Light for my freezer

Salut!

I just bought myself a midsize freezer (200 Liter). One that you open from the top.

Problem is, the ceiling light is right behind me when I open it, so it’s not too bright inside.

My current plan is to 3d print some holder for a Convoy S21A for the lid with a stripe lens and a B35AM in 5700K, switched by a mechanical tilt switch.
Or the easier version, light not on the lid but on a wall cupboard over the freezer with a standard switch of some sort or even PIR sensor?

But that is a lot of work to bringt to life.

It would be much easier to use an LED stripe inside with a switch that switches the light on when you open the lid, but the inside is plastic and the freezer is in use, so magnets don’t work and glue neither.

I would like something with a high CRI, ~5700K and 1x LiIon powered, so ~4V

Does someone have an Idea?
Thanks!

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I use these in a closet, and the remote is useful for different options…

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DZ6WCKB7/

These aren’t available anymore, but I’m sure there are similar doodads out there.

The cable’s flat, so would fit easily under the rubber seal around the lid.

And why not glue? Hotglue or epoxy should hold fine. Else what?, drill holes and screw in?

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I don’t trust any glue that is legal here to adhere in -20°C for longer than a week :face_with_peeking_eye:

But I think I know how I will handle it.
Left and right from the handle is steel sheet, so I can print something that just clips on and hold via magnets.
As a light source, I will use one of these USB LED Modules: LED USB Lampen 24 LED Perlen Hohe Helligkeit Lesen Lampe 5V USB Lichter Nacht Licht für PC Computer Tastatur power Bank Im Freien - AliExpress 39
I will rip them apart, change the LEDs and adjust the Resistor in a way that the tilt switch that can switch 800mA is not overwhelmed.

Outside is the better solution. No worries about cables that need to be routed through the seal, no problems with ice getting into the circuit.

Last place I lived the kitchen had a single fitting in the middle of the ceiling, and one of those awful 90’s length of “track” about 3ft long, with 4 independently adjustable spotlights.

Despite upsizing the bulbs, kitchen still felt badly lit, so I tore the fitting out and put in one of those 4- way pendant light fittings that looks like a spider, got nice fabric cables and enamel shades, and put large LED bulbs in each. The benefit of this type of fitting is you can easily design the layout to shine light where you need it.

Don’t have pics as it was 5 years ago now, but effect was like this:

Alternatively, if you want a specific freezer light, you could do a magnetic goose neck type thing stuck to the outside shining inside?

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I have a magnetic puck light for my chest freezers. It just sits on the side with its built in magnet. Runs on 3 nimh aaa. If i want to use it i just stick it to the lid underside once open. Easy peasy.
I may or may not have forgotten and frozen it once or twice. Or thrice. But once thawed. They worked again. Didnt work when frozen tho. Thats 20 Celsius below. But theyre cheap at the hardware store. Often come in a multi pack.
Id love to find some that run on an 18650.

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On a side note. Get a freezer thermometer also. Cheap online. Chest freezers never come properly adjusted ime. You want it al least minus 18 Celsius for best benefit in medium to long term mest storage :+1:

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I have one inside and also checked with both, an IR Thermometer and a Thermal Cam. It came adjusted to -21°C, so I didn’t change anything.

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Alrighty then

To give you a rough idea how it will look:

The left rectangle is for a magnet, the slot going down is for the LED Module, cut in half, so 12*5630 LEDs
The compartment at the top is for a battery, probably one of my many harvested E-Zig batteries, a tiny 0.6A charging circuit, a resistor and a tilt switch.

I decided to not connect the two things and just have the same thing printed twice, just mirrored. Since the charging circuit is so small and I have some space in there, it’s no big deal.
When I receive the tilt switches, I will modify the CAD drawing to make a little notch for them and then have them hopefully switch on at the same time.

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