I got my A60 from DX yesterday and it only has a tail cap reading of 1.56 Amps at 4.16 volts. :~
I’m very happy with its beam though. It throws about as far as my dedomed K40 with resistor mod and its hot spot is just slightly smaller than that of the K40 at 60 meters.
I admit I get a little confused with all this. But aren’t SK68’s XR-E’s and direct drive? Yet I’ve never seen over 1.8A on a 14500 with them.
I’ve also direct driven another XR-E torch (an MXDL 18650) and that pulls around the 1.8A mark too.
have you tried lowering the resistance on any of them? I had one pulling over 3a with slightly thicker wires.
What?!? A K40 even when stock should completely decimate the A60.
I haven’t I admit. I just thought it was maybe a reasonable explanation why someone else is seeing similar amp ratings.
Yes - I did 2 A60's with XP-E2: the one I got does over 100 kcd, other one does 116 kcd listed here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/18214. These are both with the dome though - de-domed should do a lot better, but a fine pencil beam I'd expect...
NightBird - I'm pretty sure the 1.56A you are seeing is normal for the stock light. For throw, it varies based on getting a EZ900 or EZ1000 emitter dye - the EZ900 throws better and it should get in the 70's maybe 80's kcd (EZ1000 would get as low as in the 50's). Also what makes a difference is how well the emitter is mounted - presence of paper disc, thermal grease, etc. There's been many minor variations in the manufacturing of these lights over the last year, but mostly they've been improved more recently.
The K40 is much brighter but their beam patterns are similar and the A60’s hot spot is slightly smaller than the K40’s. I don’t have a light meter yet so I based my assessment of throw on the length of the beam when I shine the light to the sky. 
Thanx TomE.
My A60 doesn’t have a paper disk or a spacer behind the star, just thermal paste and the pill is flat enough. I also think its heat transfer is effective because a few minutes after turning it on high, the neck then the head and the body of the light becomes warm. I’m not sure though whether its dye is an EZ900 or EZ1000.
If you got a good A60 that does in the 80's and the K40 stock does about 90 kcd, there's not much difference, so it may be deceiving comparing the upward beam patterns. Also the A60 is usually a very cool white, so it may deceptively look brighter than what it really is in a beam pattern.
I've done that a lot - pointing lights to the stars, it can work to compare, but on some lights that I know are different throws, it's hard to tell. The A60 has that tight beam, making it look better.
Yes the A60 has a tighter and cooler beam hence its looks deceptively better in the star pointer method. The dedomed K40, though warmer has a beam pattern just slightly bigger than that of the A60’s and their perceived throw in the star pointer method is about the same.
I think its time to get me a light meter. Is the one sold by FastFech good enough?
guys, is it possible to mod this jacob A60 Nanjg driver at 2.45A (or 2.8A). while using the stock LED?
as for thermal paste, what are the better options?
Sure, not much, if any, benefit in output but better options with modes. I use AS5.
what would be a better mod for this light… Besides direct Drive… 
After lots of experimentation and testing, my best mod (and others) for this light is an XP-E2 running on a copper star, somewhere around 2A to as high as 2.8A. Optionally, you can de-dome the XP-E2 and double the kcd. As a stock light goes, this light does pretty well, so the gain from modding isn't significant unless you de-dome of course. Think my A60's with domed XP-E2's came out to about 135 kcd. De-domed will reduce the width of the beam of course, which is already narrow stock, narrower still with an XP-E2, so, de-domed XP-E2 is very narrow but has applications for gun mount and other uses where yo want minimum spill.
I use this driver with adding piggybacked 7135's but there are other options...
I like a de-domed XML or XPG2 in them. Run with a nanjg style driver of your taste.
If driven at about 4,8A the XML gives you about 75 kCd and with XPG2 you get somewhere around 100 kCd.
A note on the XPG2: You have to grind the bottom of the reflector completely off and raise the XPG2 up and nearly into the reflector to get good focus. I had one that consistently measured 120 kCd but I sold that one to a friend and never was able to get that good numbers again.
Fortunately I can't really see the difference between 100 and 120 kCd so it is sort of a theoretical bummer :-)
looking at Link , the XML peaks at its lumens at around 4.2A~4.4A then starts to drop down the scale. for the XP-G R5, it peaks at 2.0~2.2A. maybe the XP-G2 is different?
the highest nanjg is only driving @ 2.8A. any other driver options to drive it 4.2~4.4A? or do i smell some DIY PCB ahead? :bigsmile:
Your looking at 2 year old data
It’s common to drive xml2 over 6 amps, and it works well too
Chris
really. so for the same emitter (XML old vs XML new), they’ve made upgrades? then a re-test should be done perhaps?
or is there an upgrade from XML and XML2 only?
i wonder if i can get my hands on various tints and emitters/bins etc so i can do some test and collect more data. equipments are readily available for my disposal… :bigsmile:
Umm, you were referencing XML data, while the XM-L2 is a new generation - not the same LED, not the same specs. I got XM-L2's on copper being driven at 5A, 5.5A, and 6A and the output still scales up, no drop. Copper star is the important thing, as well as the XM-L2 U2 bin.
why copper star though? not sure bt what it means. the bin also effects the drop and output?
so if i have the XML ones, then the old data is still valid? only the XML2 ones can drive insanely high.