Thanks everyone for all the help, I’ve decided on the 4000K.
I wanted to get it in the Light Blue color because it’s unique and a change from all the black lights I already have, plus the 18500 tube I want only comes in light blue or dark grey.
It’s wrote in the description “If you need other color body,we can make a special color for you.Pls contact us if you need other color body’s E2L flashlight”
But Jax replied my message something about “now we want to keep it simple, only one color E2L” So I’ve replied to clarify but it doesn’t sound good, kind of a bummer.
And for 18500 It will be two-tone, but that might be cool looking!
Yeah I got the same thing, but if you click the link he posted under the pic it goes to the site where that same photo is (click gallery tab button) It’s the photo with all the herbs/spices.
https://www.virence.com/
fixed
Working now, thanks.
Cool. But I recommend to go to the site you linked, on the gallery tab and see all the cool photos!
I figure since I’m getting Nichia 219 for the superior color rendition that it would make more sense to get a more neutral tint, since NW has better color rendition than CW
Also I believe 4000K is considered NW more so than WW, but 5700K is definitely CW, even though it’s at the lower end of the scale.
Thanks again everyone for all the helpful replies.
Scientific world standard of CRI can only defined by those qualitative measures such as those conducted by member Maukka. He did many charts in the website. Subjective CRI would yield too much disagreements. The technique and apparatus have been and still evolving to get the true standards.
Personal preference is subjective, not all people like the same CCT. This matter is greatly affected by perceived tints. same CCT - different tints have their own fans. Human perceptions always go for the tint first, and then later CRI, only when there’s comparator. In most cases we compare light produced by sun (time dependent), wood fire, or hot tungsten filament.
5700K (sm573, sm575, or sm577, etc…) is widely accepted as the coolest whitest comfortable CCT - still not as harsh as 6500K. You should go to 5700K - 6500K if you need to see “true white” on the objects shone. Below 5000K all white looks off.
- Clemence
This statement is probably also one of the most useful, and has got me reconsidering my decision now, but is it subjective? I also recall reading somewhere as you get older the perception of the colder lighting appears more harsh or blue, not sure there’s any truth in that. I personally seem to like tints in the 4800-5000K range such as 3C, 3D.
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I think I do prefer a whiter beam opposed to warmer yellowish, and I consider the XML2 4C (4300K-4500K) in my S2+ to be warmer yellowish, compared to any of the other NW lights I own. However I like the way the colors pop with that one. I assume the reason of this is a higher CRI rating. It appears the warm/neutral tints for a CREE such as XML/XPL are made available in higher CRI that what is available in their cool tints. I don’t know if that is inherent to the lower CCT or they are made that way on purpose.
The more yellowish hue of the 4C in my S2+ is apparent when you first turn it on, even when outdoors, but it isn’t as noticeable in use by itself. It becomes much more apparent when you start comparing it with other lights with colder CCT, including other NW tints such as 3C, 3D (On The Road M6 & BLF A6) 4800-5000K for the OTR M6, not sure the CCT of the A6.
To try and get an idea of 5700K compared to 4000K, I compared some of my better CW lights to the 4C convoy last night. When I say better CW I’m referring to ones that have a purer white hue as opposed to the blueish/purplish hue of some CW budget lights I have. So I’m assuming these are closer to neutral. CCT rating however is a bit of a mystery on these as most manufactures do not publish the figure, and I couldn’t find it for any of these, but I’m assuming around 5700-6500K.
The 3 “better CW” lights I compared with were an Olight S30 (XML-2), An Eagletac D25C2 Mini (XP-G2 R5) and a Soonfire NS-17 (XML-2, Same light as Nitenumen NE-01) On a white wall/ceiling all three of these appear to have nearly the same tint, nearly pure white with no blue, maybe a hint of yellow in or around the corona. They are a hue I can live with - but colors look drab compared to the 3C, 3D and other NW lights I own (and prefer) for that reason.
In comparing I’m keeping in mind what Litebringer said about TIR lens, so I know its not a perfect comparison for the E2L decision. The conclusion is that there is quite a wide difference between these “neutral end of cool” tint and the 4C, I could live with either but I do like the high CRI of the 4C. So I have to wonder does the 5700K 219C in the E2L have the pure white “near neutral” beam with the fantastic color rendition of the XML2 4C?
Too bad the Jax E2L nichia 219 isn’t available in 5000K.
And something else Litebringer mentioned is at play in my decision: “once you get used to it and to how things look under warmer light (reds and browns, especially woodgrains, just pop………), it’ll definitely grow on you” From using the 4C I have to agree.
I guess the choices for the E2L nichia boil down to either “warm end of neutral” or “neutral end of cool” Also some very true advice on this is (again) from Litebringer in the first reply: “Only way to really tell which you like better is to just get both.” 
Wellp, let me use an audio analogy…
When listening with my Bose earmuffs, the sound’s got nice crisp highs that really come out clearly.
I’ve also got a pair of Sennheisers, somewhat infamous for “the Sennheiser veil”, ie, treble response is somewhat muted, as if the sound’s coming from “behind a veil”.
As comfortable as the Bose earmuffs are, the sound gets a little fatiguing after a while.
With the Senns, even though the physical fit isn’t as perfect (for me; ear-shape no doubt makes a difference), I could listen to them all day long.
That’s why in a lot of radio stations, DJs use Senns. The sound might be a little “colored” by softening the highs a bit, but that just makes listening that much less fatiguing. For detail, I always go for the Bose, but for extended listening, it’s the Senns.
So, for me, a just-warm-of-neutral light is about perfect, from 4000K-4500K. It may not be the most “neutral”. It may not show white-whites perfectly, but it’s MUCH less jarring on my eyes than blindingly-bright retina-scorching paper-white light.
So if you’re an electrician working on wires where color is important (so you don’t fry up like a potato-chip), a 5700K 95CRI Neech is probably for you.
For me, looking at things at night, something in the mid- to low-4000Ks is about perfect. And even 3000K, when I’m just shining around at night, despite that color being that much “less-white”, isn’t a bucket of ice-water to my eyeballs. In fact, it’s quite soothing, and I can go back to bed shortly after, vs thinking it’s high-noon after hitting my retinas with a blast of CW.
Also, keep in mind the inherent fried-egginess of the S2+ reflector. With the 4C, the hotspot is probably something in the 5s, and the spill is probably in the 3s. Or maybe worse than that, the hotspot in the 6es and spill in the 2s. When got my first 4C S2+, I was convinced it was not a 4C, but something at least in the 5s or warmer.
Point being, with the reflector, the hotspot is way warmer than the 4C rating would lead you to believe, and the spill much cooler. The TIR captures (almost) all the light from the LED and mixes it much more thoroughly, so the hotspot will be closer to the rated 4C color-temp than it could ever hope to be with the reflector.
So CRI probably isn’t a factor, but that the nominal “4C” color with the reflector will seem lots warmer, and yeah, reds and browns will positively pop compared to cooler colors (drab).
That’s why, now that I got the bug to mod my TK4A, I’m wanting to throw in a 5D on DTP round (16mm, not 20mm… all I got), as long as it’s not an exaggerated fried-egg beam.
Check my dirty wall below:
- Clemence
Thanks for the replies and further insight.
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Yep:
I would’ve said to look at my neighbor’s dirty wall, but…
I kinda like the middle one.
Thanks clemence, I do prefer the look of the Dirty wall #1 (5700K) and wall #3 looks too pinkish.
But really, who wouldn’t prefer wall #1? I mean who really wants to see things in a different shade that are suppose to be white? So I’m assuming there’s a reason for the 4000K in that even though it throws off the shade of whites, it has better color rendition when looking at colors; reds, greens, woodgrains etc. Is this true?
clemence on your site in the photo of spools of thread I like the first photo (219C sm403) better than the rest (except the #2 photo - 319A sm403) I think the E2L 4000K should close to that. Outdoors I think I’m rarely viewing white surfaces anyhow, indoors more whites, but even more colors.
Anyhow today I ordered the 4000K version Nichia E2L. I figure the warm/neutral will have better color rendition and really make the colors pop. As I stated earlier I don’t have any Nichia 219 so I thought I’d get the one that offers the best color rendition because that’s what the Nichia is about. I also ordered the 18350 and 18500 tubes with it.
Later I may try the 5700K or even rebuild it with something better or 5000K. I wanted to try a small multi-emitter Nichia 219 light as I decided on XPL-HI for the Emisar D4 for more brightness/less heat.
Thanks
Based on Maukka’s test, warmer doesn’t mean higher CRI. For example the sm303 219C has lower CRI than sm503 219C. I prefer warm CCT too, except in work area. Apart from whitey white reason, warm CCT also makes me feel lazy.
There was a small batch of very nice sm4070e 219C (4000K with pinkish tint), it’s people’s choice in 4000K region. The first picture in the spool set was exactly the very LED I used on my 3rd dirty wall picture.
- Clemence
Forgot to add “neighbor’s” in between 
- Clemence
Hmm, maybe that’s why I like it.
So I ended up doing an About Face - I cancelled my order with 4000K and re-ordered with 5700K!
I found a thread here (recently resurrected) on the single emitter Jax E2 Nichia Jaxman E2 measurements (Nichia 219B, bargain high CRI 18650) That light at the time had 219B not 219C but none the less after reading it and all the replies I decided to change direction. I admit I got afraid of too much yellowish hue, I’m not a fan of flashlights that are near to replicating incandescent light.
Also read the feedback on aliexpress. Interesting all 44 buyers who left feedback bought the 4000K, many said it was quite yellow and someone even mentioned incandescent, but no one was complaining - they all said the tint was great, mostly because of the excellent color rendition. It appears no one bought the 5700K, (at least no one who added feedback) Maybe they were afraid it would be too cold? I’ve previously held off on buying anything with Nichia 219 fearing a pinkish hue. And since Maukka’s test shows warmer doesn’t mean higher CRI, my hope is I’ll see this same awesome high CRI color rendition, in a pure white beam that I prefer.
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So it took some time, a lot of research plus the many helpful replies here, but I’m happy with my decision, maybe I’ll try the 4000K later. After I get the light and use it awhile I’ll return here and post about it, and probably do a quick review too.
I just received a 4000K Nichia E2L. Great light. Rendering is gorgeous. Reds are so rich.
It’s not yellow as that side-by-side shot of the currency would suggest.