I have built and tested well over 200 T20’s with oslon 4715s and 4725s emitters and i am sorry but i completely disagree with the oslon’s ability to handle anymore than about 1.5A continuous. It can handle up to 5A pulsed but you must follow osrams guidelines for the on/off cycle(see osram datasheet). Mounting an oslon on a sinkpad or noctigon then isolating it with a layer of AA is about the worst possible thermal performance (read some of pilotptk old posts). The start up “lux” will be good, but as the noctigon heat soaks and the heat has no where to go because of the very bad thermal performance of the AA, output will drop like a rock until the emitter fails. Up to 1A the oslon would be “OK” with an AA barrier. My testing has shown that overdriving even in the 1.5A range with a thick enough layer of AA to isolate the pcb builds enough heat to kill the output and eventually kill the emitter. 2A will instantly poof an oslon assembled incorrectly.The best pcb’s currently are the berquist stars. And the best way to mount them would be with screws and maybe a very thin layer of AS5.
going with host postive is another solution, but then you have to isolate the driver, another PIA. just put the oslon on a berquist star, screw it down to the heatsink/pill and drive it 1.5A or less and it will live a long and useful life.
I know i will get jumped on because there are folks here that think AA works well, but the truth is, it does not.
Why do you feel isolating the driver for host positive is a PIA? Use a smaller diameter driver + a contact plate or create custom driver. There are a couple threads on easy potting.
correct.they do not. however, they are very good, and if assembled as i described, outperform sinkpads and noctigons bedded in AA.
easy test:mount a RED xpe(red xpe’s behave very similarly to the 4715s) on a sinkpad bedded in AA, driven at 1.5A point at lux meter and watch the output drop. the output will drop 25% before stabilizing. Now remove the AA and screw the same mcpcb down to the pill with a little AA and you will see very little, if any, drop.simple.
Not using DTP stars would be quicker, bit cheaper cost but no reason for a host positive to be any less strong. And honestly host pos doesn’t feel complex to me. Being able to push the output would be a selling point.
Yep, you are right, i have a feeling thats the truth, cause before i have never ever seen that big ones, and i hunt( with my grandfather ) since i was 6 years old
Some say its the Chernobil radiation over Europe, but i dont think so
Plus, they are banned fot hunting…EU regulations, 15 years already…but their population became quite wast( tens of thousands) and they do lotsa damage, so forest police just do nothing ….Cause of strickt and wierd regulations our Bear population is over 2000 now, only Russia has more in Europe, but Russia`s territory is huge…well, thats another story
Anyway, emitters came today…will see how they perform in C8 shortly
This is true... AA is not as good as screw or similar method mounted MCPCB of course with bit of polishing and drop of artic silver(or better thermal paste).
I wonder if cerakote conducts electricity. I’ll have to check. If not maybe the top of the pill where the pcb sits can be cerakoted to isolate it. Throw a little as5 down to hold the pcb in place. Hmmm something to check.
Oh, no… I was being quite serious. There has been a program to build up the population of the endangered Red Wolf here in NC over the last 30 or so years (the Red Wolf itself is suspected to be a hybrid breed between the grey wolf and the coyote that spread down from the northeastern US). They’ve released packs of red wolves into the wild several times, most recently a few years ago, and they inbred with coyotes fairly quickly. So in NC we have Red Wolf/Coyote hybrids - particularly in the eastern part of the state (where I mostly hunt). They’re actually not too much bigger than regular coyotes in most cases, just end up being coyotes with red wolf coloring patterns.
Coyotes are a fairly big problem here… they’ve opened the season on them completely in I think all 100 counties in NC to where you can hunt coyotes day and night all year round. They’re not as big of a problem as feral pigs in terms of damage to property/agriculture, but they’re certainly very damaging to the ecosystem and the balance of the various native species of other animals (much harder to quantify). Moral of the story is there aren’t enough coyote hunters here. Probably because no one wants to eat coyotes, and most hunters I know (myself included) hunt primarily for the meat (ie: venison).
Well….hunting boars and deers isnt that sporty, Europeant boars has to be ambushed, and all that waiting……
Yeah, we eat boars too, personaly i made once a year( usualy november time) a home made boar sausage…its actualy a dry sausage , very particulay for our reguon and its best purpouce is to be consumed with a bottle or wiskey
Jackals and wild cats are the s…t, they are clever and quite cunny animals
Anyway, its done:
You can see only a red dot in real, i dot know how Samsung s5 managed to photo it that way
With this driver the emitter is at 3.35v and 1.15amps/1.28 at the tail, the body stays relatively cool
As long as i have a second person i will upload and a video, the range is like 150m, and i think the light can be tuned
Cant test in in the open woods atm, cause we have 1m of fresh snow in here, and –20-25 deg in the montain atm
Very nice and congrats on your success. The camera on a cell phone can “see” IR light thats why it looks that way. It’s also a good way to safely “look” at IR light. Never look directly into an IR light source. Now apply what you have learned to a T20 and you will be even happier.
Wel, thats not valid for every phone, mine was charging and i tried to photo it on my work Iphone 3 at first: it ” sees” nothing…then i tried on my wifes S4- only a pale blue dot
Samsung Galaxy tab 2 camera also “sees” nothing
I used a common XBD PCB, singapoore brand, 2.2mm thick - it has better quality than most of the chinese PCBs
Important notice: pay attention on your IR monocle/optics working nanometers, mine is at 940nm, and if i use 850nm emitter the result is dissapoiting, and vise versa
Oslon has 850 and 940 nm emitters
Speaking from a realtime test results: i am using Heckler@Koch 940m monocle, and with the 850nm Osllon the range is 1/2
I also got NIGHT VISION RIFLESCOPE SENTINEL 2.5 x 50 #26015T , operating at 805nm the situation here is quite the opposite: 850nm Oslon is better
Ordered T20 back on 15th of december, they all saying its better over C8, maybe hd2010 and Y3 would be better…X6 isnt……have to try it in a SK69 zoomie that i have though
crappy pics through my mx10160 tube you can see the olson lighting up the tree top. Went out last night about 3 miles out of town but had a full moon and couldnt get good ir pics. There was a house 588 meters away according to google map and the t20 with oslon had no problem lighting up the house and glinting off the lights of the cars parked by the house
Hmmm... :) No matter what type of night vision is in use (gen1,2,3), digital night vision (tubed,monoculars,binoculars, scope add on) 850nm should always be stronger and perform better than 940(5-10 times stronger) if used in same configuration (same flashlight body).
U can use 850 on all IR catching equipment without any worry no matter what kind of illuminator they have (you mentioned your has 805nm laser one).
Can you please give me link for Heckler&Koch 940NM monocule? I never heard about that?
I would like that I am wrong here but remember 850nm should always outperform 940nm one if used in same flashlight, same driver, on any kind night vision device, 940nm is just stealthier (in laser world there are 980nm ones which are even more stealthier).
correct the 850 will outperform 940 all day long. 940 is more stealthy as it is harder to see than the faint red glow from the led on a 850 device. I think TV remotes are closer to 940 since they cant be seen by the naked eye but with a cellphone cam or NOD it can be seen. I am also curious about the h and k monocule.
