WarHawk, don’t you have a small o-ring somewhere? Put it around the clip to act as the spring, it’ll hold the clip on the ATiny13A while you leisurely hit the keys yourself.
They should work when on the pcb, even while connected to an LED. The LED will flash multiple times when it’s done writing if you have it hooked up. 
The harness is a 10 pin connector with a ribbon cable coming out of it… the ends are bare and I solder them to the legs on the chip. So it’s even more trouble than what you do now.
I have flashed the chip and put it on a 105c to test. It works. PWM seems slow, as expected/desired. 3 modes, as expected.
The little claws got buggered up on the cheap plastic SOIC clip…so I used an exacto to trim off the little plastic claws leaving only exposed “fingers” have to hold aligned perfectly on the pins or it slips right off…nothing to grip the pins like it did when it was new
The TexasPyro builds…can’t get them to flash anymore…so will have to pull the chips and try that
I got some new regulators today, should I rebuild a board and test it with this firmware?
(We really like Bar-B-Que’ing in Texas!) 
Sure! I find no memory annoying with the on-time firmware here. It “forgets” the current mode in <1s, so you have to turn it on and immediately switch to the mode you want.
I have the board that the mcu side was never populated, I’ll re-flow the regulator off and put a new one on, then build the mcu side using this firmware and see what happens. That’ll be tomorrow, as it’s late now…
Here’s a version compiled with proper LVP for 2s using a voltage divider of 100k/7k (like mentioned in the revised OP). I set it based on math so I was very slightly conservative. Also realize that this firmware currently uses 8bit values (0-254) for taking that reading, so it’s pretty rough with a 0-16.8v measurement range! The resolution is only 0.07v or so, plus it’s got the +/-10% based on that 1.1v reference voltage… it’ll probably still work fine. In the future we can tweak it for 10bit values (0-1023) which will give a much higher resolution voltage reading. Remember to replace R2 and R3 with the 100k and 7k resistors.
http://photo.jesusthepirate.com/blf/Knucklhead/Knucklehead_Testing_Firmw…
http://photo.jesusthepirate.com/blf/Knucklhead/Knucklehead_Testing_Firmw…
If you want to re-enable memory simply find this section:
uncomment the second line, comment the third line.
Most of that made sense, but I don’t exactly know what “comment a line” or “uncomment” means. I could assume, but I’d rather ask.
Also, Wight, PM sent…
The //’s?
I would have made it more complicated.
Wish me luck in the morning, I’ll be building another….
Night all!
In other words, change it to read like this:
// Not soldered (1) should enable memory
memory = ((PINB & (1 << STAR4_PIN)) > 0) ? 1 : 0;
// memory = 0; // disabled memory
Wikipedia works!
??
I looked up “programming comments” on Wikipedia to find those //.
ah…nice!
In Linux you comment out the line with #
It took me a little bit to correlate the // to # when looking at the code
Truthfully it helped alot when I got Notepad and it color coded the text for me…alot easier to sort thru it like that
*sigh*
In the process of transferring parts from my working Knucklehead (the one without an MCU) to my own board, I must have fried the LED2001 IC. I get nothing. I thought it was the firmware but I removed the MCU and connected pin 2 of the LED2001 to VIN (ties PWM high). I get nothing.
I only have one IC on hand, so I will have to order more tomorrow. Yay!
Dale you can stop anytime and tag team and let someone else burn up a few. Save a few bucks for the next round.
So cooked mine. I had the heat on my r-eflow gun up WAY too high, and kept the IC too hot for too long. Pretty peeved. Not a total waste though as I confirmed that the voltage regulator puts out a nice 3.3V at every input voltage from 1S up to 4S. Not that it was ever in doubt. Actually that's what has me stumped. I have tested the buck converter as working. The ATTINY is a given. The voltage regulator works. The problem seems to be getting them all to work in harmony!!!
Would a slower PWM frequency into the DIM lead be better for the driver?
Say below 2Khz?
Still trying to wrap my head around all that daggum math…hah
Anyone on the Attiny code side want to show us how to set the ATtiny to deliver a MUCH slower frequency PWM to the DIM lead on that chip? It just might be too darn fast
What is the slowest PWM frequency before it starts to get annoying 250hz, 1Khz, 19Khz??
You won’t see the pwm signal in the light output.