Jacob A60 owners, a little attention!

If you do not have one Tom, I still have mine that you sent back to me. I would be happy to send it to Jim.

Hi,

I got this A60 from another BLF user, so I’m not sure from where it was bought. I’ll try to find the pics you mentioned and give that a try.

Thanks,
Jim

Hi manxbuggy and Tom (et al),

I appreciate that! I also have this driver somewhere:

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1122401

How would that work with the XR-E emitter? Would a “good” stock driver?

Edit: In any event, as mentioned above, I’m going to check out gords suggestion first.

1.4a is still not 2.4a :expressionless: you want a 7 * 7135 driver, not a 4 * 7135 driver, I will be going for a nanjg at some point just to give a nice mode spread, the whole point of a jacobs though is a seriously over driven xre, no point fitting a driver thats not going to spank that emitters behind.

my posts are on aged briars a60 thread for the pictures, but you don’t need them, just bell out the + and - on the driver, ot took me ten minutes working on my vans passenger seat with practically no tools other than an iron.

Gords,

Was the post/thread you referenced this one:

?

So, just move the blue wire on the emitter side to the outer contact ring, and the red wire on the emitter side to what looks like (from the 2nd pic) one end of the resistor in the 2nd pic? And that end of the resistor should ohm out to the battery + side on the other side of the driver (i.e., the spring)?

In your post quoted above, you listed modes, but in that post in the other thread (I linked) you said direct drive, so I’m confused about that. Is there still going to be modes after moving the red and blue wires as you suggested?

Thanks,
Jim

Hi,

I got this A60 from another BLF user, so I’m not sure from where it was bought. I’ll try to find the pics you mentioned and give that a try.

Thanks,
Jim

Hi,

I also have this (like most drivers, I don’t remember why):

http://intl-outdoor.com/ld2c-3a-12-cell-circuit-board-p-732.html

Should I try that if the wire moving doesn’t pan out? Or is 3 amps too much?

Sorry for messing up the quotes, so I just figured your “mode list” was basically off and on… pure direct drive :)…

I found the point and will give that a try. Hopefully it won’t smoke the emitter!

Jim

3a wont smoke the emitter, just tom found there is no benefit to going above 2.5a, as for the modes, the modes are off and on :bigsmile: it is indeed direct drive.

dont follow my pictures. set your multimeter to the continuity setting with the beeper. ie touch the probes together, it beeps.

find the positive connections that beep and put your red wire here.

find the connection point that beeps to the ground ring. put your blue wire here (the driver does the modes through the negative side if I remember correctly). check your tailcap reading then check your lux. DO NOT FIT A PAPER SPACER UNDER THE EMITTER, DO NOT DO ANY OTHER RESISTANCE IMPROVEMENTS.

I built a direct drive one up with heavy gauge wire and a contact board and it promptly pulled 3.26a before I broke the connection, I then rewired it as that was bordering on ridiculous.

I just realized that the IOS LD-2C driver is 20 mm :)… So DD it is for this A60!

I did the DD mod, and here’s what I get:

- Tailcap current: ~1.6 amps

  • Lux: 32782 (32.78 Klux)

Disappointing, but also puzzling. I tried with 2 different batteries, a CGR18650 and an Efest IMR 18650 and got virtually the same results.

You won’t go wrong listening to Gords or Tom. Both of them have made A60’s do amazing things. You might hurt your jaw from grinning too hard though. You will be amazed at just how far this little light can throw. Mine is still one of my favorite lights.
Rick

Hi,

Ok, this is where I ended up…

I was struggling to figure out why the low tailcap, even when I switched to DD. In the end, I even tested just the pill itself, and measured even less current, and that was even after switching to 22 AWG wiring from the (now) contact board to the emitter, but still got really low current.

I have to say that, earlier, I mentioned that I had to put a new XR-E emitter in. But the one I put in was one out of my junk box, and I have no idea where it came from (I think that it was from a Tiablo, but not sure), so my conclusion was that the emitter was only sinking the ~1.5 amps.

I don’t have any other XR-E emitters, and I didn’t want to leave the light like that, so…

I had a bunch of different XM-L emitters sitting around, I just randomly picked one that was on a 16mm star (most were on 20mm stars). It was this XM-L U3:

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1189701

I tested the pill outside the light, with my meter measuring current (no tube, etc.) and was seeing about 3.45 amps.

Ok, that’s good.

Put it back into the light, still measuring ~3.45 amps tailcap.

So then I measured lux, and got 46771 (46.7 Klux).

Not as good as a “good” stock A60, but much better than earlier. Plus now, it’s not a pencil-like hotspot, but has a not-so-sharp hotspot with nice spill, and, even close to a wall, there’s no dark spot.

That’s about it for now.

Later,
Jim

weird that you only got 1.6a, I’ve done a couple and had to hold them back.

I still fancy fitting an xp-e2, I think toms already done that though.

Hi,

I know. It was/is weird, but with the testing I did, i basically eliminated everything and was direct driving the emitter and reading current through the emitter, so the only conclusion I could come to was that that emitter just was not able to sink more than the 1.6 amps I was measuring.

I would’ve done tried another emitter type, if I had one, but as I said, I couldn’t leave it the way that it was, so opted for the XM-L U3 :).

I got my A60 from DX yesterday and it only has a tail cap reading of 1.56 Amps at 4.16 volts. :~

I’m very happy with its beam though. It throws about as far as my dedomed K40 with resistor mod and its hot spot is just slightly smaller than that of the K40 at 60 meters.

I admit I get a little confused with all this. But aren’t SK68’s XR-E’s and direct drive? Yet I’ve never seen over 1.8A on a 14500 with them.

I’ve also direct driven another XR-E torch (an MXDL 18650) and that pulls around the 1.8A mark too.

have you tried lowering the resistance on any of them? I had one pulling over 3a with slightly thicker wires.

What?!? A K40 even when stock should completely decimate the A60.

I haven’t I admit. I just thought it was maybe a reasonable explanation why someone else is seeing similar amp ratings.