I bought them at the same time from the same store and have only ever used them with the Roche. So I think that qualifies nicely. :bigsmile: how do you know the batch?
I’m just guessing, that if you order them together from one seller you should most likely get cells that are from the same batch/age.
But basically those rules also apply to protected cells - IMO. I do have some sets of matched cells for every series/parallel configuration, marked with a lableprinter.
I tend to use safer unprotected cells lately (real IMR/LiMn chemestry), at least they wont blow up if something goes terribly wrong.
On/Off problem came back and it was the same: has trouble turning back on when turned off on high mode. I turned it on using my DMM and there was no problem. I did about a dozen or so times and it was fine. Is it possible that the switch has a hard time dealing with the increased output after the mod?
I think so, yes. Have you disassembled the tailcap? It’s somewhat common to see tailcap design/construction which is lacking. I like to see the switch mounted on a PCB which is then clamped in place with a retaining ring. In that case the electrical path is SPRING > PCB > SWITCH > PCB > BODY and the PCB > BODY joint is held with clamping force by the retaining ring. In that case the spring is soldered to the PCB.
In other cases I’ve seen something involving no solder with press fits involved. More like BRASS POST > SPRING > SWITCH TAB > SWITCH > SWITCH TAB > BODY. In that case you will likely find no solder joint between any of those things, and no clamping force holding the switch tab against the body, just a press fit.
IOW please take apart the tailcap, show us pictures, and think about what you are seeing.
I’ll post pictures when I can but when I disassembled it, the layout was brass post > spring > pcb > switch, all held in with a plastic washer type thing and a metal retaining ring. The switch is soldered onto the pcb and looks kind of like this kind of switch http://www.fasttech.com/products/1610/10001865/1135000-15a-250v-reverse-clicky-switches-2-pack
It might not be the same brand/quality, but it looked like that.
Let’s see what the pics reveal. Really I’d say that the construction sounds OK to me, but maybe the switch itself is the issue if it’s not a real Omten. (Even if it is a real Omten, it could be defective.)
Remember, the current draw through the switch is actually pretty low, so this should be no trouble…
After playing with the switch some more, and also doing testing with the DMM, I deduced that it must have been either my soldering job or somehow having 2 more sense resistors stacked on the existing one. I came across the same problem when I turned the light on or off with the DMM (seemed like the problem was getting worse) in any mode. So I decided to take off the new resistors and solder on a new single R330 and cleaned everything up as much as I could. The result so far is great. The light is still significantly brighter than it was stock, and it hasn’t had any problem turning on at all after a whole night of using it.
LS01, is this the same? I bought this shell from Convoy.
yeah, that looks to be the same host. Do you have the link to that? Can’t find it.
Do you use a buying agent?
I gather that I’m suppose to be able to purchase without one now… I tried to select 海外 but the shipping showed the same as Chinese destinations.
I’m a Chinese
Whole light:
Host:
I have the one from BangGood - but modded with a MT-G2.
The two Head-parts are glued together, so I would go for the host.
how to make the XM-L2 reflector fit the MT-G2? or do you buy another reflector?
http://www.budgetlightforum.com/node/31974?page=1#comment-679121
I file the emitter opening of the reflector to make it a lil bit bigger. It happens that the LS01 reflector gives nice beam profile of MT-G2 emitter too. Click link to a post above for pictures.
I used this thing: http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009834/1863300-0-14mm-high-speed-tapered-drill-bit
It was easy and the result is perfect.
The beam of this thing with a MT-G2 is very good. lots of spill but a clearly visible spot with good throw.
Thanks for the "drill bit". I'm thinking to place an order. 
FYI that’s a body reamer - body reamer - Google Search (just in case you find one elsewhere that is cheaper or better :laughing:
ah, yes, I have to buy the electronic part.
Roche LS01 at Banggood for $15.16 shipped (banggood.com/Rocher-LS01-CREE-XM-L2-1A). Use coupon code BGLFC at checkout - worked for me just now. Seems like an exc. host for a XHP50 or XHP70.