I did do a bit more work on the light last week, I don’t like the look of the bolt on clip so I cut a groove to fit an EE X6 clip.
Nice! Do you offer sch services? 
Very nice.
I can’t that lathe belongs to work.
I really want to do this.
Did you solve the problem of the red LED (lower Vf) being much brigher than the orange and amber?
The suggestion above to drive the red off one 7135 and the orange and amber off the rest of the 7135s — made my brain freeze.
Are there other emitters in the same colors that would be more electrically compatible for the stock driver?
EDIT: you wrote ” the amber LED is a lot dimmer” — I know the PC Rebel amber has a higher Vf and brightness than the older stock non-Phosphor-Converted amber.
The PC Amber also has a wider bell curve for the emitted wavelength, compared to the narrow spike for the monochrome amber.
Can one of you bright youngsters document how to make this red and orange and amber triple in more detail?
I can follow directions, mostly.
Also — it does look to me like RMM’s spacers for the S and S+ would work for this so I don’t really need to find someone with a lathe YET (grin).
I haven’t done anything about the relative brightness issue. I think that if all three saw the same drive current the brightness would match closer, if they were in series any differences in Vf wouldn’t matter, but you would need a higher voltage driver, two cells and a zener modded driver might work. The other option would be to have separate 7135’s for each LED that would mean running 4 wires to the Noctigon and a custom driver. Custom could mean new board or maybe creative surgery or air wiring on a standard one.
The PC amber Vf curve is close to the white LED curve I don’t know if it would even light up in parallel with the red and orange. it might work in series.
Hank have you reflowed LED’s to a MCPCB, if you’ve done that the rest of the build the way mine is now is pretty simple.
No, I haven’t done that (well, except one I accidentally melted off its board on a really cheap light, and managed to reheat and get back on).
I think I ought to be able to do it. And I really want to try this. Stirring myself up to take a crack at it.
Sigh. Really did hope PC Amber would work
Looking at this: http://www.lumileds.com/uploads/265/DS68-pdf
down at the electrical characteristics table,they do offer bins so it’s possible to get electrically matched red, red-orange, and amber (but not deep red)
All three of those are available with one bin that have the same forward voltage specs:
“minimum” 2.31, “typical” 2.90, “maximum” 3.51
Or, wait, does that mean any individual LED could fall somewhere in that range, or does that mean that all in those bins can accept forward voltage within that same range?
Would getting a set like that fix the unevel brightness problem? Too bad about no deep red with those specs.
Getting three that are in the same forward voltage bin would help, I don’t think Cree bins for forward voltage so it’s a crap shoot, it might be best to go with a two cell host and just run them in series.
Those Luxens are a different solder pad pattern you would need a different MCPCB also.
I haven't wanted to get into 2-cell lights, figuring I'd eventually get careless or forgetful and blow one up.
I may try this next time I have too much money:
Luxeonstar will build triples on 20mm sinkpad2 boards: http://www.luxeonstar.com/product.asp?itemid=8378
I may surrender and try that, for $14 plus (sigh) shipping.
Unfortunately you have the same problem, unless you order 1000 parts they from them you can’t spec bins so it’s a bit of a crap shoot which will be brightest. $14 isn’t that bad, single XP-E color’s are about $3 each plus a MCPCB.
I built a second light with the LED’s in series, using a thin spacer it fits with 2 XTAR 16340 cells. I have the cells charging now, and I still need to program the driver, but it looks like it does light the led’s up equally. I don’t know how much difference it will make in use.
With 2 charged cells I get about 1 amp on max, this is on a 8 7135 driver so it’s VF limited.
cool，Have you mentioned this before and is it yours? Share more pictures ，please！
I got the prebuilt Luxeonstar triple board mentioned above, set up for series since the emitters ought to be about the same power.
Now hunting up a spacer and host and optic for it, as I don’t have a lathe to cut something like you did for myself.
Something with a lot of mass to handle heat. Maybe an X6 with spacer for the triple.
Wondering what to drive it with — LD1 or 2, or the custom driver RMM makes using the BLF-A6 firmware TK wrote
Maybe try a MTN S2+ Spacer in a S2 host I think that should give you enough space for 2 18350 cells.
I think I should have just used a Zener modded fet driver in mine, I only get about 1 amp with a 8 7135 qlite, it looks like the speced Vf on the Luxen LED’s is about the same.
I think a fet + 7135 driver would need custom programming for the mode levels.
Oh, that’s clever. And using two cells in series I can … um. Dang. Have to be smart and have a good memory and a reliable DMM.
Well, well …
2 Protected 18350 cells might fit.
A conversation in IRC reminded me about this thread, here’s a picture of the series wired version without it’s optic. It’s from a cell phone camera that shows the color differences sort of.
