Thermal "glue" should hold very very well. Not to be confused with thermal compound. I've just been using Fujik from DX.
-Garry
P.S.- Those white plastic rings are just to insulate the LED wires from the reflector shorting them, not to hold the LED star in place.
Thermal paste is something else than thermal glue. You wont use thermal glue if you can use thermal paste, as the thermal conductivity of latter is way better. But its a good compromise. I use Fujik only because that tube is huge.. but it took a month to get here.
For US: Amazon.com -> search for thermal glue.
Okay Great! I will order some of the fujik stuff. That’ll do the trick.
How long does it take to dry so that it holds the pcb and emitter board in place?
Good question. I usually let it dry over night.. but you should let it dry under pressure. And it doesnt conduct electricity, so make sure the driver has good contact somewhere. I usually fixate the driver by compressing the pill a little bit with a pipe wrench and let some solder flow between driver and pill for electric contact.
To fill my pills with solder, I fill something with equal size (even a hole in a piece of wood works) with molten tin (I have large tin bars), file it down and sand one side flat when cold and press it into the pill. Thats where I glue the emitter. Works pretty good but it is some work.
I got this stuff because he was a usa seller, great feedback and many sold.
Now to find a couple of those rings just in case.
Thanks Nightcrawl for the grease/glue difference …… After I saw the answer, I looked it up on ebay and just about had a turkey. I guess this must be some very expensive glue! Hoo hah!
I did a quick look for edi-t lights and am not finding a lot on ebay. Some, but not a lot. Before I look at all the usual sites, what’s the most reliable cheep source for these lights? Thanks for the suggestion. I always can use a good zoomer!
That’s the stuff that increases emitter output by 1000% of it’s factory rated maximum while keeping it at subzero temperatures and reducing current draw to a tightly regulated 25mA, right?
Scary part is that the ebay ad says 14 have been sold at this price. For that price, they could have pooled their resources and bought a Honda Civic and a regular tube of glue!
If you click on “14 sold” you’ll notice that the correct price is $14.00. In fact the last one sold was on April 26 for that price, after which the listing was updated with a new Buy It Now price. It was probably just a typo.
> Round copper bar stock, turned +.001” OD,
> heated the aluminium pill (sans emitter and driver board), then
> pressed in the copper slug on my bench vice.
> Turned some iron bar stock for a completely square surface ……
Hello, China! That’s how to do it right.
Someone for sure could sell these, done right, to people like me who don’t have a lathe!
Unfinished is fine — meaning the last polishing work (lapping) can be left to the builder.
But good heat sinks in pills — someone really ought to be getting this part right.
I can (and will) get good at hand-lapping the surfaces — I’ve known how to do it and why to do it for a long time, just haven’t done it.
But I know why looking at a computer CPU and base they’re mirror-shiny-smooth — because metal to metal transfers heat, and the goop is supposed to be barely there at all, only enough to fill the microscopic gaps — that’s why they say dab a bit on and scrape it off with a credit card.
If there were a few standard-size heatsinked pills suitable for most hosts, done right, that would be smart design.
>>>>It was probably just a typo.
It might be a typo, but what if it isn’t? Maybe it will — as you said earlier — make emitter efficiency 1000% better!
Think someone at CP will buy it for the listed price?
No, however if it said Surefire on it they would. :P
i haven’t lookied for a while, but i know dx used to carry several.
>>>>No, however if it said Surefire on it they would.
Bo hahahahaha! Everyone’s first name is Shecky around here when it comes to one liners. Bada-bing. An LED flashlight comedy review!
Hey cabfrank:
>>>>i haven’t lookied for a while, but i know dx used to carry several.
Do you mean the drivers (or the glue)? (Sorry, a lot of different subjects whirling around here.) Have you had good luck with the drivers? Did you use any with a T6? No visible PWM?
.
I think he is talking about those white spacers.
i actually meant edi-t lights. i think it was asked where to find them a few posts above. i should have been more clear.