Is there anything special you need to do to install an H17Fx into an S2+?

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
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I’m wanting to install an H17Fx Dr Jones driver into an S2+ Titanium (well, four of them, two shorties and two regulars). Reliability and durability are my main aims with this driver. I want to make sure the LED stays within the temp and voltage specified by the manufacturer. I don’t have to do anything special to put it in do I? I would like the drivers to be fully functional thermal control wise especially.

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You may need to file/dremel down the driver retaining ring to clear the 7135 chips.

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I hadn’t considered that possibility of doing one of these into an S2+… I’m planning to update my Ti SFT40 6500K to a 3000K emitter and not I’m tempted to see how well the H17Fx might work with it.

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@INeedMoreLumens is right. The stock retainer ring won’t clear the 7135 chips, so you can make it thinner by grinding out the inside of the ring to make the opening larger. A Dremel makes quick work of it. The alternative is to solder the driver into the pill, and leave the retainer ring out. Also, if you plan to use an illuminated switch, you’ll need to add a bleeder resistor to provide power to the switch LEDs.

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I would be very careful
Installing a FET driver in a Ti host doesn’t seem like the best idea to me

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Which LED?

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Uh oh, is that due to the thermal conductivity of titanium?

Well there are going to be multiple, two will be Luminus SST20 4000K 95 CRI (With 15 degree beaded TIR optics) one will be a Nichia 519 4500K and one a 519 2700K (with an 85 degree beaded TIR optic) The titanium hosts will also be black DLC coated.

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Yes
Titanium conducts heat way worse than aluminium or copper

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Ah yes Jihawaii808 was telling me this as he sold me his very last FW1A Pro titanium (he didn’t have a stainless bezel for it so he didn’t sell it with the others, until he had the Fw3A SS’s made then he was able to make it for me)
He said people would push them so hard it would melt the solder on the LED PCB and the wires would pop off :smile: all the more reason I want to use the H17Fx, it allows for thermalThrottling control and voltage control I want these lights to run cool, I don’t need a ton of power they’re close to medium EDC’s

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Wouldn’t it make more sense to use a 5A buck driver from convoy in group 8 in that case? Max 2.5A, regulated current, temperature protection. And buck will always get less hot than linear at the same power.

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I don’t entirely trust the Convoy drivers…