TIR optics are nice in that they can be made to shape light in so many different ways, even elliptical beams and such are possible. The distinct transitions between the different parts of the beam which are generally present with a reflector: hotspot, corona, and spill, can be eliminated with a TIR optic.
Orange peel (OP) reflectors offer smoother transitions between those parts, and reduced artifacts, compared to smooth reflectors. (SMO)
Reflector systems have more potential in this regard though, by means of selective diffusion techniques. Tuning a reflector system in this way is part of the art of torch making, though rarely seen.
Thanks. But what is 12, 24 and 36 deg lenses? I don’t see any options for those on Aliexpress? I have no idea what the differences are between the three types of XHP70 either.
You can not choose lens when buying the flashlight, but you can buy lenses separately over here.
70.3 R9050 is a high CRI version
70.3 R70 is a “regular” version with 70 CRI
70.2 is an older dommed version, has a bit more brightness and a bit less throw, also has a tint shift (a greenish corona) but a TIR lens eliminates that.
In general 70.3 believed to be an improvment over 70.2.
Also Convoy’s 24 degrees TIR lens is not suitable for XHP70.2
Finally, I had a chance to test out my new L21A in the field last night. The beam was really way too tight! The color temp was way too warm compared to my Mi Nextool. That can’t be 6500K! I forced myself to use it for gave up after just 30 minutes.
Reflector? A LED with crappy angular tint-shift will have a fried-egg beam, yellow center and blue spill.
My 4C S2+ was like this, and I was convinced there was nfw that was a 4C, as the hotspot was horribly yellow.
Then I used it to ceiling-bounce light a room after a bulb blew out. Was quite nice! That’s when I looked harder at the components of the beam, and… there ya go!
Swapping a TIR lens for the reflector gave the bone-stock XM-L one of the nicest beams short of a MT-G2, a just nice balanced warm-sunlight beam.
Are you constantly comparing the 2 tints. If cool white is what you’ve always had, of coarse 5000k will be warm. My perception is the opposite, I’ll say a light is too cool if it’s over 4000k
Try taking the light out without comparing it, just use it. That’s why I said in an earlier post, you have to buy and try until you find something You like.
My L21A is supposed to be 6500K. That’s what I ordered and that’s what it says on the sticker on the box. Yet in actual, it is warmer than my Mi Nextool.
I have decided to give the M21H with XHP70.3 a try. I think that’s the kind of beam profile that is more useful for searching herps. Is there a way to find out the runtimes at different %?
No benefits, just ability to choose the beam profile you like. Smaller angle makes the beam tighter therefore you get a throwier flashlight, bigger angle makes the beam wider therefore you get a floodier flashlight.
M21H’s default 12 degree lens is a nice allrounder.
My last 3 flashlights have been disappointing.
Sofirn SC33 - a little floody and not bright enough
Convoy L21A - beam too spotty/tight
Convoy M21H - a little floody. Bright enough at 40% but lasts less than 2 hrs.
I am looking for 21700 flashlight with beam profile similar to my Fenix FD41. If you know of any, please let me know.
If you need lots of lumens for more than 2h with a single 21700 battery, the only option I know is the big Convoy M3-C, XHP 70.2 4000k.
This is actually a 26650 light but you can use an adapter for 21700 or 18650 batteries.
Here is a review of this light:
If you need more runtime, you could try the Convoy m21G, or soda can lights.
I don’t need a lot of lumen. I am happy with my old Fenix FD41 (zoomed in mode) on 350lumen mode. I need something with similar beam profile and a bit more lumen but with a 21700.
