Last night I ended up opening it with the help of some pliers.
The threads were, indeed, glued and I ended up making some dents on the knurling, but its fine.
I filed the rest and gave it a new look 
I also communicated this situation to Neal to let him know about the glue! The following photos were also sent as evidence!
My FW1A has now a new personality
Thatās strange. Lumintop has made plenty of process changes in the past on this series, but mostly to cut costs. I canāt see why theyād start gluing things.
That looks great!
hmmm, If I where to mention FW1A, emitter swap and lets say XHP50.2/XHP70.2, would that be crazy talk?
I could have sworn there was an interest thread about that exact setup a while backā¦ā¦ā¦.
You could swap in a 3v 50.2 emitter as-is. You might need to open up the reflector a bit to make room for the larger dome, but thatās not too hard to do.
However, regular XHP 50.2 and all XHP 70.2 only come in 6v/12v. Just swapping them into an FW1A wonāt work since the FW1A uses a linear driver that passes through the voltage from the cell (so max of 4.2v).
On some older lights, modders would get around this by running such a light with 2x18350 in series and adding a Zener diode to the driver to protect the MCU from the extra voltage. No idea if thatās practical for this light, and even if it was running 2 18350 cells in series is considerably more dangerous and has much less capacity than using a single 18650 cell.
Idk if it would make sense, maybe it would heat up(dim down) to fast to be worth it compared with the stock. Or might just be to much trouble compared by buying a zebra.
How does zebraās come around the voltage issue?
FWIW, adding a Zener isnāt recommended for e-switch lights. They have way too much parasitic drain. It only really works in clicky-switch lights.
So instead, a LDO would be needed. But it isnāt ideal either, since it would break the ability to measure cell voltage, and thus breaks battcheck and low-voltage protection.
The 3V version could work, but the XHP NN.2 HD LEDs in general tend to produce ugly rainbow beams so it might not be worthwhile.
Zebralights use a Boost driver.
Boost drivers āboostā the voltage rather than just passing it through. In the case of a Zebra like the SC600, the driver doubles the input voltage from the cell before sending it to the LED. Itās a more complex driver type.
You would need to entirely replace the stock driver to get a boost driver into an FW1A. Since e-switch boost drivers are fairly rare, you probably wonāt be able to find a stock one from a modding shop. And you definitely wouldnāt find one designed to fit the inner tube contact ring of an FW1A. Your only option would likely be to design and build one from scratch.
Also, even if you do design a boost driver, Iām not sure it would actually fit in an FW1A. The FW1A is designed for a simple linear driver and has a very shallow driver compartment. A taller boost driver might not fit.
Bottom line: Probably not worth it to try to run a 6v XHP 50.2 or 70.2 in an FW1A. If you want extra lumens and donāt care so much for throw just get an FW3A.
That and the 3V 50.2 only seems to be available in cool-white. :confounded:
So I pulled the trigger on a FW1A and immediately hated the SST-20 because of the too narrow beam and the very small jump from max ramp to turbo. I installed a Luxeon V and now itās awesome. I had to ream the reflector bottom hole to fit the standard 7mm XP gaskets. I then reamed a XP gasket with the round hole to fit the Luxeon V. Perfectly centered and very good beam. This reflector likes this LED! The max ramp is definitely over 1000 lumens and turbo isā¦ Verrrry bright https://photos.app.goo.gl/rV7VS4aUC7iX5ZAE9
This is what I got
4ā / 101.6mm with the 18650 tube
2.75ā / 69.85mm with the 18350 tube
Oops, didnāt see it answered already. 
Oh whale, think I rather the 18650 body on these. The 18350 is just too short IMO, if it were 3.25ā/ 82.55mm it would be perfect.
I love this light with the 18350 tube. Itās very small and throws a lot, and it has a very long runtime because you donāt need a lot of lumens to see at far distances
https://photos.app.goo.gl/S77EuvjDWn1V7orf7
Something you guys should tryā¦ I took a BLF A6 rubber switch cap and filled the cavity inside it with rubber o-rings and until it just protruded the central āstudā that usually pushes against the Omten 1288 switch. I then put a XP gasket on that central stud section and it was flush with the rubber o-rings. I put that assembly in place of the metal switch plate and the result was amazing.
Probably the best feeling Iāve ever felt in a switch. Itās firm, very good feedback, no accidental pocket activation and obviously good grip. You loose the ability to tail stand but for EDC itās a fair trade off to have a good switch in this light.
Fritz designed the tailcap to be able to use an A6 or similar rubber boot instead of the metal switch. It works because he did that on purpose. 
Thereās still a gap between the rubber and the switch which has to be filled. Thatās why I fitted the gasket. Otherwise you get a mushy feeling every time you let go of the switch. And the o-rings in the switch boot cavity makes the switch press a lot firmer. No more accidental switch activation due to the large contact area pressing down on the switch.
The switch bits have been modified several times since Fritz designed it. My prototype with a rubber boot works really nicely, but I havenāt tried it on a newer model. It sounds like some modifications may be necessary on the current items.
Despite I love the look and to carry both on the 18350 format, it is indeed ātooā short! Unless you use a different clip ā(cigar ring?) to handle it!
Currently my FW3A is used with the 18500 tube instead! Feels nicer in the hand!
Even the FW1A feels short with the 18350 tube 
I thought about trying the 18500 instead but already had a few Keep power 18350s that I use in my Reylight Dawn. Iāll just use the 18650 body and have the extra run time now lol.