M44 with UV 365nm option

Maybe he could use this boost driver with the E21A KR4.

Oh - just saw the SBT90.2 K1 listing - price is about right in my opinion.

Boost drivers with 2 amp output are relatively easy, inexpensive compared to getting higher amps. This is why the XHP35's are so commonly used. In a 4S LED configuration, same driver would restrict amps to 2 amps per LED. That isn't so bad, just not getting in the 3K to 4K lumens range. Maybe 2.5 amps per LED could be done reasonably, all depends on the parts/driver design.

So, like loneoceansā€™ lume1?

That is basically a buck driver, you do not need boosting from an LED with a VF of 2.8V-3.1V at 3A when the input voltage is 4.2V, that is buck. And at lower output currents the VF will be even lower than that. By 3V the cell is empty anyway, so all it is doing is bucking for that matter.

Also that 5mm by 2mm inductor cannot do serious boost from 3.6V boosting to 14V of an XHP35 HI at 2A, for that you need some proper sized inductor, not something that tiny.

Hank, any plans on bringing flashing kits to the US warehouse?

Iā€™m afraid there is no such plan, the US warehouse is free shipping, while the reflashing kit is too cheap to provide free shipping. For most of the orders ship from China warehouse to the US, itā€™s via special airline service (unless the order amount is too small), which take about 2~3 week to the US.

Did anyone notice this?! Unlikely because it was a short window.This is Certainly FAR from a deal breaker. :wink: Just caught me by surprise.

When the SBT90 first appeared in the drop down box it was $35. Total price for light was $114.

Five minutes later I ordered and the LED went up to $39.99! lol! Total price is $119.90. I was baffled! lol! I knew there was no shipping so I went back to drop down box and noticed the change.

I have always been curious and inquisitive,wanting to know the answers! He probably made a mistake in the first entry or decided to raise it a bit.

Either way it seems like a great light and a fair price. :sunglasses:

I ordered qty 3 of these LED's, paying $150 total, so $50 each. Cost from that source before shipping was like $35, being a wholesale cost I'm assuming, so bumping the light by $40 gives him a slim margin, if any.

When i first checked it was about 40$ higher than the regular K1
The price is more than fair, compared with an FT03 SBT, I think the K1 is more value for money than the FT03
However, I do like the smooth head of the FT03

Cleaned the contacts on my D4V2 and topped up both batteries, now the output is fairly similar between the D4 and the K4. Another odd little difference is the aux LED voltage indicatorā€¦at full charge the D4V2 starts out green then turns blue as the battery drains, but the K4 starts out purple/pink before turning blue. I wonder if this was a small change in Andruil?

It is. Recent versions of Anduril have higher resolution (and more colors) for the battery voltage indicator.

I wish it was selective between the 4 level and rainbow. Unless you get a flashing kit its near impossible to keep up with all of these changes.

You can easily get 5 flashlights with 5 different firmware revisions over a few months.

Thanks for the replies, I have the flashing kitā€¦might have to look into updating my D4V2s.

Youā€™d think, and maybe so with extremely low-Vf LEDs like the E21A, but thatā€™s not what we see in practice when testing single-cell lights with buck drivers. Theyā€™re not capable of full output when the battery is low, or even half-full. The driver itself seems to have enough voltage drop to affect things. Thereā€™s a good reason Zebralight uses buck/boost drivers on 3V LEDs.

Hereā€™s a graph of the Fenix TK25 R&B with its original 2x XP-G2, and with the lower Vf 2x 219C. Output is stable longer with the 219C, but both drop long before the cell is low.

Interestingly, Acebeamā€™s tail-e-switch triples, the TK16 and TK18 use a series emitter configuration and a boost driver. The TK16ā€™s driver is quite compact, resembling the Lume1, and does well boosting to ~9.5V. Itā€™s not trying to push 40W like the KR4 might in full FET, but I saw 140lm/W at 100lm with SST-20s.

Just ordered mine in the SBT90.2. This will be my 3rd K1, the others in w1 white and w1 green.

I look forward to getting this light. Have a feeling it will be my favorite mid sized light.

I also look forward to the members who will measure Lux/Lumen.

For SBT90 5700K which is the light that I got.

The Light lists at 4500L/420Kcd/1296m/1426yds. throw.

I am going to take a guess.

Turn on-4250 Lumens/390Kcd/1249m/1365yds throw

ANSI-3850 Lumens/355Kcd/1192m/1304 yds. throw

This is all speculation , I do not have the light yet, nor do I have equipment when it gets here. :innocent:

To me these are satisfying and realistic numbers based on my other Two CFT90/SBT90 Lights.I would not think it would be much lower than that. we will find out.

It might actually do 4500. The SB bin is the highest Iā€™ve seen so far. My guess is 4600 @ turn on, 4150 410kcd at 30s. Obviously everyones measurements will be different but weā€™ll see whoā€™s closer :laughing:

You may be right. I failed to incorporate the higher bin! lol! We will see.

I guess if 7 people measure we have to take the average! :sunglasses:

After further contemplation, I hope you are right,MORE output better! :wink:

I bought 2 X Molicel P42A On Sale for $5.99[40T-$7.25].

The P42A were manufactured on November 5, 2019. The 40T were manufactured on December 9,2018. P42A not even 6 months old, 40T are almost 17 months old.That was my main reason.

As far as performance they are very similar. 40T a little better in first part of voltage curve with HKJ comparator.Win win with either one.

Of course a big part is Proper storage. I heard 50F/10C and 50% humidity is the best.Doubtful many battery dealers do that. It would be very expensive in warm weather to keep a room 50F/10C

EDIT:Although the owner, an engineer tells me this about aging batteries

.In all of our testing that weā€™ve done, testing 1-2 year old batteries come out with the same results as 2 month old batteries. After two years the studies that have been done show you might see 0.5ā€“1 less capacity but this is within the margin of error of new cells anyway. Youā€™re talking 10-30mAh difference on a 3000mAh battery.

In old versions, the colors were:

  • > 3.8V: blue
  • 3.3V - 3.8V: green
  • 2.9V - 3.3V: red
  • < 2.9V: off

That has been updated to increase the resolution:

  • > 4.4V: white (R+G+B)
  • 4.1V - 4.4V: purple (R+B)
  • 3.9V - 4.1V: blue
  • 3.7V - 3.9V: cyan (G+B)
  • 3.5V - 3.7V: green
  • 3.3V - 3.5V: yellow (R+G)
  • 2.9V - 3.3V: red
  • < 2.9V: off

In both cases, it puts the colors in the same order as a rainbow.