IOS T10/T10B Hosts: XM-L2 - XP-G2 - MT-G2 my builds and thoughts ------- Beamshots :::::::OH OH! Big Trouble! Need Help.

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
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After building a couple of IOS T10s 1x18650(XP-G2 and XM-L2) I decided to give Hanks T10B (2x18650) a go with an MT-G2. This isn't any kind of a review, but more of a collection of thoughts, observations and looky-sees. The host itself is just a T10 with an extension tube that allows two 18650s, so this little dialogue will really be covering both models at the same time.

At first glance, the basic T10 is a little longer than the average 1x18650 light. The head is a little deeper and wider than the norm, with a deeply recessed tailcap. I should have measured the reflector while it was out, because I'm getting the feeling that the visual appearance is a lot of smoke and mirrors. For instance, I was quite surprised when comparing the beam profiles of my XM-L2 T10 build against my much smaller and compact Roche F8 XM-L build. Side by side, on a white wall, the beam profiles are exactly the same. Exactly! You could take a ruler to them and find not a single difference in measurement from hot spot to corona. I think the impression of head size is enhanced by the cooling fins running down the outside of the head. The reflector itself is narrows steeply down toward the LED meaning there is a lot of empty space between the head and reflector.

The host itself is lightly built. Not cheap and tinny, but it doesn't have the heavy built feel of the smaller F8. It seems to handle and dissipate heat well though. The body tube threads up into the head, and the large brass pill then threads down through the head into the body tube, locking body and head together. They cannot be unscrewed unless the pill is removed first. This gives three layers of threaded components for the heat to work through. Pill-tube-head. On high, my T10s will build warmth, but nothing much more. No hot to the touch temps. I even coated the threads of the pill, body tube and head with Arctic Silver before threading down tight, but dont really think it made any difference. I'm running the XP-G2 on a 3.04A Qlite, and the XM-L2 on a questionable 5A driver. I believe that the pill and two layers of components, along with the rows of fins, spread and dissipate the heat before there can be any thermal buildup. Between the two, I prefer the T10 as an XP-G2 host.

The tailcap. The tailcap is deeply recessed with a smart looking stainless trim ring to match the bezel. Why they recessed the tail switch so deeply, I do not know. You have to almost push your finger inside the light to activate the switch. It could be 3mm taller and still tailstand. The boot itself is 16mm. Seeing as the switch is only a small,button beneath the center of the boot, there is a lot of empty, squishy silicone surrounding it. I tried a 14mm boot, but there was not enough lip, and it just fell through the hole. I had a few L2P switches that came with extra boots that I ordered from Solarforce, and gave one a try. Thicker, and smaller in diameter, with a lip wide enough to retain them in the T10 tailcap, they stand prouder and feel more focused on the switch.

Today I decided to build the T10B with an MT-G2 just to find out what will happen. I'm thinking it will be a thin, light, sticklike torch that will flood a close area with light, but not a lot of throw.

My original plan was to use a 3.5A multi cell buck driver, but alas, a bit too big. I could have done it by extending the pill a bit like I did with my TorchLite, but I didn't want to bother with all that with this particular host.

Left: 3A buck driver. Right: 3.5A buck driver

I settled on the 3A buck driver, and got it to fit by sanding down the little ridges on the outside of the top board. It fit quite nicely, and I stuffed in pieces of supplied thermal insulation to keep it from moving or making contact and shorting inside the pill.

Reflowed the MT-G2 onto a Noctigon, applied a little arctic silver, tightened down the retaining ring for the driver...no sweat.

I added some copper braid to front and tail springs while I was at it...added batteries...and...light. I won't be able to give you a definitive description of the beam until it gets dark.

The profile is big with a very large hotspot that is not defined, but bleeds into the spill with a totally even, neutral white looking tint. The MT-G2 is a very deceptive LED that at first glance, doesn't strike awe, but is actually putting out a ton of light. This driver threw me off for a sec too. I tried clicking through modes, and no response. Okay, slow down. This driver takes a one second pause before it changes to the next mode. Why, I don't know. Maybe it needs time to think. I got a tailcap reading of 2.98A. I'm good with that.

I'll be adding more information as I get it. It has to get dark sooner or later. Is the suspense building for you too? I'm hoping this is a real flooder. If it is, it might be the perfect match for campers or cottages who don't want a large bulky light. This torch really feels like your holding a small stick, and might be very nice for illuminating a campsite to put away gear, toys and stray beer bottles.

Please ask me anything you need to know. If you need measurements, or info I've forgotten to include, I'll be happy to accommodate.

Maybe some beamshots tonight.

Sent from my iPad

IOS T10 host?
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Some quickie beamshots off my balcony. These were taken with an ipad.

T10 - XP-G2 R5 2B

T10 - XM-L2 T4 5B1

T10B - MT-G2

Just for fun. T10B Shorty MT-G2(without extension tube) 2x18350

I went out to the parking lot to take some more. These are ipad shots, and what the i camera captured looks nothing like what I'm seeing. It shows no tint difference, and the profile it captures is nothing like what I'm seeing with my eyes. It captures these huge fiery hotspots and ignores the spill. The hotspots are not that big and defined, and spill is much brighter. I think it's capturing them more as a thermal image as it bleeds off heat. I'll post them anyway so you can analyze them as you wish.

T10 - XP-G2 R5 2B


T10 - XM-L2 T4 5B1


T10B - MT-G2

Sorry folks. I'm just not optically set up to provide any kind of realistic beamshots. All I can really tell you, is that, that little baton-like torch puts out a wall of light. I couldn't even guess at what the lumens are.

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Hi Ouchy,

Thanks for the “non-review” :)!

Seriously though, you could probably turn this into a full review or preview with all of the info that you already provided!

Thanks again,
Jim

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I think the T10 is a really sweet light! Fit and finish is super nice! :slight_smile: Love the color and design of it.

Yes, its a bit long, but the tail cap is just very nice looking. You can throw the light in a bag an not worry about the button being pressed easily since its a bit recessed.

Not a fan of the big black extension on the T10B version. It looks more like a random extension and not one that suits the design of the light…

I have not considered it a con that the pill screws into the tube. The pill is quite long, and the top of the pill touches/sits into the head. Hottest part of the pill should transfer some heat directly to the head without going through the body. Compared to several lights, I would say it just utilizes the tube a bit better, which is nice, since its a fairly long light (Or maybe that is just wish thinking from my side?). Despite that, heat certainly finds it way to the head very well.
(Until today I have been pushing 3,7A to an XM-L in mine).

Looking forward to see beamshots!
Would be nice to see a reflector comparison side by side with the Roche (one picture from the top, seeing the diameter, and one from the side showing depth/height).
Outdoor beamshot comparison with all lights would be nice. As you know, make sure the T10 with “5A” driver have a fresh battery in order to have decent output.

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I’ve been wanting to do a compact MT-G2 build like this. Thanks for the build pics. Lookin’ forward to beamshots.

Is the T10B extension tube strictly 1x18650 length or does it break down into two smaller extenders? I ask because judging from the knurling it looks like two 1x18350 Solarforce extenders threaded together.

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The extension is 1x18650, and it actually does match up with the light very nicely. You wouldn’t want to have two flat areas meant for a nameplate running down the side of the light. That would be ugly.

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Hi,

I have a light being built, on a pre-order from the “other” forum, that uses the T10B, the IOS 3.5a driver, and an MT-G2. The builder is “darkknightlight”, and he currently in the process of receiving the parts for the builds.

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The 3.5A IOS driver is a pretty tight fit. It would need to have the pill extended a little bit. The only way it’s going in otherwise, would mean really jamming it in tight. I would worry about heat, and shorting.
The reason I decided against going to the bother of fitting it and went with the IOS 3A driver, is that I didn’t think it would make much difference with such a small reflector.
I’d like to hear about yours when it arrives.

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Definitely!

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First beamshots are up. This is a flooder!
Ipad is not the best vehicle for beamshots, but its all I have.

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Fantastic build Ouchyfoot. I like what you have done. Did you happen to take current measurements at the led?

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Thanks DNF. I just took it from the tailcap. I guess I could take an emitter reading. Do I just disconnect one wire at the Led and measure from there?

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I think that that’d be the only way, putting a meter between the emitter + and the driver + output, unless it was direct drive.

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Yes. The negative and then measure exactly the same as the tailcap. If I was a gambling man I’d say you would be getting two amps or just under.
Edit. I should add as you are aware that batteries play a big part in current output here with the MTG-2.

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Does it really matter if I test it from the positive or negative? Will one give me a different reading than the other?

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As far as the single 1x18650 T10 goes, my personal preference is the XP-G2 on copper. Try to run it as close to 3A as possible.

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It should be the same for either - what goes in one end comes out the other end, unless there was some additional path through the emitter.

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That’s what I figure. It’s just one big continuous loop. But, if that is so, why would the reading at the tail be different from the emitter, except that the tail switch itself would be included in loop. But then again, I’m still trying to get my head around why there is continuity between the positive battery spring and the positive LED wire, but not the negative LED wire and the outer ground ring on the driver board.

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Thanks for the beam shots. It looks like the MG-T2 has better color rendition then the 80 CRI XM-L2 5B1. Is that you experience seeing these in real life?

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Beware. My ipad camera is not capable of capturing the tints of any LEDs at night. It just auto focuses and relates everything as a white thermal image. Tint is subjective. The MT-G2 is a little cooler, but comes accross as neutral. It’s the evenness of the tint that makes it look so nice . The 5B1 is warmer. If you like 4C tints, you’ll love the 5B1.