5/1987840494.html?spm=2114.13010208.99999999.262.VuHBZ5.
Is it possible to get 700mA on the white, blue, red and green channel (for the MC-E LED) and then use a FET on the UV channel to get direct drive for ~3-4A (LG UV LED on tripple DTP board)?
Not in the stock configuration, but you should have no problems making those modifications - stack extra regulators on the color channels and replace regulators with a FET on uv. It shouldn’t cause any issues with the rest of the driver as long as the high uv current doesn’t droop the voltage too much.
And to reduce the current on the white channel i only have to remove 2 regulators?
When i order the driver can you give me a picture where i can see which regulator and channel fits together? Or the pinnout for the MCU? Can i use a SIR800DP for the UV channel (soldered on a separate board) ?
But i have to wait until the light arrived with the order. Because i do not know what driver size fits the light. Can not wait to take it apart.
And i have luck i checked my stock of 7135 chips and i have 28 Raptor Claws left. But i do not know where to get new ones when i used all i have left.
Interesting host. What are you going to be doing with 15watts of uv?
The real output on the UV should be ~3W of 385nm light. But thats ok. To get more output i would need more Voltage. I got the info that the driver is about 26mm but not a full circle because of the switch pcb. Maybe there is enough space to integrate the fet in the design. So i do not have to use a seperate board for it. Hope that the light will not take 6 weeks to arrive. In the last few month the packages arrived between 7-10 days to 6-10 weeks.
Yes, I was speaking of 15watts consumed. Still a lot of uv:)
@tterev3
To reduce the current on the white channel i only have to remove 2 7135 chips right?
When i order the driver can you give me a picture where i can see which regulator chip and channel fits together? Or the pinnout for the MCU? Can i use a SIR800DP for the UV channel (soldered on a separate board) ?
The hosts are on its way but i have to wait with the driver order until the Wall-E light arrives. Because i do not know what driver size fits the light. Can not wait to take it apart.
And i have luck i checked my stock of 7135 chips and i have 28 Raptor Claws left. But i do not know where to get new ones when i used all i have left.
At the moment the light uses a clicky and a momentary switch. Is this the best option for your ui or would 2 momentary switches be better?