So then a very slow PWM (250hz or whatever) could be fed to the LED2001PHR DIM pin and it won’t cause the light to PWM out just dim down, correct?
I don’t know whether this Micrel MIC5235 is cheaper than LT1761 or not but it is pin to pin compatible with LT1761 and it just requires a 2.2uF output capacitor, Vmax=24V and 150mA Imax.
Well, I was going to flash a new ATiny13A with the .hex file from wight. But in copying it, it was majorly messed up in notepad. So, I opened the file and copied it from online, went to build a new project with it. When it was done, it said there were 45 errors. From a C in command line to errant # and on and on.
So how do I get the proper .hex file to flash this puppy?
EDIT: I found it, copied it again and got it to build, must have not captured something in my first copy. ATiny13A flashed with the new firmware, I’m going in….
I got the ic replaced, put the ATiny13A on the reverse along with C4,C5, C6, U3 and as I put R2 on the board I remembered these were changing. R2 was 10K and R3 was 3K. I don’t have 100K and 7K resistors on hand. I looked in my electronics toolkit and , oops, just remembered, I don’t HAVE an electronics toolkit!
I got 10 of the Coilcraft inductors this morning, direct from Coilcraft via FedEx. Now I’m gonna have to order a few of these new resistors as there is simply no place around here that has 0603 package resistors. Dead in the water for a couple of days, unless I can find a 100,000 and 7,000 on some drivers I’ve replaced. What are the odds?
Easiest thing to do here is bypass LVP for now. As I mentioned earlier I’m not sure all of this is necessary, but here goes: leave R2 and R3 unpopulated, then wire the voltage sense pin to VCC. The MCU will always get the maximum reading in this case.
You don't need those two resistors (R2, R3,) they are just for voltage monitoring. You can run without, they weren't doing anything for you anyways.
Ok, LVP is not a big deal for me anyway, don’t recall ever having a light go into protection and would be surprised if one did, wouldn’t know what just happened.
VCC is pin 8, voltage sense is pin 7, right? Solder those 2 together?
Or just leave R2, R3 unpopulated? (thanks RMM)
Just leave them unpopulated, don't bridge anything!
I can’t look it up right now, but both Mattaus and RMM say it’s ok to not populate those so I think that’s fine. I just wasn’t certain what a floating ADC would do.
I've done this tons of times with the 105C drivers. When I want to do a quick LV disable for NiMH or otherwise I just remove those resistors. No need to overcomplicate things.
I agree!
Using the 3x3x3 block for the aluminum star and XM-L, with a Solarforce switch wired in between the negative lead to the driver…
Remembering to start at low and work up each time (forgot at first. :P) With 2 Sanyo UR18650FJ at 4.16V ea. for 8.31V combined…
.01~~.02 Low, .46~~.47 Med, 3.64-3.63A High.
She’s working! 
BRB with some Voltage measurements and a blind attempt to type em in…
2.39V, 2.49V, and 3.09V
Edit: These are all emitter readings. Amperage as well as voltage taken at the emitter, (amperage on negative lead between emitter and driver)
Same operation, stable, no flickering or visible PWM. Just solid reliable mode changes and it appears to be working exactly as it should.
Ready to add a cell?
Oh yeah, tail readings are .04~~.05A, .26~~.27A, 1.74-1.75A …this new clamp meter makes this kind of stuff easy peasy!
Maybe you should just run it for a while as is, check for reliability before putting it into a light. See if any components are getting too hot to touch.
Led current?
I have a IR gun!
Started blinking then stepped down in 30 seconds, with the IC running 108º, but jump-back-jack hot to the touch.
If it was reading 108 but it was too hot to touch then your readings are wrong, friend. I think that IR gun is not going to be very good for measuring small components on a board like this.
Scott, the initial numbers were all at the LED,
.02A at 2.39V
.48A at 2.49V
3.64A at 3.09V
Tail readings showed .05A, .27A and 1.75A.
Richard, I do believe your’e right. The opening to the gun is 1”, the entire board is smaller than that! I almost had the driver inside the opening, not much I can do but burn my fingers.
It wasn’t really getting hot on Low or Medium, but High heated up quite fast.
I wonder if 3.5A is enough to fry the tiny MOSFET inside the IC? Ratings be damned…
Yeah, that's what I'm wondering. If it's getting too hot to touch in 30 seconds it isn't going to last long at all.
I don’t know if this means anything but George(Taskled) recommends heat sinking the top of the converter and I think maybe the inductor as well as the thermal pad on his drivers when running them at high power. I have some small IC heat sinks and could send you a few. What does the underside of this chip look like? Does it even have a large solder pad anywhere or just the pads? Is one of the pins designed to dump heat to a large trace area?