Way to go man! You broke her!
Seriously though, is that Ebay light you got this one:
If so, I'm looking forward to it!
-Garry
that’s one of them and nice though it looks, its not too hot under the hood.
:(
-Garry
(Sorry for the off-topic chatter.)
Dang that sucks. I like the looks of it also. Does it have potential though?
I think this off-topic discussion would be better suited for gord's 26650 tube light thread. Perhaps someone following that thread is anxiously awaiting to hear when gords has received this light.
-Garry
I just received a review sample of the Jacob A60 from Aurabuy.
2.1Amps on high at the tailcap! EZ900 die
Looks like they have some better stock compared with the underdriven old stock.
Review to follow over the next few days
Just received my 2 from Aurabuy. One pulled 2.1 but the other was 1.05 so I shorted out one resistor and it came up to 2.15. Thanks to all for the tips!
Just got my Jacob A60 from AuraBuy - nice all-around so far, shinier finish than my DX one, EZ900 not EZ1000, says Jacob A60 on it while the one from DX said CREE Q5. With a Pana 2900, it pulled 2.2A but with a Samsung INR 1500, it pulled 2.4-2.5A.
Throw on Pana 2900 (best Pana tested), 2.2A: 78 kcd
Throw on Samsung INR 1500 2.4-2.5A: 80 kcd, lumens: 340 @start, 309 @30 secs
Looking at the beams at about 20 ft, the EZ900 based AuraBuy is smaller than the DX EZ1000, but the DX is brighter, more intense -- both on Samsung INR's.
DX A60 w/FT XR-E R2 EZ1000, 2.8A driver from I-O, reads 2.86A:
throw: 86 kcd, lumens: 408 @start, 374 @30 secs
I know these Samsung INR's excel with XM-L2's on SinkPAD's, but they also seem to excel in a A60.
Edit: Ooops! Light meter battery was dying so it inflates #'s. The Samsung INR doesn't seem to make a difference, and the 2 A60's are now doing about the same #'s, even though the DX A60 has an AR lens, driver of 2.8A, EZ1000 R2 emitter. So still, the AuraBuy Jacob is doing pretty good!
Gotta get back to work on the XP-E2/SinkPAD upgrade - got the emitters in, today should see the numbers (more accurate this time... 
).
Wow thats sweet Tom! Thanks for that info seems like they are putting it in everyones that recently got it from aurabuy. Wonder if the small sun C10 I just got from them might have the same ez900 in it? Will have to investigate that!
Just received my Jacob today. Using a AW 2600 cell fully charged, it holds steady at 2.35a at the tail cap on high mode. This was using my 12g DMM leads. Seems really nice and in mint condition.
I too received one from AuraBuy that fits the description given by Tom E above.
I noted two additional improvements over my previous pair from DX: much better heat-sinking and memory fade-out in 10 sec (vs. DX 5 min).
Someone please give me a link to a driver you mention that woud be the best for A60. Please
See this thread here, post #8 is my recommendation, although that requires adding AMC 7135's to the driver. I know Tom E has posted this elsewhere, perhaps even in this thread.
-Garry
I would get a few of these
http://intl-outdoor.com/2-pcs-contact-pcb-204mm-p-410.html
as they are extremely useful for modding budget lights, or do the direct drive mod above to save a dollar or so, then use this driver.
http://intl-outdoor.com/amc71356-5mode-circuit-board-nanjg-105c-p-536.html
but add another 7135 chip ( easy on this driver as there are spaces for two more)
here’s a link to the 380ma chips
http://intl-outdoor.com/qx7135-advanced-current-regulator-380ma-p-666.html
order ten because they are useful to have about if your planning on modding,
the jacobs makes an excellent mod host and gives satisfying results, with the driver, note you can select the modes, you can just blob solder but it looks rough, a better solution is to tin a piece of wire, solder across then cut it flush after the fact.
you could also pot the driver (fill the cavity with thermal adhesive) once you know it works to keep everything rock solid.
good luck and any questions, just ask. 
You can also buy a 7x7135 driver at FastTech if your not comfortable with soldering those tiny things.
-Garry
So these from link dont need adding any chips? Just replace original with these one? Sorry for bad English
Thanks
That's a contact board. The A60 uses a 20mm driver and the Nanjg driver (the 7xAMC7135 board) is 17mm. You use the 20mm contact board to adapt it to fit. Wire from the driver inputs to the contact board.
You'd still need these contact boards for the 7xAMC board I linked above too. I'm pretty sure FastTech has them, I just don't have time to search for them right now.
-Garry
english is fine, dont apologise.
that board is a connection board, it screws down where the driver sat. you solder the bat+ spring on the battery side, on the back side there are solder points corresponding to + and -.
solder wires to these, solder these wires to the new driver positive centre spot and driver ground ring.
Here’s a couple of pictures to show what I mean.
Once you know your set up works, you could lay it in the light, then pump/add thermal glue to secrure your driver, it will set like silicon sealer and stop anything moving.
I don’t, but I dont slam my lights about either. You’ll have to decide on that.