includes a precise jig system – so I can’t screw up the angle with unsteady hands
flexible enough to sharpen pocket knives, kitchen knives and hunting knives
allows the user to source their own abrasive “stones” (i.e. you are not locked into buying abrasives from jig manufacturer)
Built to Last, both in design and in materials
Preferred budget is under $500 but I could go higher if I had to.
I prefer non-motorized solutions so I can avoid unnecessary material removal during sharpening
I’ve already watched Project Farm’s videos on sharpening systems. I reject the Wicked Edge and Lansky systems because they don’t accept standard stones. The TSPROF is interesting but they have the good kits out of stock frequently, they come from Russia so who knows about delivery, and they are a bit overpriced IMO.
My objective with this thread is to hopefully learn of some lesser-known options.
I have the Wicked Edge system and it really doesn’t get much better.
You can buy just the plastic paddles and affix your own stones.
The kits. even the basic ones, come with enough stones to get knives sharp.
You just won’t find a better, faster sharpening system.
OK, if it still does not do it for you, maybe check out the Edge Pro systems. I have the Apex. I have added quite a few abrasives so I don’t know what model mine is considered. You can get stones and such at many places, but they do need to be cut to size. Different thickness stones do change the angles, so that can become fiddly.
Most controlled angle sharpeners do require specifically designed stones to work properly. So that criteria limits what I can even think of to recommend. In order to control angles, you need standardized stones. If you can back off on this requirement, I probably can throw more suggestions your way.
I’ve been using Lanskys sharpening system for over 20 years now. I use a mix of Arkansas stones, synthetic abrasives and diamond hones. Never failed me and i grt razor sharp edges. For like $90 for the kit and add-on stones (hard Arkansas, black hard arkansas, cosrse, medium, fine diamond, sapphire polishig hone). it’s a bargain compared to others. I also use a $50 harbor freight 1x30 belt sander with 400-3000 grit belts. You can get a guide for that, but i just freehand it for really worn out, chipped edges and blade edge reprofiling before honing.
I’m thinking it might be hard to find stones that fit in the blank paddles? And as you point out, it invalidates built-in angle measuring system which is a feature you’re paying for.
Edge-Pro seems wildly overpriced for what you get with their offerings. Jende makes a pretty expensive jig for $749 but the thing looks like a commercial tool and is fairly substantial in build. I was kind of hoping to hit a more mid-range build for a more mid-range price but perhaps the product I’m looking for simply doesn’t exist.
The knockoff doesn’t look like it’d be rigid enough or long-lasting.
Generic stones should’t be a problem for a truly universal sharpening jig. Instead of printing the angle on the jig somewhere it would just incorporate a digital angle gauge.
I notice many sharpeners require a metallic plate backing with beveled ends on the abrasive. Is this a universal design at this point with off-brand spares being sold widely? Will non-beveled square stones stay in these holders?
I haven’t looked in a while. I had three different guys that would cut stones for the WE paddles. You could get pretty much everything from coarse diamonds to high end Shapton and Naniwa Chosera stones. I did not find it difficult to get stones cut for the WE.
OTH, I never wore out any of the stones that I have. Unless you have a sharpening business and sharpen 100s of knives in a month, the stones will likely last you a lifetime. Check out the WE forums on their site and in lots of knife forums. Yu can see what is available.
The Apex, and clones, have the plates. It makes sense, lots of stones would wear and maybe break when clamping without a backing of some kind.
OK, but having dove deeply into sharpening over the years, I don’t know of anything like this. There are devices that clamp to your blade to maintain an angle. They can work, but as they ride on the stones, they and the stones wear out fast.
Well it might be an issue for initial profiling with coarse stones… But most of sharpening is done with a light touch. I have tried similar units and they can give you a fine edge. I have friends that have been using them for years and they are still OK
Your answer pretty much indicates that to me. Life is full of compromises. The bottom line is being able to get that edge sharp without being able to do it by hand. Unless you are in a high production sharpening situation (then I would recommend much different systems), you may need to adjust your parameters to get there.
BTW, these days I use a bench belt sander/grinder for the bulk of my sharpening. You mention material removal, but depending on the belts and pressure, you don’t have to remove any more steel than hand sharpening. Plus it takes a fraction of the time. https://kalamazooind.com/product/1sm-1-x-42-inch-belt-sander/
An assortment of belt grits and maybe a leather belt and you are set.
The stones fit ON the surface of the paddles. So you do have a bit of leeway. I just use a waterproof double stick tape to affix them.
You never need them to move after they are on there. You can put different grits on the two sides of the paddle. Different thickness stones do require adjusting angles a bit. This is why I got a digital angle gage.
My approach to buying something is usually to go for the longest-lasting and avoid products that rely on an expensive-refills business model. I tend to fixate a bit on what happens when something gets used up–maybe a bit too much although it would normally be a good thing to have in mind.
These sharpeners with the tiny abrasives with backing-plates seem like an excuse to charge the end-user more money for less abrasives. You raise a valid point about how rarely I might actually need to replace them though. It’s also true that for some abrasives the backing plate serves a structural purpose. I just wish there were abrasive clamps provided for generic abrasives anyway.
I appreciated reading about the belt sander approach although they wouldn’t fit well with my apartment living situation. I’ll keep that in mind for the future.
If you get a set of quality diamond stones for - whatever.
As long as you don’t abuse them with too much pressure - the will sharpen a heck of a lot of steel before needing replacement.
All the Best,
Jeff
The guy that started Jende (Chris Taylor) used to frequent the sharpening forums. He was one source for cut stones for the WE. It turns out their original office is within 5 miles of where I live. A success story. He basically started in his garage. It looks like his stuff is pretty expensive… but compared to the last time I bought stones (or anything for sharpening, but then I could darn near open a store with what I have in hand) all of the prices have risen dramatically. I mean doubled and more. But from my experience with him, I am quite sure that anything you get from them will be quality stuff.
If one work on their technique, all that is needed is a cheap two sided (maybe 200/1000 grit) stone (under $30) to get knives very sharp. And for most people last a lifetime. But @CollectEverything wants a controlled angle setup. Which means $$$$…
But with the other requirements maybe becomes unobtanium.
No doubt it is a steep price to pay (Jende). I do like that it says it is good for knives as long as 26". That’s truly a solution for most knives. Even the most expensive Wicked Edge doesn’t match that spec. Not saying I’m ready to shell out $700 yet but that spec does speak
Not sure what the length limit is on the WE. They do sell longer arms to extend it a bit. You can also re-clamp the knife to cover longer blades. I never ran into the limitation. But I have always had other means for sharpening longer knives… so I just used the WE within its limits. I know I did 14" blades with no problems. Which covers even my longest fixed blade hunting/survival type knives. As well as my longer kitchen knives. Obviously it doesn’t get it for short swords/swords/katanas and such. I use the belt and had stropping for those.
My question is more how well it works on short blades? Small blades even got to be a bit fiddly with the WE. With it single clamp.
Wicked Edge is the de-facto recommendation if you got the funds for it. I prefer the slow and steady process of whetstones when time allows, but most of the time, I’ll just reach for the Spyderco Sharpmaker for “good enough” results. It’s not perfect, but the system is simple enough to use and small enough that it takes up very little room. Add some coarse diamond stones for reprofiling really beaten edges, and its good enough.
Here is a place that seems to sell most of the high dollar systems not normally seen in one place.
Not a lot of info.
There are pictures so they can be compared,
All the Best,
Jeff https://www.gritomatic.com/
I bought an inexpensive ($19) knife sharpener about ten months ago.
I’ve only sharpened one knife one time with that sharpener.
That’s how frequently I dull my pocketknives.
I wouldn’t typically suggest this…but as this is a BUDGET light forum, how about a BUDGET KNIFE SHARPENER.
I have used mine for 30+ years on all of my wife’s kitchen knifes. She doesn’t complain, and in 3 strokes I have a pretty sharp knife for several months:
Okay, this is not for CollectEverything.
Here’s my budget sharpener… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010O4OCCS
It’s exactly what I was looking for.
It sharpens to a 20 degree angle, and it’s quick and easy.
It’s definitely not for everyone, though.
