These 2 pics are with a Canon 20D, manual mode, taken in RAW. No camera settings are applied in RAW, this is what the imaging sensor picked up. Shutter set to 1 second to approximate what the eye sees. ISO 100, f/4.5.
I measured 3.585Vf on mine with a 710mA current draw on an Efest Red V2 button top IMR18350 cell that’s seen some use. The Kaidomain light has a fresh Sanyo FJ cell.
Kaidomain P-60 drop in
LED ENGIN LZ-1
10’ away from the camera sensor. The bright orange disc on the book shelf is actually a slice of geode that has been impregnated with a purple die.
Base image under the overhead lights with camera in Auto WB, Auto Focus and JPEG large.
Congrats on selling the light, it is a great light!
But I do not really understand the current you get with a lineair driver (with no boosting). Either your led is way out of spec, or it is a different one than the LZ1-00UV00 that I used for my small zoomie mod, that claims the following (from the spec-sheet):
What I read here is that with a fully loaded 18650 with no voltage losses underway and no sag at all (so 4.2V) you can still expect only 800mA, in a normal flashlight situation less than 600mA. What do I miss?
Thanks for the info, Dale! So I should not have bothered running mine with a boost driver then. Pretty weird that Ledengin publishes charts that are completely wrong .
I’ve been eyeballing those charts as well, and wondering about the same thing. They also state a variance in the 365nm wavelength when driven at other than 300 or 700mA, which is why I was targeting 700mA.
At only 700mA current draw I wouldn’t expect an IMR cell to sag, even a 800mAh IMR18350. But testing mine did show that 3.6Vf which is well below the claimed numbers from LED ENGIN. Should I pull the neg lead and check emitter current with my clamp meter? I’m using a Qlite with 2 7135 chips left on it.
BTW, I have the spec sheet on that emitter from Intl-outdoor. Hank sent it to me when I asked about the max current recommendations. Mine isn’t here yet, but should be soon.
Hey, that is interesting!, can I have that to see what I measured is what is claimed? (btw, I did not measure absolute output because I can not measure light output in Watts, I only have luxmeters, not calibrated light power meters)
If you are interested in making another UV light, not necessarily in the same host, let me know. I have a cheap drop in now and might want to get something better. Drop in has a lot of 405nm in it so a pure UV would be cool. Couldnt bring myself to drop $100 after recent spending sprees but that is a sweet light, well actually lack of light
I’d be happy to, PM me and we can talk details. I have 2 more LZ1’s on hand, I’m going to be going a different way with my TN30 project so I dont need the two I have for it.
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