Based on some board repair videos I’ve seen on youtube the biggest worry at this point is preventing corrosion. I wonder if there is an effective way to do that without disassembly. I suppose that 100% alcohol could displace water but it would also probably cause issues with the thermal paste applications.
Forgot, was going to ask if you are baking it inside of something with the cap off or if you are just running the light with temperature control at 50 degrees
She lives, for now at least. I’ve baked the head and the tailcap with reflector, bezel, switch cover and retaining ring removed, in the oven with a couple of thermocouples inside set to alarm since our oven only has a bimetallic thermostat. I’m not extremely worried about corrosion at this point, my reasoning being that
The amount of corrosion present apparently leaves the light functional for now, I’ll be doing confidence checks with it and the cell that was inside at the time and see if there are signs of something being wrong. I -really- don’t like soldering cramped, heatsinked setups and this is my reasoning to avoid it for now.
Sorry about the OT but the thing that made this event grotesque was that I’ve literally drowned a watch in the same pool the night before.
A Bangle.js 2 at that. Really annoyed at myself about this.
Sounds like you’ve got it under control! Glad it seems to have survived unscathed.
I’m not a watch guy but there is little worse than looking upon the ruins of an expensive gizmo that you destroyed in a totally preventable way. (RIP Surface 3, I didn’t mean to sit on you 
)
Moments silicon heaven angels get their wings.
I’ve always known myself for my propensity to turn things into beaters in an accelerated fashion unfortunately. It’s why I usually seek the rugged versions of things that are used in a tool-like manner, including things like laptops etc.
I baby a lot of my fun/hobby items up until the first ding, at which point there is a period of mourning. After that, I get back to using it–some things look more legit with battle scars anyway, lets be honest 
My d4s w2 single channel w/ lighted switch has the k9.3 firmware, 0261. Is that no longer recommend? I thought it was at some point.
I’m all about that fully charged high drain cell max turbos btw
Quick question here about the switch LED. Is it set to high or low out of the box?
Thusfar, 13/13 of my Anduril lights have been on High, so I think it safe to assume that’s the norm.
Hi everyone! I haven’t checked in here in a while. Is there any news on the new drivers? Maybe Hank is going to update his boost driver and make a good low mode and turbo finally ?
Boost driver is fine IMHO. Low is very usable at 1-2 lumens even with the XHP 70.3 HI and turbo is, uh, good enough for an EDC-sized light. I know it could be higher but … only for a couple seconds. I like the balance of efficiency and power Hank struck here.
Xhp70.3HI’s lowest mode is actually good (for me). Turbo doesn’t step down after only a few seconds though, especially outside with w breeze… Does it even stepdown??
My point is that the xhp70 D1 could have insane performance if it were driven like a real hotrod.
Would it be possible to put a wet light in a vacuum chamber and boil all the water out?
That’s a very good idea! I do have access to a vacuum chamber, though not at home. I might try it next time, hopefully not anytime soon
Vacuum might have the advantage of better removal of the vapour that might get trapped inside cavities with poor air circulation. Only component I might worry about would be electrolytics but I don’t suppose there are any inside.
I was hoping that wasn’t the case because now I have a lot to re-program.
It’s advisable to do a factory reset after flashing anyway … just to make sure nothing odd happens.
I’ve heard of two of those now.
I think perhaps the “single channel D4S with dual channel driver” hardware needs a new build specifically for that purpose. I didn’t know it was ever sold that way until just a few days ago… and I haven’t made any firmware I think is a good fit for it.
If you change the channel, does it still light up?
I’m wondering if the second linear channel is connected to the LEDs, or if it’s only the first channel and DD FET. If both are connected, it could probably use a ramp like this:
Or something like that. This is just a rough estimate.
Does that firmware need to exist?
I think Hank sets it on high mode before shipping, because it looks nicer when opening up a new light. But it’s not recommended to leave it that way, and it’s not the default. You can get back to defaults with a factory reset.
Here’s how I generally configure new lights. Basically, factory reset and then configure a few options according to personal taste.
I like to use low aux voltage mode, with a 4-second post-off voltage display (which is default now). Memory timer of 10 minutes at ramp step 2/7 or 3/7. Lowest possible moon level. Calibrated temperature and voltage. I reflash a lot, and it doesn’t take long for me to configure things afterward.
These things could be baked into personal build config files, but I try not to use modified builds because I need to make sure the default builds work.
The main emitters? No. But the lighted switch acts like they do lol. Like it thinks there’s still a channel there. The lighted switch will change from low to high brightness as you “ramp up”, do a quick flash at "top of ramp"and go from high to back to low as you “ramp down”, just like it normally would, but the whole time main emitters are off. But it’s like the switch doesn’t know that lol. Ghost channel.
I have no idea. Your call. It works like this. Ramping seem normal. Turbo seems turbo-y. But idk, you’d know more than I do. If you want me to try and test some things with it I can.
Ah, darn. I guess the other channel isn’t connected. Would be cool if it was. Then it could be regulated almost all the way up.
But I could still make a single channel stacked firmware for it. The regular KR4 (with DD FET) firmware is probably pretty close, and may only need a small change like a different pin for the switch.
With stacked power channels like that, it’s important to get the ratios right. Like, an original D4 was ~130 lm regulated + ~4000 lm on direct drive. But this D4S is probably somewhere in the ballpark of ~2000 lm regulated + ~4000 direct drive. Different ratios, so they need different ramps. Using the same visual ramp shape, the boundary between low and high “gear” is at ramp level 65/150 on the D4 here, but it would be at about 130/150 on that D4S.