If you were willing to run it from 3 eneloops or a single liion you could use a simple 3x7135 driver for a few $. The Vf of blue epe2 is ~3.4V @1A and is just about ideal for either. A 16340 is the same size as a CR123A.
Dang, there is some nice looking gear on that FB page.
Welcome to BLF, HammerJack!
I just finished reading your entire FB site. Wow! I am smitten with your chisel knives and that cleaver axe. Can’t take my eyes off of the chisel knife. Drool!
Better not let Dale see your offerings, his wife will kill him. LOL!
Looking forward to seeing more of this lightsaber you are making. Good luck!
Thanks for the info, I will have to look into this as well!
Thank you for the compliments, Mapache and JohnnyMac… And please send Dale to the page 
So my next question will be about how to have my switch by the LED and driver. My first lightsaber uses a tail cap switch (which is not where a Jedi would have it)? Should I start a new thread on the subject? Have you guys seen any DIY projects that go over this? Switch suggestions? I’ve even toyed with making my own switch.
Just checked my mtnelectronics order and I am getting some 3X7135 drivers…. man I am new to this….
Does anyone have a source to some sort of “Idiots Guide to Flashlights, Drivers, LEDs and other cool stuff”?
Like a Maglite switch? There are plenty of switches that will work. RMM at MtnE has some forward and reverse clicky’s. Forward means 1/2 press is momentary on, reverse is 1/2 press momentary off, both click to stay on. Forward is generally used for signaling/single mode lights and reverse for easier mode changes. To place it at the front you will need a battery contact board and wire the switch between B+ and the driver + pad(center)with a hole in the side of the tube and a button cover.
Thanks, Rufus. Maglite-ish. I bought the conatact board and planned to wire it like you mentioned, but I couldn’t find any info on how side switches were mounted.
I did just google Maglite switch (didn’t even think to do that until you mentioned it) and they have the switch in a whole “assembly”. I will have to either make an assembly to hold it or find some small, self mounting switch. I may just buy a few and try some things out.
Side note: I have been wondering what the whole meaning of forward and reverse clicky. I appreciate all the terminology you guys are offering.
Forward is a traditional old-school flashlight switch, where you can half-press the switch and it will make contact, allowing you to use the light momentarily, without actually “clicking” the switch.
A Reverse clicky clicks BEFORE the light will come on, and a half-press from the “On” state will break the connection momentarily.
A Forward Clicky is typically preferable for a single-mode tactical light, as you can use the light in short bursts. A Reverse Clicky is typically preferred in a multiple mode light, where the half-press function makes it easier to switch modes.
What kind of run time vs size are you hoping for? Star Wars light saber is ~ 3C maglite in size but a AA minimag can be fitted with an aspheric lens, side switch, 1.4A driver, and 14500-14650 lion for 20-30 minutes runtime. A 2C maglite could be shortened for a single 26650 and using the stock switch have 3 hrs runtime. 1.4A isn’t going to generate too much heat for a C mag head to handle(or even AA minimag head) so you could hack away at it cutting in fins adding parabolic mirrors or what have you to your hearts content. Wrap the handle with leather & wire ’n go to town.
It’s a shame the Convoy/Roche F6 switch isn’t available on its own. I think a metal switch is the only way to go on a project like this.
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-shipping-Roche-F6-EDC-HAIII-CREE-XM-L2-U2-1A-LED-Flashlight/330416_1854425141.html
Has anyone contacted Simon about buying products that aren’t listed in his store?
Not a bad idea, Rufus. The ones I am building are built from scratch. I want them to be full custom like our knives. Mapache, that switch would be awesome! I guess I will be googling “small metal latching round switch”.
You might check out how the metal switch on the colored convoy S2+ is done. Uses an Omten 1288 with a metal cap. Or some of the side switch hosts.
Terminology: Clicky
I would have never guessed that would be the actual word used for a switch 
I think I may have found a solution. While I was looking at the Maglite option that Rufus mentioned, I found the side clicky drop in
Unfortunately this one is out of stock. Have you guys used these? Is there a “good” brand? Have you seen another source?
This is the first one I made.
Got some goodies from mtnelectronics.com!