Is XM-L2 T5 5D1 80 CRI the best option we've got for high CRI XM sized LEDs?

Pretty much what the title says:

If I don’t want to go warm white (3000K-3500K) for 85CRI, it seems the only option for “high” CRI of 80 is the 5D1 (4000K) T5 output bin.

Is this correct, or does anyone know another XM footprint LED that is high CRI and neutral white? 90 CRI and 4500-5000K is my ideal, but doesn’t seem to exist.

I suppose you don’t want 6V LEDs ? Because you could chose an XHP50 or Nichia 119

Or MT-G2, or a Cree COB or a Luminus SBT-70 or CBT-140 or 219C or XHP-70 or …

:stuck_out_tongue:

:smiley:

My limited experience with high CRI is that Cree still lacks true red even when they’re supposed to be high CRI, even when they’re A or D colour bin.

Maybe specialized vendors have better stuff, i don’t know.

I guess this is why Nichia triples are popular.
But it won’t throw…

Nichia 144A is a 5050 LED, but it’s 6 Volts and needs special MCPCB.

The reason I ask: I have an EagleTac D25LC2 mini (just purchased second-hand) that I really like the beam pattern (I’ve really liked the beam on all of the handful of EagleTac lights I’ve owned) but I want to replace the 1A XM-L2 with something more neutral and higher CRI, but at the same time want to keep the XM-L size to preserve the beam pattern (so no Nichia swaps). I think I already know the answer, but I was just hoping there was a secret 90 CRI XM-L2 that I’d never heard of…

Just FYI, I tried both 7A XM-L2 from Simon and 7A3 90+CRI from KD and they look exactly the same tint to my eyes.
I put 3 of each in my 2 Olight SR mini and can’t even tell the difference between the two when I grab them.
They’re 3000K though, so maybe too warm for you. Nice warm and pleasant, but not what you expect from an EDC IMO.

When you’re coming from a 1A i think you’ll like 3A better.
I think 3A (or 3D) is the best tint for low CRI Cree.
The XP-L HI will have the least amount of tint shift (the dreaded cool spill, warm corona, neutral beam effect…) but goes on a XP star, but you could buy one on a star and swap the LED on star.

But i don’t know how many Amperes that EagleTac pushes, but you could put a Nichia 219C in there perhaps.

Coming from 1A, the T5D1 will seems really warm, but not yellowish-green tinted like the 5C, which will be nice.

X3 ,

haha, funny that you mention your Olight SR Mini, I have the same dilemma with my Olight S1 Baton - I want a high CRI neutral but need an XM sized LED to not screw up the TIR beam pattern.

Yep, with Olight TIRs you’re stuck with XM-L2…
My EDC S1 and Smini both have the 5D1 80CRI from intl outdoor.
I’m pleased with this tint, but I like warmish neutral tints :slight_smile: 4000K is my sweet spot

@OP: unfortunately, yes.
Unless you can use a 6V XHP-50. It has the same solder profile.

I have been using the T6 4C, not great CRI but good tint. The 5A1 and 5A3’s really look good, but I have only gotten ahold of a very few of them.

I used an XM-L2 T5 5D1 80+CRI in an S2 a few months ago and just love both the tint and the high CRI that this light puts out. Great used indoors in the evening.

:person_facepalming:

Apparently it’s not only women that wear the wrong shoe size in the name of fashion… :stuck_out_tongue:

XHP-50.2, perhaps?

The 6V aspect of the XHP-50.2 is slightly problematic for this particular light that I was asking about, but…

I did not realize the XHP footprint was the same as the XM (I guess that’s where the 35, 50 and 70 come from, huh? 3.5x3.5, 5.0x5.0, and 7.0x7.0mm). So I learned some good info there.

I’ll definitely keep the XHP50 in mind in the future with proper driver selection, thanks.

Well, since I’ve put 6V MT-G2’s in chopped MiniMag’s and smaller I guess I don’t think in terms of limits. :wink:

I’ve actually run 6V emitters off pairs of 14250 IMR cells, even 2 10250’s before! lol Whaaaaat? I like a small potent light! :smiley: