Thanks Tom, that doesn't sound like an easy task for me. I think I will try this one from KD instead:
Steve - yes, the KD one looks like a better choice - the write-up KD has for it is a little strange but I think they are trying to say it's a good one 
.
Quoted:
In section that out of the ordinary glass lens, we used the highly anti-quake glass, as well as the high tech craft.,namely ,double –side green coating's
Through the entire automated assembly line, we are capable of making a series of lens salon with different caliber or radius
Our experiment proved: Using this kind of double-side coating lens will greatly reduce light beam absorption making sure the lumen output would reach 99% almostly.
KD strongly recommend these series for you guys, They won’t let you down !
$5.04 and I expect that is just for one lens. Seems a little bit steep coming from a Chinese vendor. I agree about the write-up.
-Garry
Yes, the price is a little steep. But at flashlightlens.com I would pay $11.50 including shipping to germany, and then there's a chance I could mess it up when trying to grind it down.
I could get 10 pieces 50.8x2mm lenses at DX for $4.48, but I don't know if these would fit without work. And they're most likely uncoated. And then, what do I do with 9 spare lenses...
P.S., I doubt Google translation is responsible for that fancy product desription
Edit: forgot the DX link:
http://dx.com/p/glass-lens-for-flashlights-10-pack-50-8mm-x-2-0mm-10647
Here, KD says it's Sold Out: http://www.kaidomain.com/Category.225/2/52/releasedata,
and here: http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S004165
Dunno, they are sold out on a bunch of sizes. I saw this before. Even Flashligthlens.com is sold out on a few sizes - I don't get it. The higher price is because of the larger size it looks like - smaller sizes are in the $2-3 range.
So moving the neg wire was a waste of effort 
so how do we convert to single mode easily??
Pulsar13 explained how to do it, but not sure if it's that simple - I would think you would not want to even give power to the driver circuitry if it's not being used, and that may require a "cut" on the board or lifting a pin. Definitely requires soldering so may be a no-go for you? I'm leary of trying it because it sounds like Pulsar13 did not do/test this mod on a A60 board, he's just giving an idea/recommendation. I'd rather not take the chance myself because I have no replacement/backup for the A60 driver board.
If what he's describing is a full end-around of the driver, then basically you are wiring the battery directly to the LED star, and that sounds a little scary. Not sure exactly what protection/safety you are losing. At a minimum, I would think you better be running a quality protected cell - I wouldn't trust the safety of a knock-off brand cell's protection circuit, specially if you are out in the brush somewhere. WHo knows, this may be a common thing that's done by many, I don't know, I'm just not familiar with it myself. I know with my Panasonic cells, I've seen over 5 amps on an XML light with a direct drive driver - Pulsar13 is saying that you would see more like 2.6-2.7 amps on an XRE -- I'm not familiar with how that works.
Well thats me out of it, as you say, soldering etc means a no-go here
So, i cant put up with it as is, so only option is to bin it and buy a replacement flashlight with single [or high/low] mode.
Anyone know of a great thrower that fits the bill?
Please don't bin it or you'll draw the flashlight god's wrath upon you :(
LOL … it would only be ‘binned’ into a drawer with a few others, not literally thrown away :bigsmile:
Too bad about this huh... would have been simple if A60 drives the emitter the regular way. Every driver I've worked with put the + to the LED and - through the driver. Something like this:
B+ -> LED -> Driver -> B-
A60 driver is different in this way:
B+ -> Driver -> LED -> B-
And yes to Tom E, that's what "direct drive" means - directly driving LED with battery without regulation . It's the only "driver" that has 100% efficiency.
Why XM-L drives higher current? Because of low forward voltage of that LED. You can expect a working XM-L to have around 3V Vf or a bit more, but for XR-E it will be around 3.7V.
The difference of battery voltage minus Vf will determine the strength of the current (assuming same overall resistance). So XM-L will always have higher current than XR-E on the same circuit.
If you're still willing to use the B- wire trick, this will work (assuming it's still the same one as what I bought)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120889784258
This one is a great light. Not as tight as A60, but will hold its own.
:bigsmile:
Still only one 
I'm not a hoarder unlike some other guy around here. I forgot his name 
. If it drop to $7+ again I'm in for another one to tinker with.
Must admit I'm an XM-L'olic and dedome'olic, a bunch of my favourite stuff gets a touch of that including small SK68s, how crazy is that. But the C8 I keep as original (except the direct drive part). That should say something about it.
Now Dave-H, tell me, does your rifle light mount has 62mm clearance? Because if it does, look nowhere else other than Small Sun ZY-T13, it's a wonderful rifle light without any mod required. Forward clicky, always start on High, excellent UI, excellent driver, excellent optics, great throw. All bundled for $24.
Whatever gave ya that impression? 
Ya know, I was looking back on my purchase receipts and I just re-realized I paid $7.19/each delivered. That’s almost criminal because ya know what we got. :davie:
I don’t know how ya could resist. 8)
And ya, completely agree with your comments to the gent about the ZY-T13. Whatta screamin’ deal.
Thanks Pulsar13 for the info - that helped a bunch. If Dave could do the mod, or get the mod done, the mod to add the resistor to force a 2-3 sec reset would probably be perfect for him. Mod's function: If the light is off more than 2-3 secs, it will turn on next time in high mode. I think that will avoid the blinky mode completely for his use.
viffer750 did the original post of it, at least one other guy did it, and it looks like a simple mod, for a modder that is ... I gotta try this because I find the mode switching annoying as hell on this light. Then maybe Dave can find someone in the UK willing to help him out with it.
Pulsar - great help thankyou.
I can mount [just] a 62 mm lamp, so looking at the small sun 
Tell me, being an XMl, is it not a bit too floody as well as far reaching?
I have a STL-V3 as a pocket/back up, reason i dont use this on the rifle is because although it has a great range, it also has a lot of flood …… ideally want a defined ‘beam’ as given by the A60
Yea was thinking a C8 with a Q5/R2 ……….
I can suggest a particular light that prolly fits your bill to the tee. I don’t wanna hijack his thread-theme here. I know he’s leaning XML which is great but what I have is a not-so-well known Q4 light that’s amazing in the throw dept. for its size. I mean amazing. And it’s cheap. I know what ya mean about spill and shootin’.
I’m listening 8)
Ah, of course, if you're looking to conserve night vision and not spook animals, the T13 with its XM-L is off the list for sure. Bigger beam and lots of usable flood (meaning too much flood for certain use).
Some people prefers having a good flood for spotting even for hunting. For each his own. But since you want it tight & no spill - definitely go with the C8 listed above and do the B- wire trick.