“CONFIRMED 100 000 lumens MS18 thread”:
via Imgflip Meme Generator
Yes, ZozzV6 tested it with Martin at 98 000 lumens which is absolutely incredible!
Here it is compared to the Acebeam X70:
Calculated in the integrating bathroom sphere ceiling-bounced. I’m not doubting Martin’s and ZozzV6’s results, but I’d like to see more of them in the wild being tested before I make a final judgment. It wouldn’t be the first time in history some company sent a juiced-up version of a product to a prominent reviewer to “gin up” the buzz…
@Texas Ace, they might be using an 8S setup for the 21700s to minimize power losses.
That would also mean they would perhaps be using a 2S9P 12V XHP70.2 MCPCB setup.
At 100k lumens though, they must be pushing the LEDs to a pretty high level for a commercial non-BLF light.
At 1100-1200W, that is still 40A being pushed from the cells to the emitters. That is going to strain the cells right there, unless the efficiency losses of the reflector/lens are lower, or the LED efficiency is higher.
I brought that up in the thread… if they used 24 XHP 70.2s they could have gotten 100k lumens at about 700W.
new pictures
Why the long battery carrier?
Is it just to make sure people use 8 cells and not 4?
less resistance I guess and a few mm saved
Love the super-deep heat sink fins. The GT4 has the most impressive heat sink fins of any flashlight I’ve seen or heard of I think.
Looks like were going to need 8 Button Tops? First thing I’ll change….if it’s so…
yeah and probably the most heavy head for a flashlight, i think it must weigh like 2,5kg alone just that… 
Aluminium is pretty lightweight though, that head is heavy but not excessively.
Can you imagine a brass GT4 (
), similar to this: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/56156. The brass MT03 comes in at 1450 g vs. the aluminum version at 620 g.
Partly to make sure that you use 8 cells, 4 cells would easily overload all but the best cells.
The biggest reason is to lower the resistance by removing the tiny spring in the carrier “button top”. Although they didn’t actually do that in the prototype even though I told them over and over what needed to happen. So like I figured, it promptly melted when I used it long term lol.
Although that carrier design is not final either, it needs a disc in the middle to keep the cells in place, right now they want to pop out the sides. It is lower resistance like this but I don’t think having batteries wanting to pop out of the carrier until it is inserted into the light will go over well.
WOW!
The amount of time/energy spent designing that head is impressive. I do quite like the idea of actively cooled lights but with Imalents new MS18 they finally got a super powerful system which appears to work wonders. The catch is the cost of it sounding very much like a hairdryer! I love how much work went into making such an amazing passively cooled system and from everything I’ve read by TA it appears to be one of, if not the best passively cooled lights ever. Well done everyone involved!
I’m super excited about this light also and can’t wait for more updates!
I’m not so sure about that. These heat sinks are shallow.
I agree. Doesn’t compare from what I can see. The only light I’ve ever seen that’s comparable is the old Olight X6
To me it's more like a super sized J20, reviewed here. The J20 is a great thermal design, one of the best.
Except for the fact, Tom, that in the J20 they didn’t connect the emitter shelf to the excellent cooling fins. After I fixed that for me and Richard the light performs quite well. 
Well it looked good anyways... 
I was think'n of your J20 mod/build but couldn't find the post(s). I knew you and Richard were involved in a great mod to one, just couldn't recall details.
For Richards I built a battery tube extension and a heat sink that filled the head. With the head hollow, the heat didn’t effectively reach those deep lower cooling fins. So the heat sink addresses this with the thick portion that sits above the head and makes contact with the underside of the emitter shelf, machined to fit into the head like a glove it takes the heat down into the fins and disperses it. The center hole is on a bevel to open it up at the bottom, both because of the further distance and lesser fins and because of the clearance needed for the driver assembly. The initial drawing was made without the light in hand…
For mine I just made the heat sink and added about a 1/4” thick plate on top of the emitter shelf to raise my reflectors up to meet the lens. I used 4 Winnie reflectors with 9V MT-G2 emitters.
Richard said that with all of the XM-L’s replaced using XHP-50’s it got stupid hot in seconds, couldn’t really run it 30 seconds before the heat sink. After the heat sink it would run til the cells died. I was very pleased with that, especially considering he measured 39,000 lumens. 