This thread came about after an off-topic discussion on the Q8 thread a few weeks ago.
I’ve been light painting for a few years, and whilst far from being an expert, I’m trying to learning many different techniques.
All my light painting photos are here:
Light painting tools
Flashlights - a no brainer for light painting, flashlights or torches can be used off-image to illuminate a scene, in-image for “light drawing” or illuminating a light painting tool. My most commonly used lights are:
- Ledlenser P7QC - for red, green, and blue light.
- Ledlenser P7.2 - the zoom and momentary switch are useful for as a light brush for illuminating specific parts of the image.
- 3 x Convoy S2+ (with biscotti) in warm, neutral, and cool white (the differences in tint can look beautiful). Strobe is useful for orbs and light trails.
- Convoy L6 - for when I need high output or short exposure times. Lack of auto step-down on Convoy lights is useful.
- Assorted headlamps - for finding your way in the dark.
Gels or cellophane - these can be used to create a range of colours either by placing on the lens of the torch, or sticking to the edge of light blades. Cellophane is very inexpensive, though easy to burn a hole through!
Diffusers - useful for basic light drawing, or diffusing the beam for illumination.
Light painting tools - loads of different tools can be attached the flashlight to create a huge range of light trails, orbs, and effects. I highly recommend the lightpaintingbrushes.com system which allows for the connection of torches with heads between 25mm and 38mm diameter (Convoy S2+ fits perfectly) using the Universal Connector. Light painting tool options include:
- Fibre optics - both white (whole fibre illuminates) and black (only end illuminates)
- Light blades - plexiglass blades cut into various shapes, which can be modded with different edge treatment, gels, and tape to create cool effects.
- Swords, sabres, and lightflutes - semi-transparent PVC or light sabre effects.
- Light pens and writers - used for light drawing
- Bottles - give a fat beam effect.
It is also possible to make homemade tools, using 25mm and 35mm plumbing or garden watering connecters to connect the light to the tool. T8 and T12 fluorescent tube guards are popular homemade solution. In fact, light painting is a modders paradise!
EL wire - used for a mist effect when wiggled about. I got mine from Gearbest, and Banggood also sell them.
Steel wool - can be set alight in a whisk, and spun around. Be extremely careful not to set things or yourself on fire!
LED strips - attached to poles or stick of wood can be used to great effect. I bought a 1.2m LED strip from a hardware store, cut off the power supply, and attached a 12V AA battery holder. A commercial version is called the Pixelstick, and there are many homemade versions using Arduino controllers as well.
Other - any other portable light emitting device can be used for light painting, such as glow sticks, sparklers, and finger lights.
LPB Universal Connector linking Convoy S2+ and Denis Smith Lightflute CH48
2 modifed Light Blades, one from LPB and the other custom made.
EL Wire
Convoy S2+ Diffuser
Exposure techniques
You need an interchangeable lens camera (SLR or mirrorless) capable of 30 seconds or longer (bulb) exposure and a tripod. Exposure is trial and error, and it sometimes takes a few practice shots to get things right. In most cases as the base scene is dark, the focus needs to be set first, and then switched to manual before exposing. Remote shutter release and timer delays are critical in getting good photos.
Aperture - f/8 for best sharpness (though depends on lens), f/13 or narrower for starburst effects, f/6 or wider if you need to keep down exposure times or increase the background light.
Exposure Time - vary as to how long you need to do the light painting. I quite often use bulb mode with remote shutter control for longer than 30 second exposures. If you have an illuminated model in the photo, you may need to keep the time short - just a few seconds.
ISO - vary as to get the required exposure. For non-blurred photos of the Milky Way, you’ll need ISO1600 or higher.
Fancy techniques - zoom pull, camera rotation, and lens swaps during a single exposure (covering the lens or blackout during each change) are becoming increasingly popular.
Post processing
Most light painters don’t photoshop, though photoshop can allow for some amazing art. Adobe Lightroom and other RAW editors tend to be the most popular. Techniques vary - personally I usually reduce highlights to minimum, shadows to maximum, then adjust white and black point as required. Exposure, clarity, vibrancy, saturation, noise reduction, contrast curves, temperature and tint are adjusted as required. Occasionally tripod shadows, tripods, feet (below orbs), and internal lens reflection need to be edited out with the heal or clone tool.
Useful links
Light painting tools:
http://lightpaintingbrushes.com - (LPB) lots of cool light painting brushes based around the Universal Connector.
http://denissmith.com.au - Australian seller of LPB, and also makes his own range of lightflutes, arclight blades, and “Ball of Light” tool for spinning orbs.
http://liteblades.com - Canadian based seller of light-blades that fit the Klarus XT11GT light.
A good starting point for light painting inspiration including tips and tricks:
http://lightpaintingphotography.com