Is there anything better then XP-G3's in 3535 LED's now?

Nearly everything is better, than XP-G3, if we also count useful beam.

LH351D is super floody, but there is also LH351C and LH351B, which are correspondingly less powerful and have smaller LES. I think, LH351C could be comparable to XP-G2, and it has a similar CCT range in 90 CRI as the LH351D. Somehow, while many flashlight manufacturer started to use LH351D, no one of them seem to be picking up LH351C.

The tint shift just generally makes me want to vomit with shaved domes, even the ones that most people say are fine trigger me lol. The loss in output compounds the issue.

Yes, 4500k is my ideal tint if I can manage it. Tint mixing is something I am a big fan of, I find tint mixed LED’s just generally look better and “fuller”. They also generally have a lower duv then a single tint setup.

Far as what tints to use to get that, whatever I can get basically. I do try to use as far away as possible tints as they seem to give the best results. Such as 2700k/5700k/5000k or 2700k/6500k/4000k.

Mostly it depends on what I can get my hands on. Also got to factor in the bins of the LED’s, not uncomman to have to use a 70cri 5700k with a higher bin, in which case I will use lower tint in the others to make up for it.

Yeah, I am willing to step down to 80cri to get higher output as long as the tint is good. Tint mixing while technically it doesn’t increase CRI it sure does trick the human eye into thinking it does in most cases.

Just did a quick search on the 351C and maukka seems to show it having a very positive duv? That is a big turn off for me, I am super sensitive to the puke green hue.

Actually looked up maukkas test on the 351D and saw it also has a pretty positive duv, this might of been why I rejected it after testing it.

Have the tint options improved since those tests?

Shaving the 351D does not cause tint shift problems to my eyes.
Tint moves lower in temp and duv. Spill to spot tint shift is actually less.

4000k and 5000k are from AEDe group buy (from awhile back) all appear to have -DUV after shaving.
I was lucky to buy several of each in that group buy.

351Ds from Digikey and KaiDomain required shaving to get them close to bbl, and tint mixing to get below.
The 2x5700k + 1x3500k in my FW3 mix to a very slight pink. A little cooler than the SST-20 4000k.
The SST-20 is pinker on turbo, much much greener on lower modes than the tint mixed 351D.
I haven’t sampled any from Convoy.

A quick look at what is available in XP-G3…

- In hi CRI, similar output to 351D, but uneven tint problem flip chips are known for. Not an issue in frosted optics (as you know).

  • In low CRI, similar output to XPL HI, but again, uneven tint. I find the tint shift from spill to corona to spot of an XPL HI to be my limit.

Where might I find high CRI XP-G3 in >4000k?


Good info, not sure where to get the XP-G3’s now days. Last time I bought them was back in ~2016. I never bothered ordering more as I figured something better would be around by now lol.

Do you know of this CREE comparison tool:

I find it handy for comparing outputs and Vf of LEDs you know (XPL HI, for example) to LEDs you are interested in (XP-G3 in this case).

Good luck!


As far as I know, the XP-G3’s have not been getting much appreciation in flashlights due to green tint and tint shift across the beam. The same for XP-L2’s.

Maukka tested both the XP-G3 and the LH351D in a triple emitter light here. I think you should take a look:

I think the LH351D is likely your best option at this time if you want a little more overall light than SST-20’s, but it is floodier.

For maximum output, of course, you have to go for the low CRI version, but I’m not sure how the tint is on those.

Boaz has small quantities of minus green filters on offer in the want to sell thread if you want to improve overall tint. There is a slight output loss as a result.

Sounds like TexasAce wants max output. CRI is not as important for him.

I think your best bet is a light with multiple XPL Hi. Throws much further than LH351d with genarally brighter output. Still floods enough for close in use.

XPL Hi also blows the socks off SST-20. It is much brighter.

There is no discernible tint shift with sliced LH351D. 4500K won’t be possible though because that’s already close to where 5700K is once sliced :

Mixing increases color saturation a bit, slicing also does it slightly.

So it seems that there have not been much advancement in LED’s over the last 2 years when you boil it down is what I am getting. On one hand that makes it easier since I have experience with most of the LED’s from back there. On the other hand a bit disappointing lol.

LH351D’s are worth considering, just worried that with the extra flood they will not net me the increase in output/throw I am looking for over the SST-20.

I am assuming that good tint 3v XHP50.2’s are not a thing still as well?

I’ll pile on and say if there’s one all around champ IMO it’s the sliced 351D’s. In triples, nothing is really ‘throwy’ except 1mm² emitters like the NM1 (which is something everyone should try out btw with a 10511). SST20s are maybe 40% throwier, but unless you get the top flux bins the amp for amp throw advantage isn’t huge.

Luxeon V2s can offer good tint at lower CRI and good output I hear. KD has 3500K 80CRI 351Ds that while floody, probably pump out the lemons. XPL HI is really good too at this CRI-flux-luminance intersection. I’m not sure about 80CRI bins of Samsung emitters. 219C/319A are getting hard to find, and might not offer any advantages over an XPL, but on paper they compare okay.

BTW, contactr + SKV + the freeman, has anyone tested the FA3 K2 that MTN has or know what Richards source was?

What kind of amps does the 351 triple pull generally?

TA, what form factor and host(s) are you trying to fill? I really have gotten away from triples and big domed emitters for EDCs because beyond a ~10° FWHM I don’t find much of a usefulness of any more ‘flood’ until it is ALL flood, ie no hotspot at all, and that’s for close up use imo, best served in a headlamp. My EDC is a FW1A with a sliced SST20 4000k (probably 600lm OTF max?) and a light pebbled 21mm TIR. I’m getting a ~10° fwhm beam with nearly no spill. This way all the lumens are there. Nothing blinding me in the periphery or foreground means I can use lower power and overall less light to get the same visibility. To be clear, it is nice to have a walloping turbo with tons of lumens for room scanning and the like, but for now there just isn’t a setup that does both well IMO while offering neutral CCTs and positive R9 in a bezel size below ~35mm.

Moving up to the D4S on the other hand is where things come together. Cd/lm and a scorching turbo all in one (larger) package.

I am using a convoy S8 host. Not sure what degree the 10511 is but I find it to be pretty much ideal in most use cases at mid power levels. Then I have turbo for times I need more light.

I would say 90% of uses are at ~500 lumens or less but having the ability to go 3000 lumens that other 10% of the time has proven more useful then I thought it would.

Worst case I can go back to the XP-G3 setup I had before assuming I can still find them. I know it gives the output and beam I want, the tint is just not as nice as other options naturally.

An XP-G3 with less tint shift and better selection of high CRI tints would be the ideal LED for me. Well within reason, just doesn’t seem to exist yet lol. Maybe the XP-G4 will prove to be it.

Any word on when the G4’s will come out?

Sorry, not in 3v. Not willing to try a build with a big boost driver yet?

I would LOVE to use a boost driver but last I checked there were not any good options using BLF firmware and with the power levels I want. I would want at least 15A, 20A would be better. There were a few being developed but the projects all died last I checked.

My 3535 favourite leds are Luxeon V2. Not sure if they suit your needs, but either 5000K, 4000K or 3000K, are bright and make good looking beams!

Convoy S8, forgot about that one…

MTN has some 80CRI 319A’s still in stock. I don’t know what tint they are but they’re D400 80CRI in both 3000 and 5000K. I’ve been tempted to try a mixed triple for a while under narrow optic. Could the hex die solve the 10507’s artifacts? IDK. Someday I might break down and find out.

20A :open_mouth: at what, 6V ? That sounds a bit much lol.