I got mine today.
AWESOME LIGHT
First FWXXX that works out of the box!
Still daytime, but it clearly throws out a lot more light than an FW3A
Very very nice.
I have a question that I wasn’t able to answer by searching. I want to put a 219B in an FW1A, but want to limit current to about 2A to protect the LED. I saw that TK posted a new FW3A build target for Anduril with the FET turned off (thank you!), but I need to know how to adjust the ramp tables to limit the power to 2A max. The alternative is to remove two of the 7135’s, but I’d prefer a software change. Any help would be appreciated.
You may need to ask in the firmware development thread if you don’t get an answer here.
Fwiw the build with the FET turned off means it’s just regulated up to 2.8A max, 0.8A probably wouldn’t be a big issue assuming you’ve got good thermal contact between the MCPCB and PCB shelf especially if you’re not running it at max all the time and have reasonable thermal limits set.
Does the FW1A use the same firmware as the FW3A? I don’t see a separate one in toykeeper’s list. And does anyone know what version is on the current lights?
Yes, it does. Not sure about the version currently being used. There is a version readout function in recent builds, though. I believe it’s 15 clicks from off.
I’ve pimped my FW3S into FW1S
https://imgur.com/gallery/RagmCio
Sorry but pic hosting is in problems at the moment
what’s with the blue glow?
Double MCPCB soldered and potted. To make it look nicer (my OCD) i’ve used UV glass repair glue in combo with CRX recommended GITD powder and voila.
Please can someone kindly remind me if the FW1A fully legos with the FW3A? Finally getting round to ordering a FW1A and wondering if I can take the FW1A MCPCB/LED and reflector and put it in a blue FW3A topped with a FW1A SS bezel?
The reflector is too long to fit in the head of an FW3A, the 1A’s head is significantly longer. The whole head itself should screw on find though.
The body parts lego together mostly, but you won’t be able to use the MCPCB/reflector/FW1A bezel combo on any FW3A.
The FW3A has a center hole on the MCPCB shelf for the wires to pass through. Given the FW1A has the emitter in the middle, the leads are on holes on the outside of the shelf.
Oh I didn’t realise the head was different, I thought the only differences were that it had different mcpcb/led, reflector and bezel.
I completely forgot about the shelf holes - good point, I would have to drill extra holes.
First post here. I’m a flashlight noob but want to order this light. I’m confused by all the options it’s like a foreign language! I’m not sure of my preferences on tint or bulbs. Can someone break it down for me in really simple terms 
I’m looking for an edc light with throw and found this one after some research.
I’m glad I didn’t attempt to turn the FW1A into another FW3A too :person_facepalming: I never thought about this detail :weary:
This is a really good starting point: https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/edz84r/arbitrary_list_of_popular_lights_winter_solstice/
Try out a BLF X5 with an Efest 14500 battery. Or, a lumintop gt micro. You will love them both if you want something smaller than 18650 with great throw.
Thanks for the help. I found a good article online by bmengineer that recommended the luminos SST20 so I went with that option.
I hear good things abut that guy. Glad he could help.