Hello,
I am looking for a headlamp for fishing. 
It should have combination of flood and spot light.
Flood for light on the shore and spot light for watching area around float (50-70m?)
Any ideas which headlamp could be good?
Or any suggestion that spot+flood headlamp is not best and I should look for something else? It is for a friend, I have no experience with fishing… 
Thank you for any advices. 
Sofirn HS21 is probably a good option. Flood, spot, both, and red light.
Thank you, I will check it. 
Here ya go…
Wurkkos HD16 and Sofirn HS21, 2 of my favorite headlamps
How’s the quality of light from the HD16? I hesitated on getting one due to the SST40, and was really hoping for an HD15 update with better driver and 519A in place of the LH351D.
HD15 in 4000k. Both spot and flood are high CRI.
The fish will love it.
Sofirn HS21. It has a white spotlight, a white floodlight and red lights. It’s easy to quickly switch between spotlight, floodlight, both, and red.
Armytek Wizard C2 WR. It has white and red lights. The beam is very floody but it can reach about 122 metres (officially 97). The user interface is the same for white and red so you get a lot of red levels.
The output is well regulated for both.
I don’t own the Sofirn HS21, so I cannot compare to my headlight.
I have the Sofirn HS20, which is my headlight of choice.
It doesn’t have a red light, but it does have separate switches for the floody and throwy emitters.
I chose the one with the SFT40 emitter to get maximum throw (for the smallish reflector.)
From my experiences fish stay calmer with warmer lights compared to cooler ones which seems to panic them.
That Wurrkos HD16 also looks good, but I miss there some medium mode.
Sofirn HS21 is actually winner for me, but I would like it to be little bit warmer
Wurkkos H25L
Btw-which aaa headlamp is nowadays the smallest?for everydaycarry…?
I have Manker E02II. It is small, very quality made and very powerful for its size with good tint SST20 led, but battery life for flashlights with AAA/10440 format batteries is reasonable long only on lower modes of power.
Forgot to mention-3x aaa:)
Ew.
That means you can only really use alkaleaks in them.
I can’t think of any sensible reason to use the 3x AAA format, do you have a specific use case?
Have a look at the tests on HKJ website for alkaline AAA, especially what happens when you try to draw more than 0.2A from these cells.
Using the Duracell Plus Power AAA as an example, at 0.2A, the cell provides 1.029Wh.
3 cells together have a total capacity of 3.09Wh.
In series, at 0.2A, these cells are producing ~0.9W.
Assuming 150lm/W efficiency, this is 135lm output, but note that as the voltage falls the light will either dim, or driver will draw more current to keep the output stable, which in turn will be ruinous for runtime.
In comparison, the Vapcell K10 tested by mooch, could provide 1Ah at 1A draw. So 3.7Wh total capacity.
At 3.7W, the hypothetical light would be producing 555 lumens.
They’re usually just shiite, and most times the “driver” is at best a pwm chip. Those circuits rely on the internal resistance of the AAAs to drop the voltage at the LEDs (through voltage sag) from 4.5V which’d fry them to the 3.something more in line with what the LEDs need.
On/off is just crowbarring the LEDs across the cells. Modes are just pwming them through a FET or something.
NiMH is too low a voltage and/or too low resistance. They might end up too dim (low V) or too bright (low R).
You want the beastie to work as intended, you gotta use alkaleaks.
Yeah, like I said, ew.
i need EDC hadlamp..Still with me…So small as possible.Dont need mule:) I have now little Nitecore NU25,but the internal battery is very tricky..Need to get the light if i repair the car for example and waiting 2 hours on not possible…This is the Nitecores dealbraker..But its soooo small:)
