I got a red S2+ host that I was going to build for my wife, not knowing that it wasn’t the right shade of red and she didn’t want it.
I figured out something to do with it, here’s some of the parts.
I’ve proved that reflowing MCPCB’s is not fool proof. It’s a good thing that I ordered more than one.
Not a great picture, I forgot to charge the battery for my good camera so this is from my cell phone. This board works.
The next step is to make a spacer.
Some rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush might clean up that first board. It doesn’t look like you burned the dielectric.
I like the way you are thinking.
two different emitters?
Like RBD said the board may clean up. Your not the first to create something as artistic as this mongeloid board and wont be the last. All the best for the next instalment.
Three different ones.
I made good progress today, I found time to play with the lathe at work.
And I didn’t screw up soldering tonight:
I didn’t take a picture of the driver install but I’m not sure that I’m going to keep that driver. I’ll try and get back tonight for some beam shots.
Excellent. Well done after the first attempt. One question though. Lathe? Have you mentioned this before and is it yours? More pictures please.
Not a first attempt, but it’s my first S2 triple. The lathe is at work, it’s a Hardinge lathe they are somewhat common tool room lathes but in good shape they tend to sell for $5000 or more.
I relearned something today Camera != eye
Here’s a picture of the beam of this light with the optic removed,
By eye there are three distinct different colors, but the camera sees it as all the same color. because they are all close to red.
Cameras have limited dynamic range compared to human eyes. Reproduction of blue LED light is one of worst. We can clear see three different intensity in the pic though.
Some or all of the intensity difference is real, the amber LED is a lot dimmer than the red one. In real life there is a clear difference in the emitter colors, but all three are in the range for the red sensors, and they is no blue or green to detect.
The red LED is much brighter than the other ones in all the modes, I’m guessing that the VF to current curve is a bit different, if the three LEDs were in series it wouldn’t matter but in parallel it’s a problem. The only fix I can think of is to put a small value resistor in series with that LED, I think I can swap one of the jumpers on the Noctigon board with a surface mount resistor. I need to figure out what value resistor to use.
What driver and what current are you running to the leds?
Right now it has a 4 7135 driver so 1.4A on high, and a very sub lumen low. At the same distance from my lux meter I get 50k on high and 5 on low, I need to bump the low up a bit.
You could drive the bright red led off of 1x7135 and the other 2 leds off of 3x7135. Keep the output from the two groups separate but the pwm together and they will all be controlled together.
I measured led voltage and tail cap current in the 5 modes for this light, I don’t know if it’s useful for anyone else but this way I can’t lose the info.
1.57v 1.5mA
1.58v 11.6mA
1.63v 102mA
1.79v 424mA
2.24v 1420mA
Looking at the XPE2 data sheet the forward voltage is below typical on at least one of the LED’s at 2.25v on the chart typical should be 400mA.
oboyoboyoboy, I wish I were smart enough to do this … I think that’s one XP-E and two XP-E2s; which is what color?
The Amber and the Red are XP-E2’s the red orange is a XP-E I couldn’t find anyone with all three colors in stock in XP-E2. The red is the brightest, and the amber is the dimmest.
The only extensive comparison I’ve found online was trom this reef-builder lighting site a couple of years ago: