>>>>>Couldn’t you just switch out the driver for one with higher pwm
I could if I knew what I was doing.
I guess the first step would be where to get one and what size to use?
>>>>>Disassembly of the pill and press-fitting in a solid slug of copper or brass is mandatory
Do you have a how-to somewhere on BLF? I’d give it a try if I had a step-by-step, but I’m not a big one for embarking on these mods without specific directions at least the first time.
What do you use for the slug? Grounding rod slices? I thought ground rods only came in a few diameters?
I'm not positive but that light probably uses a 17mm driver so I would recommend a 5 mode driver from e1320. Just pm him and order one.
>>>>>Just pm him and order one.
Oakey doakey …… I’ll get out my calipers and measure the original pill …. OOops orig. pill has no slots on face to use needle nose to unscrew. Can’t get at it from the back either. There is what appears to be a thin layer of plastic with a hole cut for the emitter. Are there slots under that to turn the pill for removal? If so, how do I get that thin delicate piece of plastic off without bulloxing it. Thanks for your help BTW. Mucho gracias. Or is there some other way to get the pill out? Do I need to blast? I like to blast.
Does it look like this? (Pictures of a Saik-305 with Nichia 219)
Probably looks like this (from JohnnyMac's Trustfire Z8 review):
In which case it should just pry up and over the emitter.
-Garry
>>>>>Does it look like this?
Kinda …. It looks like this, because this is it as of a few minutes ago. But the zoom “hood” covers the edges of the pill, unlike yours where you can see the threaded edge, wor what looks like a threaded edge.
Hmm... Have you tried taking off the head?
> hand-lap the emitter star to the modified pill
Do you lap the slug to the inside of the pill and use a film of thermal compound there also?
PS, if anyone wants to draw a picture for a LED-modder’s T-shirt, I nominate that for the caption:
“lap the slug to the emitter”
>>>>>Hmm… Have you tried taking off the head?
Hmmm is my thought exactly. By head, do you mean the zoom lense holder? It will not come off without getting the pill out, like most zoomers, or the ones I have seen. Thanks again for all the help, BTW.
I’ve tried pushing from the back. Nothing except a red face.
Looks like I might have to blast afterall.
Lap a slug? Okay tried it. Didn’t do any good, plus it tasted awful. :8)
I just looked at the picture again and you need to take off the white spacer and under that there will probably be some holes for tweezers/pliers.
>>>>you need to take off the white spacer and under that there will probably be some holes for tweezers/pliers
Yup, I may have to blast. 
The white plastic spacer — or whatever it is — is not as flimsy as first thought. It is about 1/32nd of inch thick and seemingly made from the stongest plastic ever developed. It ain’t moving.
There’s not a lot of room in there without risking the emitter, but i can get an exacto tip under there and pried like the dickens (no offense to Charles) and VOILA!
Nothing.
I will keep working on it but it almost feels like it is glued to the emitter base.
There has to be some way to unscrew it right? This wouldn’t be press fit if I REALLY REALLY press from the back?
the bore of the pill is not tapered on mine. Round copper bar stock, turned +.001” OD, heated the aluminium pill (sans emitter and driver board), then pressed in the copper slug on my bench vice. Turned some iron bar stock for a completely square surface, then used that to sand the pill. Sand the back side of the emitter star, as well (800 - 1000 grit). Then, use lapping compound on both.
When you have finished that (to the extent of your liking), mix up a drop of 2-part thermal epoxy (I prefer “silver arctic”), and squeeze the emitter on, tightly. Drill new holes for the wires, put in the 17mm driver of your choice, solder the leads, and reassemble.
I’ll provide pictures as soon as I get around buying a new camera.
s.:
the first run of Sipik SK98 weren’t press-in pills. They were screwed in, with proper threads.
Should they really have changed the design?
I need to order a couple more to make sure. After all, I know enough people who’d want and need a decent torch (although I would not trust them with rechargeable Li-Ions - rather take the risk of 2xCR123A with a corresponding driver)
it is not a spacer - it actually keeps the Cree LED on its aluminium star-shaped board in place.
Looky there, lots of good reading: ITS HERE! SIPIK SK98 - A 18650 based Sipik SK68 with an XML!
I'm guessing you mean to hold the star down as the LED is already re-flowed onto the board. Even that isn't always true on my Marsfire STL-V2 there is a white plastic spacer for centering it.
Just to clear up any misunderstandings, MY pictured pill is NOT from a 98 clone. It is this light, which is actually pretty good zoomwise execpt for the HORRIBLE PWM flickering on the lowest settings.
This is the one I would like to change out. Too much happening in this thread for my molasses-filled head to keep it all straight.
So somehow, this white spacer thingie has to come out? Kayrect?
The pill looks like this from the front:
So the consensus is that after somehow blasting out the white spacer, there will be notches under here to twist the pill and extract it?
That is my best guess as to what to do. I doubt it is press fit so they have to have a way to screw it in.
Either that or you have to unscrew it from the back? Are there any threads in the back. (I'll post pics in a few minutes)
Like this.
Take the pill out, pop the driver board off the bottom, and push the star out from underneath.