Let's try to strart a new BLF project light in AA format

I have a Klarus P1A kicking around, tailswitch but 100 lumen high and twist for 10 lumen low.
1 hour on high and 12 hours on low on a 2000mAh NiMH.

Also a Romisen RC G2, 100 lumen one mode. tailswitch.

You might be able to find these kicking around somewhere.

Thanks jon, gonna order a couple.

There is a limit of 2 and the color is desert tan, $7 each plus $4 shipping from china. Had about 100 left in this sale.

What’s a vampire circuit?

Probably referring to the parasitic drain.
The parasitic drain on my SP10 pro:
54µA - 14500
44µA - AA

I would say that “vampire” lights are the ones that can drain a battery down to its usable limit!
Joule thief, cockroach, vampire are some of the names given to such lights.
The Sofirn C01 is one of those, in which you can use a cell virtually to 0V.

The cell currently in my C01 is at .65 volt. It will start and run, but gradually dims as expected although still usable in a dark house even via ceiling bounce. If I turn it off, i must wait for a few minutes before it'll start again. I use it most mornings when I first get up so I don't trip over a dog while wandering into the kitchen to turn on the coffee pot. I check the cell every two or three days for signs of puking.


I was gonna suggest not waiting for that to happen, as corrosion happens very quickly.

Lumintop must believe there’s a market for compact AA/14550 twisty. This simply looks like an Lumintop EDC01-AA.

I still think Sofirm missed out on a C01S-AA, Even the same driver/emitter put into an AA host would have worked, and be inexpensive.

The encapsulated hi-CRI 5mm AA lane is still wide open :wink:

good find, might be a good host for an LED upgrade.

Mode sequence is MLH,
plus Last Mode Memory :confounded:
and Low CRI :confounded:

afaik, the OP already decided to buy Sofirn C01S w High CRI SST-20 4000K :+1:

I just received an EDC01, I expect the Green Tinted Low CRI Samsung LED will be the same in the EDC15

my plan is to swap out the LED, but so far I have been unable to unscrew the pill. It is glued in, and a 30 second dip in boiled water did not solve the problem. I suppose a soak in acetone might help, if the adhesive is superglue. I tried soaking in isopropyl alcohol, but that did not help. So far all I have to show for my efforts, is bent tweezers :cry:

if anyone knows how to Remove Last Mode Memory, please educate me.

Wait… what?

There’s LMM, NMM, and nomem. LMM good, NMM bad. Mem or nomem is personal preference.

And MLH[ML] is just [ML]HML as long as memory is in effect.

My not-so-li’l Xeno E03 is MLH with nomem (yecch), so yeah, it always starts on M after being off for a while.

Does anyone remember the UI of the 4sevens Quark series?
There were 2 output groups, selectable via twist. In this image, you can see the contact ring on the PCB:

When loose, the sequence was low-mid-high-sos-beacon, when tightened, the sequence was turbo-strobe.
I convinced a lot of friends to buy these lights, as they were foolproof to operate. You could start them either in low or in turbo, or switch between these two in an instant, and this without mode memory. I don’t really need these blinky modes, but apart from that, the best UI I have come across yet.

And here’s the kicker: With all these advanced programming possibilities we have today, we could program, for example, an individual Biscotti (Flashlight User Interface Cheatsheets) for each output group.

This would emulate the Quark UI without blinkies:

Loose: 0.1, 1, 10, 50 (w/o memory)
Tight: 100%

Or you could have the same output group for both loose and tight, but once without, and once with memory. So you could use the twist to switch momory on or off.

Think of it, the possibilities are endless…

Or, for twisty fans, the end switch could be replaced with a cap and the programming could be switched to “twisty mode”. This should all be possible with today’s hard- and software.

The product would truly be a flashlight for everyone, if the manufacturer included a swith cap and a normal end cap.
You could have a clicky or twisty with the same product, and you could set up modes and memory as you wish.

And this concept would also work for other light types, not just AA.

What do you think of this idea?

fwiw, EagTac D3A and D25A also have that twist head UI group switching.

I do not use the Turbo Strobe mode, and I dont think it would help the OP… he wants a much simpler light, that someone with no training could use without getting confused.

Yeah, I still got a coupla the 2AA-Xes floating around. Hated the cycles, but loved the twisty.

Would be great for “EDC” mode (lmh with mem) and “quick turbo” (100% only). That, and get rid of the pea-soup green emitter, and it’d be one Hell of a light.

if you want reliable, i would not use anything alkaline

if you let them sit around, they run down, do not work when you need them, and usually have ruined the flashlight too

an emergency light needs something with lithium, like CR123A format, or 18650 rechargeable

CR123A can sit for 15 years and still work

and not leak ever
even if it quits working in 20 years of sitting

alkaline is lucky to sit 24 months without failing

[maybe someone said this already, i only read about half the replies]


Except for the high CRI, the flashlight you need is already on the market, as other reviewers have said before: the Jetbeam Jet 1-MK. It has three modes, but by having mode memory you can turn on the mode you want first; it’s Twisty, AA, small, clip, powerful enough; it has no visible PWM. In addition, it supports lithium-ion, if necessary. Head turning is very good as the O-ring is very well dimensioned, just like on the Jet-u AAA.

I have two Jet 1-MK’s and the non-knurling bezel on the head can be unscrewed without damage if it is well protected, giving you access to the led for a high CRI mount; It would only be necessary to find a lens with a diffuse narrow beam and it would be the perfect edc, like the Jet-u with warm light on my keychain.

Exactly. Emergency lights have to be lithium. Li-ion is great for normal flashlight use, but emergency lights are a completely different use case, prioritizing long shelf life and reliability above all else, and you need to use the best tool for the job.

What’s the problem to use Eneloop against alkaline? For one year it will lost only 10-15% of capacity, every New Year check and charge )

And i can’t understand author position. Additional emergency tiny flashlight… with no different modes? What for emergency? Especially, if another bigger flashlights anyway with declared persons?

If this really emergency cituation, better to have food, gas mask, or, at least, flashlight which could be used for different scenarios and very moonlight (if, as example, earthquake and sitting under broken building) and very bright (for giving signals if lost on large territory.

By the way, i am pretty sure, that something like old Manker E02 with AAA Eneloop would be best choice for author purposes. It could be used as headlight with piece of t-shirt, fixed on metal wall. Have moonlight and turbo, and very small. It’s reability enought for civil emergency purposes.