I saw that Hank has high power UV emitters. I’m going to see if he can do a D18 with 18 of those bad boys
UV-C ones would be even better
PMMA optics absorb uv, only silicone ones will work. I’m not sure Hank will sell it with empty optic holes.
Ahh… I’m sure he could make something far superior to my UVbeast.
Even with the Tropical Depression on top of us right now, USPS delivered me some fine wangle today. I ordered it shortly before the 519A’s were listed, its configured with the Nichia 219BT-V1, R9080 Neutral White, 4500K and boost driver. I’m very happy with it.
Is there any ring I can use that replaces the pocket clip or lanyard ring that fits flush with the body on the KR4/KR1? I have a thick black o-ring in there right now and it’s a decent solution, but I’m wondering if anyone has found anything better.
Also has anybody with d-c-fix experimented with only putting it over the center parts of the TIR wells on their lights to see if it smooths out only the spill, but keeps the center hotsopt in tact? It seems like the dedomed 519A has a well defined and smooth-round hotspot, but the edge of the spill is full of artifacts.
I would be interested to see the beam profile of a dedomed 519A quad with clear optic. I guess a floody optic would smooth those artifacts out, but putting a floody optic on a dedomed 519A is gonna result in a beam that I’m assuming will look as weak as E21A with a floody optic.
This is what I’m trying to decide for my single channel boost driver DW4:
1.) Domed 519A - Clear optic - Best brightness and I’m assuming a beam profile with no artifacts that is close to BBL.
2.) Dedomed 519A - Floody optic - Smooth rosy beam profile but not as bright.
3.) Mixed temperatures domed 519A - Clear optic - Bright rosy beam, but I am not keen on mixes because of the weird dual shadow the beam casts.
4.) 2 domed + 2 dedomed 519A - Clear optic - Example: 4500k dedomed with 3500k domed or 4500k domed with 4500k dedomed.
What you are describing is basically what the Carclo 10622 (narrow spot plain) is. It has a diffuser in the center of each reflector (like most TIR optics do, even those for throwers). The 10621 that Hank likes to use has lenses in the center which brings the spill together towards the center. The carclo website also has beam profiles for both TIRs so you could compare them. Not sure if Hank still has 10622 or if he just always uses the top lens one since it gives more defined hotspot edges.
Hm. I was under the impression that the 10622 is what his lights used by default. The centers of them are very small so it’s hard to tell if they’re defused or not. The edge of the spill on the default optics definitely has artifacts and isn’t too smoothed out. I also have a 1061 on hand, which gives a larger, more defined hotspot, and less spill, but lots of artifacts. The 1063 I have is a little frosted looking. I haven’t tried it out yet.
I think he uses 10622 as his basic optic.
I have 3 different optics with both domed and dedomed 519As. I’ll try to get some beam profiles tomorrow.
“putting a floody optic on a dedomed 519A is gonna result in a beam that I’m assuming will look as weak as E21A with a floody optic.”
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1200 Lumens Max is fine for a headlamp where I want long runtimes without overheating and 5 second turbos
I’ll hold out on 519A’s until we get between 2000-4000 lumens continuous / constant output from 2 or 3 21700 batteries
I’d like to see better cooling and ramped output up to the maximum continuous limit without throttling down after a few seconds
I’ll keep 519A’s in a handheld, not on my forehead
Oh, and a tripod mount might be nice as well…….hint hint……nudge nudge
Wall to wall butter smooth diffusion / unwavering brightness level / 98 CRI and decent cooling capacity is what I’m looking for
Heck, you can even skip the internal batteries and just give me externally powered by USB C (PD) for a small tripod mounted head unit that runs all night long at a constant output level
Make yourself at home, Bullwinkle J Moose!
BLF used to have a couple of squirrels, but they both left quite a while ago.
My KR1 FC40 just died a little. On turn on i have only 1 output, low. And it won’t do a thing. Freshly charged unprotected cell, factory reset and cleaned everything i could reach, no joy.
After removing the head i noticed cell positive spring on driver side is crushed, collapsed, nearly touching one of tiny resistors next to it (maybe it’s touching it)
Emailed Hank and waiting for reply but i’d suggest everyone carrying this model/driver to check how’s your spring holding.
I’m guessing Hank is pretty busy these days, waiting on mine to ship.
Ordered a DW4 5700K DD + 2700K D a week ago (02.06) and it’s still processing.
I’m patient and waiting another week before I send an e-mail, I believe he’s flooded with orders after the 519A release.
Going for a headlamp with some throw for walking and flood for indoor and closeup use, and with that sweet rosyness.
My current main headlamp is a Sofirn D25LR which is pretty decent for the price, I use it more than my Acebeam H30 due to the weight and size.
big order coming
- 4000K-660nm SST20 special for a field medic friend
- 2000K-4500K E21A special for a fellow lighting engineer
- 2700K SST20 + W2 dual purpose for a friend who hikes a lot
- 3500K 519A dedomed boost for mee
The site does not show a headband for DW4. Would you like to see what she looks like?
The headband I received is plain black, does not have the design shown in that picture. Otherwise its the same. I actually find it more comfortable than the one that came with my Nitecore HC60. The elastic has a softer feel to it.
Has anyone found an alternate drop in TIR for the DM11? Maybe with a 20* or 30* spot? And does the existing one fit an XHP 70.3 dedomed?
Using Orbtronic 3500 mAH unprotected for the DW4 with E21A emitters
What are you running?
Sanyo or Molicel ?
Other ?
Has anyone compaired this unprotected Orbtronic with the competition
Been using their protected cells for several years now and quite satisfied