Jacob A60 - Replacement pill?

Ah, of course, if you're looking to conserve night vision and not spook animals, the T13 with its XM-L is off the list for sure. Bigger beam and lots of usable flood (meaning too much flood for certain use).

Some people prefers having a good flood for spotting even for hunting. For each his own. But since you want it tight & no spill - definitely go with the C8 listed above and do the B- wire trick.

Do I mind? Come on, shoot. I probably need more spill-free lights anyway.

Dave - I did the 1Mohm mod to my Jacob, used a small surface mount - piece of cake to do. Works great now, as Pulsar13 posted, off for ~2 seconds, it comes on in high every time. This is your solution to your problem, I believe, if you could find someone to do this...

Also got in today an XRE R2 bin LED - it should take higher currents than the Q5, so maybe I can update the driver to a 3.04A with real memory.

Thanks Tom, good to hear …. just gotta find me an expert now … 0:)

Expert found ! 8)

Big thanks to gords1001 …. he’s gonna mod it for me, top man :bigsmile:

Hey guys,

which smd resistor size is the right one for the driver, 0603 or 0805, or do they both fit?


I’ll have an idea soon, but from the look of the photo, an ordinary small wattage resistor will do the job.

I am thinking that if the drivers different to viffers, the memory mod may not be valid, in that case a nanjg 6 x 7135 driver will be going in, modes to be determined but memory activated, I could also add another chip, to get to 2.4a, although my gut says stay at 2.1a for the marginal gain, you may as well have better run time.

The surface mount part I used is labeled 1004, for 1 Mohm. It fit perfect in the empty spot, basically just had to touch the soldering iron to each end and it stuck. Now I got a 2 second reset to high!

Thanks Tom. I'm planning to do a multi-mod once I have the parts. I'm going to swap the emitter for an XR-E R2, get rid of the next mode memory and remove the ano from the top of the pill.

I did the resistor, removed the ano, and got the XR-E R2 in yesterday! Debating about a driver swap to a KD V2 @3.04A. A couple of other guys are doing the same mods and I think rdrfronty and/or his brother spoke with Erik (E1320) and Erik said the XR-E R2 can take the higher amps better than the original Q5. They plan on doing a 2.8A driver though - I could do a 2.8A driver as well because I got a spare.

Great minds think alike

Does the KD driver go in without modification? I only had a brief look at the A60's driver, but I thought it would only take drivers without any components on the underside of the PCB with that retainment ring.

It's not an easy driver upgrade. The Jacob has an unusual pill setup - driver access is inset and the pill is actually a portion of the body - usually the pill screws into the body (press fit also). I'm guessing the driver is 20mm, and you are right about the screw in retaining ring. One option would be to use a 20 mm blank and sandwhich the real 17mm driver under it, wiring the + and - from the 17 to the 20 mm board, then transferring the original spring. This depends on having enough clearance inside the pill. I got blank 20-21mm boards to use, but didn't check the inside clearance yet. The "sandwhich" technique is commonly used, though haven't seen any details posted on the Jacob light, but it may exist somewhere on BLF. I haven't done a sandwhich mod yet, but have worked with reducing brass pills to adapt a 20mm driver pill to a 17mm pill.

Yes, I also noticed that it's a rather unusual design. Pity it doen't accept standard 17mm drivers.

On the plus side, the heat transfer to the outside is very good!

This post has a link to a driver that can be used, but you would have to add 7135's: johnm post. The driver is 20mm, 1 sided, selectable modes, regulated (Nanjg): I-O driver here. Also, interesting info on the XR-E R2: here at end of opening post, showing it's lumens output peaks at 2.1 amps. With that driver, I'd piggy-back all 3 7135's.

Pic of the surface mount part I used:

KD V2 Driver is there for size reference only.

Found out it's an 0805 size - sorry it took so long to post...

Thanks. The ones I ordered turned out to be 1206, but I suppose the difference in size is very little. Will keep you updated if they fit.

Today was multiple facepalm day, my modding efforts were only partly successful.

My lens from KD arrived, it's ok, but not perfect. There is definitely some coating on it, but it doesn't have that purple tint to it when you look at it at an angle. The coating also doesn't reach all the way to the edge but stops just short of it. I'm going to keep it anyway because it's 300% better than my old scratched plastic lens.

After taking apart the light, I desoldered the led and took the driver out. First thing I found out was that the 1206 sized resistor is exactly so big that it covers up the solder pads. I tried to solder it a little bit to the side of its place on the pcb. I'm pretty experienced at soldering, but I never touched smd parts before. The result looked a little bit jury-rigged, but I thought it would be ok.

Removing the ano was easy, sanding and polishing the pill to a shiny surface took a little bit more time.

Next thing I noticed, I bought an XR-E R2 on a 20mm star that was too big to fit in the pill. So out comes my proxxon (something like a german dremel) and I began to sand away the edges of the star. Took a little time, but it turned out good. When I out the star in the pill, I noticed I had sanded away the + and - markings, but I could figure it out by looking at another star and the positions of the wires on the die.

So I put thermal grease on, soldered the wires to the star and assembled the light. Then I noticed the plastic led cover wouldn't fit anymore due to the big star. Luckily I had some thin XR-E covers from IOS, that saved me the time to make a spacer myself.

At least it worked right from the start. I have no ways to measure brightness, but I thought it was significantly brighter that before. Took it outside tonight, and man, it shines.

But next mode memory was still there, bummer. Think I'll take it apart again and have a closer look at the resistor.

Moral of the story, do what Tom E did and buy a 0805 size resistor

Ohhh, probably could have mailed you one - gotta few extras from where I'm working, they don't use this size much anymore - most of the stuff nowadays is smaller. Probably could just put it in a regular letter envelope? Wonder how much to Germany? Maybe too late?? Oooops.

I showed the 7135 chips to our tech at work, and he said it was much bigger than what he's used to working with ...

No problem Tom, I'm still positive that I can make it work somehow

I'll try it probably again in a few days or so, I've got too many projects in my head...

By the way, usually I build stuff like that:

That's an earlier project from a few years ago... It's a Fuzz effect for electric guitar using germanium transistors.
You see, lots of space in there and no need for smd parts