Jacob A60 - Replacement pill?

As much as i love the Jacob A60 as a rifle lamp, mine has the annoying habit of often starting on fast strobe when first switched on !!

So - does anyone know of a complete pill that will drop straight in that only has one mode?
Or two modes [high/low] would suffice … but no flashing modes!!!

Failing that, is they any way to disable the flash mode on the original pill?

Ta muchly :slight_smile:

You can disable the next mode memory.

Fastest way is to pull of the negative wire on the driver and sandwich the bare wire between driver/body when putting it back in.

Instant One-Mode direct drive! Definitely recommended for rifle use.

Sounds easy enough … am i likely to encounter any longliverty problems by doing this?
Dont want the led frazzled by being direct drive ……


That depends on how well heat sinked the emitter is. And what batteries you use.

If they are not IMR batteries then you should have no problems. I am not 100% sure that the original driver goes direct drive on high, but I do have very good reason to believe it does. So it would make no difference if you run it on high in originally or do this little modification.

I hope that makes sense :-)

Yep makes sense thanks :smiley:

Will take a look in the week … never modded/altered anything on a flashlight before, i assume its plain sailing lol :zipper_mouth_face:

I think you'll be OK. I've direct-driven many recent XR-Es and they can take the amps very well. A couple of years back maybe not so much, but the reliability has gone up since then.

My latest XR-Es seem to take 3.1A before starting to go slightly blue. That's when you know to stop. Direct driving with a standard battery, unmodified spring and wires, I think you'll get 2.6A - 2.7A by using the above method.

At that current, I think it might just blow your socks off if you never seen an overdriven XR-E, especially in an A60 . It really kicks unmodified XM-Ls square in the ball in throw department.

All the best for your mod.

Thanks Pulsar.

I assume pulling wire off pill is a simple easy to tell ‘what wire from where’ affair ?

Never even had one apart before, not quite sure what the internals look like lol 0:)

I'll just quote viffer's post on removing memory to make it easier (link to post seem to screw up over time, maybe because a certain person keeps deleting their posts probably. Whoever that could be.)

Pull off the (-) blue wire, put the driver back and sandwich the remaining bare wire between the driver/body.

Update - did as suggested, pulled the blue wire off and sandwiched it against the body on reassembly.

Made no difference! I still have all 3 modes…. whats gone wrong or have they improved the later models so this doesnt work???

That doesn't make any sense. You should now be bypassing the circuitry altogether and going direct drive.


I know !!

Completely baffled now … blue wire removed from back of battery contact board [where all the circuitry bits are] and now pulled through above it and sandwiched between body and board … still 3 modes.

LOL - guess my first attempt at any sort of modding is ‘suggesting’ i leave it to the experts in future :8)

Any UK based guys willing to sort it out if i post it?

If you have a DMM, I'd do a continuity check between ground (outer ring on edge of board) and the neg LED connector just to be sure these are truly separate on the driver board. I'd like to try this same mod on my Jacob this evening, if I have time - I got a recent purchased Jacob as well. I'll see if mine works or not.

Dont have a meter … i’m usually a ‘plug n play’ bloke … never involved in any modding .

Let us know how you get on Tom :slight_smile:

A simple continuity test shows the neg lead is directly connected to the ground outer ring. Does this make sense? From what I'm seeing, Dave-H is getting the expected results. My driver looks identical to the picture above, except I have a red wire not white. Also, my light came with thermal grease under the LED and no paper disc. It still had the anodizing which I just removed with a brass wire wheel on my dremel. I'll re-mount it with Arctic grease.

Did anyone else successfully do that 1 mode, direct drive mod?

Ok - did the mod of re-wiring the neg lead to the outer ground ring - actually soldered it, and still have all 3 modes, and still drawing 2.35 amps on a fully charged Panasonic 2900 unprotected, same as before. Just did an outdoor test, and wow, this thing can throw - I think it out-throws my mod'ed 7G9 (mod by vinh to run at 4.2 amps), but the 7G9 throws a much bigger spot.

So, only things done from stock was removing the anodizing under the star (no paper disc present), using Arctic Silver Ceramique grease under the star, and replaced the lens with a UCL from Flashlightlens.com. Also wired the negative lead to the outer ground ring but no noticeable effect.

There's probably another way to route around the driver, but wouldn't the amps go through the ceiling on that Q5 with a good fully charged battery?

Apparently you have the drivers that processes mode/ current on positive node, and led/body share common ground.

Unfortunately for these drivers, you need some soldering done. No way around it. You have to remove the led +ve wire, find the incoming battery connection on the board and solder the wire there.

Hey Tom E,

what was the size of the lens you bought? My A60's lens measures 50x1.8 mm, and the closest UCL I found on flashlightlens.com is 52.1x1.9 mm.

Interesting bout the + lead, could try that, maybe this weekend.

That's the lens - 52.1 x 1.9. It is a bit too big - I worked with a sanding dremel attachment on it for a while and only got it down to about 51.95mm. It fits, sort of, but not seated all the way down and the head can't be screwed on all the way. Need more time to work on it - not sure of the best tool to use, but if I get it down to 51 or 51.4 or so, it should fit then. I found most lens have a good 1mm of play - bought 6 different size lens and the A60 was the only one that gave me grief, but it was also the most oversized one.