fwiw, Hank has KR1AA in stock now.
Jackson is expecting a new shipment any day now.
Some history of the KR1AA model development variations:
People on the forums use the term V1 for the batch sold by Jackson in December. It was distinguished by No Physical Lockout, and Not glued head. It included a version in Raw Aluminum. All the original V1 are sold out.
Then the term V2 was applied to the batch sold by Hank starting in January. It is distinguished by Yes Physical Lockout, and Yes glued head to protect some wire loops added to the driver. The V2 tailcap contact ring and inner black tube design are also different than the V1 batch. Hank had a version in clear anodizing that he termed the Polished Silver color. All the original V2 are sold out and the present batch does not offer Polished Silver. This first batch from Hank had free spinning clips. People complained and Hank made a change in the next batch.
In lights received in February, we observed that Hank had added a second groove machined into the tail end of the body, along with an O ring, that prevents the clip from spinning freely. A couple of people have used the term V2.5 to refer to that O ring addition.
Now in March there is a new batch available. No one has received a March batch KR1AA yet. Im not aware of any changes to the design.
Hank has not announced any planned future changes to the KR1AA design.
A review of known issues and their solutions:
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Triple Blink (low power startup error) when closing the light. This is solved by keeping the contacts clean.
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Non Responsive tail switch. Solved by closing the tailcap tighter.
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Clip spins freely. Hank added a second O ring under the clip, so it does not spin freely anymore.
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Tailswitch pressure too low for two people’s personal preferences (specifically two highly experienced modders). I personally have no had any problem with the stock tailswitch. Info on switch mod here.
Those people also did not like that pressing the edge of the switch button, does not work to turn on the light. I dont have that problem.. I dont press just the edge of the button. My buttons work when I press them normally. info on switch edge pressure mod here.
But retaining rings are glued and switch mods are only for experienced modders. Hank recommends that the majority of people not try to modify the tailcap, as it takes some skill to adjust the switch to clic properly.
- There were a few complaints from people whose switches did not work. Hank sent them complete new lights. A few of the people that were vocal about free spinning clips also received complete free replacement lights.
There have also been a few complaints that the switch worked with the plain tailcap, but not with the trit tailcap. Hank has given refunds for trit caps.
Hank has been extremely responsive about any complaints.
- Some people wish the KR1AA was more throwy.. I recommend buying the Lumintop FW1AA instead.
The good news:
My lights no longer give triple blink errors. Both my Magnetic and plain tailcaps work. After cleaning the threads and using a small amount of fresh lube, mostly on the Oring area, my lights are closing and working reliably. I have no issues with switch pressure being too low, nor with the switch not working.
I enjoy my KR1AA’s very much.
V2.5 Polished (left), V1 Raw (right):
ImPatiently waiting to hear if Jackson offers either of those two finishes, as I would like to buy one more. 
