Ledil Crystal, coming soon

Outside of lux meter readings, these might offer more than what is derived from botched performance data. After looking at OL's SRK build threads, Im pretty interested in what a carefully optimized TIR might do in the outdoor environment. I know this is a rough comparison, but it does illustrate a point. From Old-Lumens SRK build threads:

Mouse out: SRK with stock reflector

Mouse in: SRK with FT 20mm 15-Degree Optical Lens

I think a large tir has the drawback of lower efficiency than a reflector due to absorbtion of energy but a potential offsetting benefit is the ability to achieve a tighter focus in a shorter depth leaving more room for heatsinking, drivers, etc. Also, something often forgotten in the comparison between tir optics and reflectors is a reflector still needs a glass lens which adds cost for high transmition or adds to losses if cheap glass is used. Pmma isn’t as durable as glass but even glass gets scratched and pmma can be repolished.

^^ That.

As I posted in MrsDNF's TIR thread, the FT/IOS 10* part is nearly identical in beam profile to a smooth P60 reflector when using the same LED, but in a much smaller/shorter package.

I have an MTE flashlight with a large high quality TIR, and it was useless behind an XML till I swapped in a C8 reflector. Maybe it would dance well with MTG2… another mod trial for a different time.

Lets wait and see what Ledil comes up with. It doesnt make sense that a company like that would go through the expense and trouble of manufacturing a large and comparatively expensive opic when a FT 20mm might do better. But then, who knows what companies will do these days? Fingers crossed that they will perform at least as well as a C8 reflector.

TIR optics are designed for use in office and household environments. They are used for spot lighting from above. They blend spot to spill just about seamlessly and they make the eye think it's all one smooth beam. The object is not to be super efficient, but to produce a spot in a very short distance, as in a few feet. The fact that they produce the spot and spill smoothed together within a very short distance, is why they are made. They were never designed for flashlights. They just happen to work for us in some applications.

If you want a thrower, then the best ones will always be an aspheric lens, followed by a mirror finish reflector of a decent diameter. Even "tight" optics will give a widening spot that opens up quickly. I like them because they give a smooth beam, comparable to a stippled or OP reflector and that's just my preference. I also like them because they do that with a very short optic, which translates to more modding opportunities, due to less room needed.

As far as molding them, it sounds like they tried to run them in a molding machine with too low a tonnage and the clamp couldn't stay closed during the injection process, blowing the mold open, or the barrel was too small and there wasn't enough shot size to fill the mold correctly. I imagine they are still a month or so away from any real production. The next shop will have to develop a process and submit samples for spec, before they can run production.

Thanks for your expert opinion OL. I just revisited my 42mm TIR and compared it again to the FT 20mm. As others just pointed out, the thickness of the plastic definitely has a huge impact on cutting lumens WAY down. Looking at the mechanical drawings of the C12916_CRYSTAL-RS, there is an 8.2mm cavity above the emitter mounting location, so the emitter must still penetrate 19.2mm of plastic before photons escape through the font of the lens. Unless Ledil came up with an optically superior transparent plastic, the Crystal is probably intended for aesthetics for indoor lighting; as you had pointed out.

The Idea was to mount 32 of these in a DIY light bar, with holes drilled though 50” x 5” black plexi sheet to center them. Then I wouldnt have to have a clear plexi lens over the array (that would cut lumens). Oh well, I’ll give one a try once they’re available and report back.

Id love to run 16 HD2010 reflectors + 16 Ledil Boom reflectors. To bad we cant find a source for the 2010’s. The DX SST90 reflector is still a contender, but Id need to stagger them in a small arc to make the best use of 16 beams from that section of the array and that still might be a bit to focused to be of any use while wheel’in.

That DX SST90 reflector is the best MTG-2 reflector I’ve come across for creating a hot spot.

Its supposed to be killer with the XML as well. I wonder if it would focus to tight a beam to be useful for an offroad pickup. Do you have any ideas? There would be 16 in the array. I could probably shim them slightly left and right to cast an arc rather than just one mega bright useless culminated spot, but that still might not be enough.

I wonder if that DX reflector does a better job focusing the MT-G2 into a hot spot than the Solarforce M8 hybrid reflector, or the Solarforce S2200 OP reflector, still trying to find a reflector from a S1100 for the mirror finish to use in my S2200. Solarforce won’t sell an S1100 reflector as a stand alone unit.

I’ll gladly try this DX one though, even if it’s smaller. (which it is) JB Weld stick is wonderful for making adapters. :wink:

Its $160 for the DX reflectors so Id like to know more about them before I buy. Thanks for the JB Weld stick idea. I was thinking about using pvc tube for a support ring with JB weld epoxy, but the stick sounds even better.

The stick is easy, comes in a roll like a jelly roll, cut off an approximate amount and knead it to mix the 2 parts…since it stays like a putty it’s pretty easy to put in place and shape, a wet finger helps smooth it down and keeps it from sticking. I like using the Water Weld, it’s white though. But it sets up fast. It’s my next go-to in a light over the expensive Arctic Alumina Thermal Compound, which I like to use when potting.

How well does it fit a Mag D?


I havent seen the Water Weld yet. You use that to fujic the stars? lol. Ive been using the super low viscosity super glue (with high clamping pressures till it dries) with great success. Heat transfers far better than fujic and it sets up in about a minute or less. I buy MX3 tubes on ebay when they come up for sale and its more than adequate when there are high clamping forces to push the reflector against the star.

Did you ever try out your DX SST90 reflector with XML?

Its far to large.

It’s 73mm in diameter. It doesn’t fit a mag.

Nope, I use either Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive or Arctic Alumina Thermal Compound depends on whether I feel like it’ll be getting changed or not. If I’m putting the copper star in a copper pill, I re-flow it in with Kester solder paste.

Sometimes I pot a driver that has a lot of chips on it, and especially when I’ve stacked chips on the battery side of the board. When I do that, I usually put a solid brass rod on the positive pad of the driver so that I don’t have to worry about spring compression causing a short on the stack of chips. Potting the soldered legs of the chips helps me feel better about the short possibilities too.

This is the kind of stuff I worry about when I’ve got 22 chips on a Qlite. :wink:

So what’re the best reflectors for a Mag D?

For MT-G2, the stock Mag LED reflector. For XM-L, there’s two reflectors from CNQG. Here and Here. Believe it or not, the shallow one will produce a tighter spot, with a smaller spill ring.

They both have to be "fitted" into the head. Nothing aftermarket fits exactly.

The shallow CNG will out throw the rebel mag reflector with XML?

The spot is about a toss up, but it's a smoother transition from spot out, unlike the LED maglite reflector. I like it better. I don't have lux ratings between the two, but by eye, I think they throw just about the same.

Lux readings between the shallow CNQG and deep CNQG show the shallow one a little higher reading.