Got this C8 on promotion for $5 from Amazon.
It’s pretty cheap.
Shallow and not great threads.
H/M/L/strobe/SOS driver (1A max).
Plastic reflector with weird 1/2 Smooth 1/2 orange peel.
Angry Blue fake XP-E.
19kcd.
Ugly beam.
Would you keep it because it’s only 5 bucks?
Or would you return it and get your just 5 bucks back?
Yeah, I’m not bashing it for $5, though normal sale price is $10 and “MSRP” is $19.99
I was initially intrigued because they actually advertised it as XP-E and 320lm, not the normal blatant lie of “XP-L T6 3000LM!!!”. I thought maybe since the marketing was at least a little more believable than normal (I still assumed I would be receiving a fake emitter, I was right), but maybe the light would have a bit more quality as well. It’s not awful but it’s not great. The plastic reflector that’s 1/2 and 1/2 OP and Smooth is the part I like the least.
I figured there was a 80% chance I would get a $5 light for $5,but that there might be a 20% chance that I got a $10 or $15 light for $5. And Amazon’s return policy has always got me covered if needed.
i say keep it. u can use the host for modding. if u really really dislike the plastic reflector, just order a metal one from BG/GB/FT. i just did a quick search, a metal reflector is about $2. or just use it as a beater light. u wouldn’t feel bad if it breaks.
I’d say if i paid 5$ and got a 5$ light than i got what is fair . i dislike people who abuse others return policies because they are armed with a bit of common knowledge …kind of like the fact that there even are fake cree emitters out there . I wouldn’t bother over a cheap light .lifes too short… you win some - you lose some .
the upside of cheapo lights is you get to mod and even YOU can make it better you can’t hurt it .//De-dome it ,.do a bad spring bypass,bake it , and sell it as a Sacman mod …$12
Keep it, driver a few dollars mcpcb with emitter $5 new reflector few dollars. Pretty much twice what you paid can have a high output light if you have solder abilities. Mtn electronics has all you need. Even bargin bin LEDs for couple dollars. From lights he removed them from. I’d keep it and mod. Or cheap enough to practice on at least
I made the mistake of getting marginally-better ones for about 8bux a pop. Got a bunch, expecting to mod each one anyway, so I was only getting them as hosts.
Plenty of craptastic LEDs on 20mm stars to pick from, so go crazy. Then again, there’re some really nice XP-E2s out there in wonderful tints and temps. You ain’t gonna push an XP-E2 all that hard anyway, so even though the cheap-ass pill is pretty chintzy, you can get a nice fullsize one from FT for cheap. Also, real Al reflectors, not plastic (and certainly not some weirdo SMO/MOP mutant).
To this day, one of my favorite toys is a 4300K XP-E2 in one of those beasties. Quite a nice tight beam from even that plastic reflector.
Found out, though, that for “real” LEDs and making “real” lights, forget these cheap clones even as hosts, and just get a nice real type 2 (integrated shelf, no pill) Convoy host from FT for 12-13bux. Ain’t worth the ag to try using cheap-ass lights/hosts for modifications, as by the time you get done replacing, oh, let’s see… the pill, reflector, switch, maybe even the O-rings and glass, you’ve already spent more than just getting a good host from FT in the first place.
Oh yeah, you can push an XP-E2 to maybe 1.4A before you start getting too deeply into diminishing returns. An XP-G2 maybe 2.5A. I wouldn’t push any harder in a cheap host with crappy lightweight Al pill. Get a nice solid brass one from FT (about twice the height and thrice the weight), and you can push a little harder.
For me, the XP-E2 is great at 1.05A, and only marginally brighter at 1.4A. Not much more in extra lumenage to be able to tell that much of a difference, even at 33% more current, so I stick with my dumb 1.05A driver (no µC on-board at all, just 3 7135s and a diode).