Could you name the company?
How do the wires compare to teflon ones?
I haven’t tried the cables from this company (Nessel Elektronik) yet, but I plan to. They were recommended by some modder(s) in the German flashlight forum. The cables with the thin insulation are called “NeG”, “N” or “GG” (not “EG”), see here . The cables are produced here in Germany.
Teflon wires are more difficult to use because they are less flexible and it’s more difficult to remove part of the insulation for soldering.
@led4power, what do you mean by a spring which could make spring bypasses obsolete?
The absolute highest current option will always be a bypass, but I am still very interested in your idea.
Edit: Well, except for a solid contact, but that does mean cell tolerance is greatly reduced, along with the potential for shock absorption.
Thanks! That’s indeed very thin for silicone, though doesn’t get to the teflon range.
No, the absolute highest current option is springless contact. Like DQG Tiny or Lux-RC FB1.
It’s pretty easy if you can restrict battery size or create some carrier. Look at vape mods.
Resistance should be as low as bypass, while maintaining "springiness" as typ. spring,it's not solid contact.
(Im)patiently waiting 
I'm really sorry, I forgot about your question, 18AWG wire I used has 2.3mm outer diameter and 1.1mm core diameter.
Thanks!
I was actually thinking about the availability of your new products.
Small question: Would the Samsung LH351D emitters fit on your MCPCB for the BLF Q8 despite having a 3535 footprint while the MCPCB only has 4040 or 5050 footprints?
Just get a proper 3535 mcpcb if you need a new original one:
Thanks for the info, but I still would prefer a board with emitters soldered to it as I don’t have a proper setup to solder them myself.
Sorry about that too, I've been so busy last 2-3weeks, that's why there is delay.
Take your time! I like your products because you do things the right way. This will be the first safe 30A single-cell flashlight (when using an actually 30A capable battery, there aren’t many).
Have you thought about adjusting the low-voltage warning in the regulated modes above 12A? It might come on too early at 30A because of the voltage drop in the cell.
If any future version of the LED4Power firmware had a blink out for voltage I would love that. Some of my lights sit for a while between uses and I cant remember what voltage I left it at.
Everyone who have 3+ flashlights have met this problem…
I mean you are part of the problem. Making unique parts so I build more than I can use! Maybe a little pocket multi meter with fixed pins and I can unscrew the head and just lay it over bat + and the tube?
PS; I should have a build for C8TT in a week or two. Going to use 2 different Luxeon MZ emitters and LD-B4 driver, quite excited about this one.
I can add some voltage readout,that's no problem. I will need to make some kind of wish-list of features for future drivers. By the way, when you have linear CC driver (not fet DD) you can easily see when battery is not fresh, because high mode fades, while all other modes remain constant.
I doubt any LED will draw 30Amps when battery voltage drops <3.5V,and at 3.0V (LVP1) current should drop to more sane levels, so I think LVP correction is not needed. This correction should be different for each battery which is difficult to implement.